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Everything posted by DPS
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It needed to be said, but I didn't want to be the one to say it.
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Totally random guess, but Silverthrone?
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[TR] I Have Fallen: A Near Death Climbing Accident
DPS replied to Josh Lewis's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Been there, done that. When you get back on your feet we can do the first dual crippled ascent of Chair Peak or something. -
Is there any particular reason why you want to climb Rainier in March? Late spring and early summer typically have much more favorable weather.
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That doesn't sound right It is not right. I misinterpreted some data compiled by our hydrologist. March typically has the heaviest rainfall, but on average Nov., Jan., and Dec. have higher accumulative rainfalls. Last year, however, March was the wettest month: http://www.seattleweatherblog.com/rain-stats/rainfall-2014/
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March is the wettest month of the year, so expect lots of precipitation and short weather windows.
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Dec 7, 2014 Gerrit and headed to Leavenworth to take a look at Hubba Hubba. We wandered around for 2 hours unable to see much of anything through the dense fog, so we headed back to the road to climb some ice we saw near the road. We ended up finding some surprisingly good, steep ice. We also noted routes forming on Careno Crag, although with the warm temperatures forecast for this week I suspect they will fall down.
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I pitched the idea of modifying a synthetic bag by removing the zipper and hood to make a bag like a Vireo to a friend who sews. She did not think it would be that hard and agreed to do it for me, but I have not found the right (read cheap enough) synthetic bag to sacrifice.
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Alex gave me a Platypus as a gift once. The first time I used it, it sprung a leak and the cap broke. I refused to use them for years until a partner convinced me to try one again. I have since used one 1 liter Platy (no hose) and one 1 liter Nalgene. The Nalgene doubles as a mug and if the Platy springs a leak I still have one serviceable container. This summer I started using a 3 liter Camelback with a hose on day climbs and overnight climbs where we do not bring a stove. In the winter I still bring two Nalgenes with cozys. I have had problems with the Camelback I use for trail running freeze in the winter.
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I remember this one awesome tech tip in Climbing magazine that suggested wrapping Nalgene bottles in black electrical tape to help melt snow. Do you remember that one Gene?
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Is there any information on what route the fellow was climbing and has his name been released?
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I've stopped in there occasionally and usually find crap, but did pick up a set of Tricams or $8.00 a piece. Kind of freaks me out that they sell used harnesses though.
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I was ice climbing last year and my partner remarked on my 'museum piece' crampons. They were first generation Grivel Rambos and I thought they were still the best crampon available until I tried his, then promptly bought a new pair.
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I'm not sure that Cathedral Gap is any more or less of a problem than the any of the other potential avy hazards on the way up to Ingraham Flats. If avy conditions in general are moderate or high on that aspect of Rainier then just getting to Cathedral Gap could be dangerous. Folks have died in avalanches at Panorama Point.
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Nice beaver.
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Hey Jake, Sorry you guys got rained out. Bummer to hear the road is gated. Did the other party have a woman amongst them? A colleague and her BF were planning on heading up. Dan
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FYI, these are currently in stock at SierraTradingPost.com. Use coupon code 'SFB112914' at checkout for 30% off ($260).
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http://gripped.com/news/leclerc-lavigne-climb-wild-thing/
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I climbed with Rob before he moved to Colorado. He was a great guy, a strong climber, and very humble. The first time we climbed together we did Liberty Ridge, at the time a big deal for me. He mentioned he enjoyed canyoneering in Utah, so I checked a book out from the library on the subject. There was an entire chapter in it about how he and Rob Roseen (see above) blew into the canyoneering community and proceeded to do the hardest descents, setting a new technical standard. We lost touch after he moved to Colorado, but I got updates from his brother who worked at Marmot. I had meant to drop him a line when he returned to Washington but never got around to it. My condolences go out to his family and friends. This had been a shitty year for the PNW climbing community.
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[TR] Mount Colfax - Cosley-Houston Route 11/16/2014
DPS replied to HHinkkala's topic in North Cascades
How do the photos of the route you have seen recently compare to the conditions during the FA? -
Any greater King Co. area better for climbers?
DPS replied to blackheart3a's topic in Climber's Board
There are quite a few folks in Issaquah who climb whom I have met through this website. I climb and ski with a couple of strong young alpinists who moved from Seattle to Issaquah and North Bend specifically for the proximity to climbing. -
Any greater King Co. area better for climbers?
DPS replied to blackheart3a's topic in Climber's Board
I like Issaquah due to its proximity to trail running, (Cougar, Tiger, Squak, Grand Ridge), rock climbing (North Bend), and accessible back country skiing, alpine rock, ice climbing and winter alpine climbing (Snoqualmie Pass). The downsides are no climbing gym in town and it is not exactly a hip place for young people. Mostly family types. -
I still have mine.. want 'em? PM sent.
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Hansel, so hot right now.