DPS

This summer I enjoyed relatively good health and opted to spend my vacation days by extending weekends so I could get to a bunch of routes that I would not normally be able to do in a weekend. Casaval Ridge - Mt Shasta NEB Goode Park Glacier Headwall - Baker Price Glacier - Mt Shuksan NEB Colchuck West Face Couloir to west ridge Stuart

One of my favorite climbs not in the Nelson guides is the NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak. Good description in Beckey guide.

I found that this pad was warm enough to use by itself at 17k on Denali:http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442094579&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302701645&bmUID=1259250455593

Very nice photos!

November just may be the worst month to attempt Rainier. Bad weather, poor snow conditions, poorly bridged crevasses. Alternative would be go somewhere warm to rock climb, like J-Tree.

I'm in. My expenses are $1,000.

About 13 years ago I had Dan McHale strip down his SARC model to make an alpine climbing pack for me. This pack used the lightest materials he had, no extra zippers, and the smallest hip belt he could come up with. What I have now is a nearly industructable pack that is about the same size as an Andinista or CCW Chaos but in my experience carries and climbs signicantly better. While it is too big for most routes in the lower 48, it works really well for Alaskan climbs. I have used it on alpine style ascents of technical routes as well as on an expedition style ascent of Denali. It was 300.00 at the time, but it is much more durable than any pack I have seen. Just my 2 cents.

A 0 degree bag is probably all you need.

Wow, that does sound like a long story. We lucked out, every rappel went smoothly.

Nope. The climb and descent went off with out a hitch. We summitted at 2:00. Hiking back under the north face on our way out we heard voices and wondered what was up. Were you up there too?

This couch climber was on Prusik peak.

Generally, the superior quality of older homes is due to superior construction practices, not a difference in materials. Let's see, what materials do my 1911 Craftsman and a modern home have in common? That would be none. Sounds like we got ourselves a tender fingered office worker who's never pounded a nail here, boys. My grandfather worked as a carpenter for over 70 years. He once said "People say they don't build 'em like they used to. Well, they built 'em like crap back then too!"

If folks are looking for cheap housing, my next door neighbor got foreclosed. The asking price is about 200,000 lower than comparable homes in the neighborhood and is priced what condos and townhomes go for. It would be cool to get a neighbor who climbs.

Mark Twight wrote in one of his books that his partner created a vbl vest by cutting the arms off of an old wind shirt and putting three coats of scotch guard water proofing agent on the back.

Word.

I have a friend coming from out of town this weekend who wants to do some climbing. Looking at the weather forecast it looks like the east side will be a bit better so we are thinking about the Enchantments. Does anybody know how much snow it got this week? I figure if there is too much snow to rock climb we can just hike up Little Annapurna, but it would be nice to know before hand if I should leave the rack/rope at home. TIA, Dan

I have a pair of Black Diamond vapor barriers that I wear with my plastic boots. It works very well, only my liner socks get wet. I think Integral Designs also makes vapor barrier socks.

Dave Bale?

Yeah, December is a splendid time to attempt that route.

I really like Black Diamond packs. They carry and climb very well for me and have proven to be fairly durable.

They are usually climbed late fall and early winter. I would expect them to come into shape after a couple of storms and some melt-freeze cycles.

Thanks Doug, My interest in doing something other than volcanoes is partially selfish as I want to do something I haven't climbed before. Dan

I have a friend coming in a few weeks from the east coast and wants to get some climbing in. I am considering the following routes: Mesachie Peak Icefall Couloir Maude Entiat Glacier Eldorado NE Face (first choice if the road is open) Can anyone comment on the quality of Mescahie or Maude routes? Can anyone suggest other routes? Will they be in late October? TIA, Dan

Good point.

Synthetic jackets are a great choice for year round in the Cascades, however, the DAS parka and similar weight parkas are overkill, except for perhaps Rainier in February. I would look into a lighter weight hooded jacket like the Patagonia Micropuff, Wild Things EP jacket and similar weighted jackets.