Alex

Horrible. So sorry to the family

Thanks for the report, Colfax looks decent!

I guess that's all opinion, as I and many of my friends have had fun at SR900 for sure.

@Farrgo - Its overhanging enough, but the rock is quite downward sloping so without a bit of ice coating plastering the walls (ie if you are doing pure drytooling) it's only mediochre climbing.

Washington and Oregon are both sadly very lacking in top-ropeable, moderate ice for beginners. The absolute BEST thing to do is to take a week-long trip to Banff during the winter, and climb at Junkyards, Hafner, and other practice areas to where you feel comfortable leading WI3. Then there are options back home....

Thanks for the stokage! The pic of Moonlight is as fat as I have ever seen. Murchison still gives me goose bumps every time I see it, love that one! Way to represent Strobach! I think the key to being happy here is to be a "PNW-based climber", which means you make regular trips to Banff, Lillooet, and other points during the times when ice is not in session within a few hours of home. Multiple trips to Banff before the new year, followed by mass AT skiing and local ice climbing, then once March rolls around shifting slowly to more skiiing, is just all goodness

Bummer to read about this. I climbed at Smith alot in the early and mid 90s and Grasslands was my home away from home, where the only thing that you had to worry about was the cows (and then later, the crowds!!). But it's been a very long time now that a day-use fee has been in place for the park/parking. 5$ for camping doesnt seem outlandish in the grand scheme of things especially with so much use. But agree, giving this administration over to a private party seems just wrong.

I am glad I am not the only one who has counted the near infinite number of switchbacks down from cascade pass....

so interesting how the stuff looks so different without mounds of snow on it.

If you are doing FAs with a bunch of loose the best option is to rap-inspect the route(s) before you kill your belayer needlessly in the name of boldness

Nice outing. Nice weather! This time of year the best option would be East Ridge or East Ridge direct, as no crampons or axe needed on the approach and (while steep) the path to the E ridge notch is straightforward. The climbing on E Ridge Direct is more difficult than West Ridge so YMMV. I did it as a 12-hour car to car trip couple years ago and it was OK that way.

Leavenworth Prime Rib-Heart of Gold Fault->Catapult>-Bone->S Face Jello Tower-> Midway on Castle Rock Yard art to W Face Peekaboo tower. Aquamarine and neighboring climbs Arms Control Bo Derek Tubbing at Der Ritterhof I liked aspects of the Bale-Kramar, kind of depends on you

Very sad to hear Dallas news. He really gave to this climbing community and will be missed.

It's supposed to be fun. When it ceases to be fun, just go do something else you enjoy doing. It can be video games. Kiteboarding. Gardening. Life is too short to agonize about changes in motivation for an activity, just go with the flow.

Dane, if you make said picks, I'd love to guinea pig them with/for you. I have BD tools. I think Rafael would say same. He has Nomics. The worst pick damage I've done is about -25C in the rockies. Broke a number in 1 pitch at Louise Falls leading the thin right side under the big roof. Was really inopportune for both to break on same pitch leading

There are fine mountain forecasting services out here, you just need to watch them closely for a window of high pressure, and be willing to fly out short notice. PNW is not Colorado: we never have predictable good weather anytime of the year except MAYBE August. Hood is a very mellow climb via South Side even in the dead of Winter, as a solo provided the weather is good and you know how to self arrest. Bring an axe, cramps, and a helmet. If the weather is not good, don't go.

I need a second one. If you've outgrown yours, please PM me.

Its a low angled rock on the trail above Sunbug, basically approaching the top of the crag. Not easy to find an anchor but served its purpose. Yes on the helmets. They usually wear their bike helmets, but there wasnt much loose rock and contrary to what the pic shows (it WAS a photo op), Mama or Dada were usually right behind the kiddies on the way up, showing them footholds and re-assuring them, etc.

What route is that up Booker? The ridge from Sahale? I've always looked at the steep N? face - the one you see from Buckner - and wondered if there was a route up it.

I never use them, but I only climb 5.10 and lower in the alpine so usually climb through.

My two little tigers got up a short slab near Mazama Fun Rock 3x laps each. It was the first time the little one had worn a harness or had been on a rope but he was a natural!

I'll give you two answers: 1) the crags jpark42 mentions are specifically developed for mixed scratching around. I like the SR900 crag outside of Issaquah best as its the closest and actually has some of the best rock, and I was the one who installed all the bolts to correct tension so I know it's bomber. 2) Most people who are serious about mixed and are Jonesing end up going to Banff for a long weekend starting mid-October through Thanksgiving.

great TR and great pics, just as I remembered it all. I had the hardest time on your p5 5.11 face pitch, it seemed pretty mid-11 to me and I just ran out of gas, and the pressure chamber proper I couldnt figure out at all on second and I ended up aiding it! Still great climb full value!

We have a number of TRs from Strobach on this site, and we even have YouTube videos posted from Oregon Field Guide some years ago, too....

no helmet?