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Everything posted by rbw1966
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Bantam? Do you mean "Bataan"? Nice climb Tex! Sandy Headwall was one of my more memorable Hood climbs.
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Do you work for the police department?
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The betamid only sleeps one. Look for the new improved version of the mega and beta mids. They are constructed out of a lighter fabric. Should be hitting the shelves soon.
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Its looking pretty hacked up when we left on Monday. Still better than anything I've attempted to climb around these parts. The flows manage to heal some over night but the temps during the day are pretty warm.
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No I'm not. I'm flicking you shit for spraying about your achievements. This is spray, no? You were then, and you are now, my hero. Agreed. Much like arguing over sport/trad; bolt/no-bolt. Its about as tired and worn out as. . . My mom's been dead since '92. Are you going to be in Zion around early April? I'm headed down there to do some of the easier walls.
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Rumor has it that you've "onsighted" some bad-ass routes on Mt. Hood. Pot, meet kettle.
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Beyond as in further down the trail. Genesis II was in decent condition but we didn't climb it.
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I was in Hyalite from Friday through Sunday and the conditions were a bit warm but the ice was in decent condition. Genesis I is pretty hacked up and wasn't recuperating much at night. HOwever, there was still plenty to climb on with a couple climbs having some small mixed sextions. Hangover was a blast but also saw a lot of traffic and we whined like babies on the approach. We finished out our weekend on a flow about 500 yards beyond Genesis I (I don't have a guidebook so don't know the name) that was in fabulous shape but melting out a bit due to the unduly warm temps. THe road was in great condition and just about any car should make it.
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I was in Ecuador in Jan/Feb and used my Makalus (they are grey now but were a light brown out of the box) on Cayambe, Coto, and both Illinizas. No foot problems at all. Makalus are insulated although not as extensively as the Nepals but I think we're comparing apples and oranges there. In all the climbs I've done with my Makalus I've never had a crampon pop off, but then again, I've never had a crampon pop off period. Ever. Call me lucky I suppose. I took overboots; never used them. I used VB liners though. I chose the leathers for SA because I didn't want to have to cart around two different pairs of footwear to the climbs. I'd put on my Makalus when leaving Quito and take them back off when we got back from climbing. The other folks in my group had Nepals and did the same without problem. I like the versatility and weight considerations. Your buddy who did the approach in plastics and the V4 is an anomaly but truly my hero. I know I wouldn't want to do that. Egads the shinbang. Good point about leaving behind gear at the hostels. We did this as well when we went to the beach or cloud forests. I think we'll have to agree to disagree on the leather v. plastic debate. I'm not saying plastics are not worth taking. I have plastics and like them just fine. I think its good to explore either option when considering what it is you want to do. Hell, I'm taking my Invernos with me this weekend to Montana but generally speaking, if there is a long approach I use either my leathers or my T2's if I am skiing.
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Maybe if I was in Veneta. But for a night on the town with my bon vivant I wanna look smart and sassy.
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What do you think Chris? Pumps or flats with that outfit?
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I ice climb in my T2's almost as often as my invernos. I haven't noticed a tremendous difference between the two. Then again, I am not Tomas Humar.
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You need to find a job soon. You're not doing too well as a comedienne.
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We have a rental house in Camas that is going to be available in late Feb or early March. We haven't decided whether to sell or continue renting it. 3BR/2bath/2 car garage, ranch style. Anyone interested PM me for details.
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What I want to know is how they fit three tv's in that H2.
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The problem is that neither of these idiots are actually shooting weapons at each other. Although Osama has probably come closer to shooting a weapon than Bush. Anyone remember when one of Saddam's vice presidents challenged Cheney to a duel?
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Plastics are nice on the higher mountains but when traveling in S.A. its nice to not have to lug around those clunkers. Thats why I opted for leathers while I was there, so they worked double-duty. I brought overboots as well but never felt the need for them. Aren't plastics generally more spendy then leather? I know my invernos were about 100 clams more than my makalus. I agree on the warmth factor with respect to plastics but more comfortable? My invernos are torture on approaches or lower-angled terrain--and quite a bit heavier. If all I was doing was climbing and didn't have to haul the plastics in a pack, I'd opt for the plastics but when weight and versatility is a factor I'll stick with leather. The never-ending debate between plastics and leather. Anyone try the scarpa alphas yet?
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Look who learned how to copy and paste.
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I had used one of those images for my avatar image but someone got offended. Hence my current sexy self-portraiture.
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tie-off the stakes and then bury sideways like a deadman. Stomp snow on top and 15 minutes later, presto! Solid as a rock. Since they are covered with snow they shouldn't melt out.
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Twight has corgies? What a fag.
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Someone explained to me how to get around that once but I forget. Sorry
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Save the webpage to disk and you can cut and paste.
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Trasks homepage: One man's castle