Alex

This is where I get Hilti batts... http://www.dholmes.com/hilti-accessories.htm

Sorry Wes I probably even have the PM somewhere but flat out forgot.

I've climbed it one year December 15th. We drove up to the start of the 609 road in a minivan - it had been a wet fall, and was very cold but no snow yet. I don't think I've ever seen it in in November.

What do you want to know about them? I had a pair of the original X-15s before BRS, but had BRS too. I liked the originals (only sold them a year or two ago!) but didnt like the BRS as much. You need really big hands to have them be comfortable, and using them plunging in snow doesnt work so well because it chews up the rubber at the bottom of the shaft. At the time they were cool because the rubber insulated your hand from the shaft so they were not as cold as some of the aluminum shafted tools of the time for ice climbing in really cold places like Banff where the cold just seeps out of your body. They were kind of heavy overall.

I've got an extra Ryobi gas powered drill I'll sell you but I am keeping my Hilti.

It was fun reading this thread. This place hasnt changed much in 10 years

Lots of good info in this thread. Here is my .02 I think flying doesnt save you much time, and is posibly more expensive if you factor in the rental car. I drive because taking my 4Runner lets me go into the Ghost or taking my Jetta lets me go very fast. From Seattle the southern route over I-90, then North through Sand Point ID through the Columbia Valley to Radium and up over to Castle Junction is the fastest and least stressful drive. It is 630 miles from my house in Seattle to Castle Junction, and if the roads are dry I do it in 10 hours. I used to spend my time in hostels - Rampart used to be 9$ canadian a night - but they have become very expensive lately (Louise is currently over 30$ canadian a night, per person, for a bunk in a crowded room), so unless I am up on the Icefields Parkway at Mosquito or Rampart - really nice around New Years or going for Polar Circus or Murchison - I base out of Canmore. I spent many many seasons at the Akai, but it's degraded so now I stay at Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge. Lot's of peeps swear by the Drake, but I like the Ski Lodge. Either is walking distance to Safeway and coffee shop. I spent one trip at the Canmore bunkhouse but found it overrated. I like the Rockies because there are so many different areas to explore. But there is alot of driving involved. Make sure your vehicle is road worthy. That's one characteristic of the area: alot of driving, if things are not completely fat everywhere. Where you go will depend on your climbing level, mostly. The longer, harder routes and plums are generally found along the Icefields Parkway, and in the Ghost, farther from town. The beginner areas are actually quite close to town. Always check avalanche conditions before you climb. People die every year it seems due to avalanches on route here, you must be exceptionly careful. There are bazillions of classics. The routes that stand out in my memory more than most over the last 15 years are * Murchison/But My Daddy's a Psycho in 5+ conditions. * Professors with Gene one year maybe 1999 in heavy snow, and Professors again, complete, with my wife many years later * This House of Sky in the Ghost - easy but super fun! * Polar Circus - it doesnt matter how far you go, you'll have a good time! * Bourgeau Right Hand with Gene, great day! * David Thompson country climbs, for a change of pace from the Parkway, including Elliot Left, Two Oclock Falls, 5-7-0, etc * Gibraltar Wall * Hafner is always a good time! * Stanley Headwall * Linda Ice Nine Really good mileage days String Pather Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and Snivelling Gully together back to back for 7 or 8 pitches of WI3-ish. Valley of the Birds in the Ghost Tons of other options Some climbs I don't think are worth it Johnson Canyon climbs Cascade Selenium Falls Louise if its crowded, what a zoo! Bull River Canyon unless it's been hella cold Last but not least, if the weather is decently cold allow for a several-hours soak in Radium Hot Springs on the way back South. At night, in the cold, it's really super nice. Hope that helps.

Or, you could learn how to drill a V-thread.

Horrible. So sorry to the family

Thanks for the report, Colfax looks decent!

I guess that's all opinion, as I and many of my friends have had fun at SR900 for sure.

@Farrgo - Its overhanging enough, but the rock is quite downward sloping so without a bit of ice coating plastering the walls (ie if you are doing pure drytooling) it's only mediochre climbing.

Washington and Oregon are both sadly very lacking in top-ropeable, moderate ice for beginners. The absolute BEST thing to do is to take a week-long trip to Banff during the winter, and climb at Junkyards, Hafner, and other practice areas to where you feel comfortable leading WI3. Then there are options back home....

Thanks for the stokage! The pic of Moonlight is as fat as I have ever seen. Murchison still gives me goose bumps every time I see it, love that one! Way to represent Strobach! I think the key to being happy here is to be a "PNW-based climber", which means you make regular trips to Banff, Lillooet, and other points during the times when ice is not in session within a few hours of home. Multiple trips to Banff before the new year, followed by mass AT skiing and local ice climbing, then once March rolls around shifting slowly to more skiiing, is just all goodness

Bummer to read about this. I climbed at Smith alot in the early and mid 90s and Grasslands was my home away from home, where the only thing that you had to worry about was the cows (and then later, the crowds!!). But it's been a very long time now that a day-use fee has been in place for the park/parking. 5$ for camping doesnt seem outlandish in the grand scheme of things especially with so much use. But agree, giving this administration over to a private party seems just wrong.

I am glad I am not the only one who has counted the near infinite number of switchbacks down from cascade pass....

so interesting how the stuff looks so different without mounds of snow on it.

If you are doing FAs with a bunch of loose the best option is to rap-inspect the route(s) before you kill your belayer needlessly in the name of boldness

Nice outing. Nice weather! This time of year the best option would be East Ridge or East Ridge direct, as no crampons or axe needed on the approach and (while steep) the path to the E ridge notch is straightforward. The climbing on E Ridge Direct is more difficult than West Ridge so YMMV. I did it as a 12-hour car to car trip couple years ago and it was OK that way.

Leavenworth Prime Rib-Heart of Gold Fault->Catapult>-Bone->S Face Jello Tower-> Midway on Castle Rock Yard art to W Face Peekaboo tower. Aquamarine and neighboring climbs Arms Control Bo Derek Tubbing at Der Ritterhof I liked aspects of the Bale-Kramar, kind of depends on you

Very sad to hear Dallas news. He really gave to this climbing community and will be missed.

It's supposed to be fun. When it ceases to be fun, just go do something else you enjoy doing. It can be video games. Kiteboarding. Gardening. Life is too short to agonize about changes in motivation for an activity, just go with the flow.

Dane, if you make said picks, I'd love to guinea pig them with/for you. I have BD tools. I think Rafael would say same. He has Nomics. The worst pick damage I've done is about -25C in the rockies. Broke a number in 1 pitch at Louise Falls leading the thin right side under the big roof. Was really inopportune for both to break on same pitch leading

There are fine mountain forecasting services out here, you just need to watch them closely for a window of high pressure, and be willing to fly out short notice. PNW is not Colorado: we never have predictable good weather anytime of the year except MAYBE August. Hood is a very mellow climb via South Side even in the dead of Winter, as a solo provided the weather is good and you know how to self arrest. Bring an axe, cramps, and a helmet. If the weather is not good, don't go.

have you checked second bounce/ascent? they usually have used crampons...