When is your proposed trip? I've done Rainier once or twice and could be convinced to lead a rope. I also have a gear list I could send if you give me your email address. Bighurtbob@hotmail.com.
I agree Gene. It shocks me that the NPS allows its employees to solo on the glacier, a very dangerous habit. I have spent a shit load of time on glaciers but will not submit to climbing unroped, or skiing for that matter, on Rainier.
I remember once on the the upper town walls a couple were climbing Swim and the dude yelled "take" and the chick heard "slack". The resulting whipper was pretty cool to watch.
I got the feeling from reading the book that she was ashamed of making the statement about the deceased young man. I think it shows a lot of honesty that she portrays herself in such a negative light.
Also, can we stop with referring to the author as a bitch? I know some of you folks and you are better than that.