DPS

No, I think the modern 3-D forged front points like Cyborgs or Sarkens or G-14s would have been ideal. They seem to be pretty good for that kind of ice. I had Petzl Sarkens which were fine.

I did Price Glacier a number of years ago in late season and found many pitches of ice climbing, with 5-6 being over hanging. I would personally want full shank leather insulated boots like La Sportiva Nepal or similar and dual point crampons. The ice was fairly soft and mono points may shear in those conditions.

Hi Tim, John and I descended via the WR Couloir last weekend, and while we had little difficulties going down, I think it would be difficult to ascend, as there are two large moats. Dan

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14x/wfeature-herrington-holsten-stuart-range-linkup

Index is probably the closest good trad climbing to Seattle/Tacoma. I haven't seen many trad lines at Exit 38, however, I haven't climbed that extensively there. There are a couple good lines at 32.

Did it look about 12 years old? http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2002/forbidden.html

I thought that issue was bolts in the gulley/buttress below the WR Notch. There had been wads of slings on horns and flakes and such on the WR itself. I could not locate these and wonder if they were removed to encourage folks to descend a different way other than the climbing route.

In years past I recall the WR of Forbidden had many rappel anchors on the climbing route. We descended this route yesterday and found only three anchors, which led down the north side of the ridge. Were the old anchors removed or am I just too blind to see them?

The trail down the Cascadian becomes a bit hard to follow in the dark when it travels though meadows, but not unreasonably so. It intersects with Ingall's Creek Trail which is very obvious. From the intersection of Cascadian Couloir and ICT, you turn right/West on ICT. The turn off to Long's Pass is about half a mile on the left/South and is marked with a sign on a tree, can't remember what it says, but it is marked.

Obviously YMMV, but for me 6 hours. I've found running water near the base of the NR and small snow patches at the notch in years past (August). Again, YMMV. For me, four hours IF I nail the approach. I've done it easily over a dozen times and still manage to screw it up. The REALLY nice thing about approaching from Ingall's is the delightful descent down the Cascadian Couloir and the character building climb back up to Long's pass.

Based on recommendations from this thread I bought a pair of Prana Stretch Zion. I've only tried them on, but my impressions are they are a bit small for the size in the waist and tight in the thighs, but not unreasonably so. Otherwise they seem like a nice pair of no-nonsense, lightweight climbing trousers, plus they come with a Sean Courage feature allowing them to be rolled up to the knee and then held fast by snaps which I like, because I have bitchin calves and I want everyone to see them.

Wild Things Belay Parka is the ticket. $100 and its yours.

You are not going to get many climbing partners around here by blaspheming routes named after Fred Beckey.

Wild Things Belay Parka. Epic W/B fabric, Primaloft One insulation, as warm or warmer than any synthetic parka out there. Nice, athletic cut. As it so happens, I have one I would sell you. Size medium, blue, one small tear on the shoulder - patched with fabric from the manufacturer. I bought it specifically for AK and Rainier in the winter and other cold trips. As Jared said, overkill for most other trips around here.

Marmot in Bellevue is no longer in business.

Alex and I did this variation when we climbed the Kautz and ended up on Pt. Success, which was kind of cool as I have now been on all of the sub summits of Rainier.

I've been reading this article on the bus. Just amazing all the way around. But is it wrong that I have a crush on Carla Firey now?

Tim has been to the Bugs. I recommend the Tetons. Super classic climbs, easy access, huge variety of alpine rock climbs, great lodging at the Climber's Ranch. What's not to like?

Thanks for the responses!

What do folks like for lubricating their cams? I've heard WD40 is not recommended because it attracts dirt, but Triflow gets really gummy and I have to clean them in boiling water to restore the action. What should I be using to maintain the smooth action.

PJs will not in any circumstance allow someone they are rescuing to bring their pack. It is purely punitive although they will make some lame excuse as to throwing off the balance or some such shit.

You have to look for the pants that are marketed as J-burg proof. Those tights you wore definitely were not J'Berg proof. Those lasted all of one trip, correct?

That is disappointing to hear. I had my eye on the Ferosi pant as I just returned a pair of Patagonia Simple Guide Pants that began disintegrating after my first trip in them.

It was a treat climbing with Anastasia whose obvious love of the mountains is infectious. It is hard to feel down about poor weather when climbing with someone like her. She too, is easy. One piece alpine anchors? Not a problem. Rapping off a single nut or Bugaboo piton (after the fat guy carrying the pack raps first with an unweighted backup)? Sure thing. One of the best parts of the trip was reading the summit register. Every name in it was familiar to me. If I did not know that climber personally, then I knew their partner for that trip. I felt that inscribing my name was like joining a secret fraternity of Cascade hard men and women. The East Face variation felt like a 'classy' alternative to the true East Ridge. Very alpine feeling. A great climb with a great partner. Thanks for the good times.

If you eat at their restaurant, you will get gas at no extra cost.