DPS

I attempted to ski around Snow Lakes in winter, but avalanche conditions were too high. We should get Juan in on this action. I honestly don't think TFT in winter would be that hard, assuming one had the right conditions. I don't think it would be any harder than the big rock routes done in winter in the Stuart Range.

TFT end of December?

Grivel had a plastic snow shoe that used a heel lever crampon style attachment system, but I don't recall it integrated with a crampon, I don't think you could wear both at the same time.

I look forward to being able to climb again, anything really. Funny, I think a lot about products for climbing and had something like these in my mind. A plastic type snow shoe that uses a crampon's attachment system. Nice to see I have good ideas. No follow through, but good ideas.

I have a standard Gore Dryloft covered down sleeping bag. I pretty much had to come to grips that I was only going be comfortable for the first night, cold and kind of miserable the second night, and after that it was just plain miserable. I found a light weight synthetic bag to have better staying power, but at significant weight and bulk penalties.

I thought a couple of guys (Ryan Laurie?) did do the TFT with skis on their backs, but I could be wrong about that. Small, plastic snow shoes would be the trick.

Hi, I have been an enthusiastic winter climber in the Cascade River valley since 2000. I do not believe the TFT has been done in winter, and I have thought about it quite a bit. I agree with Dave, the approach would be the easy part and the key would be do it early season, like in December, right after the solstice, and hope for a low snow pack. Also, bring a chain saw, come along, a shovel, a few bags of sand, chains, and a 4WD vehicle. Often trees fall and block the road and need to be removed to drive up to the trailhead, which would likely be gaited at the Elodrado Creek TH, mile 20. Yes, you can certainly use a snow machine on the road, certainly not on the approach. If there is too much snow on the road to drive to the TH, likely the TFT will be heavily corniced.

I went without insurance until I had a very serious climbing accident with very serious hospital bills. It was what largely influenced me to accept a job I disliked but had health insurance and 20 years later I am still there, largely because of the health insurance. I thought that Washington has its own health insurance, which is affordable, but might require a wait list. Apple Care or something.

I recently upgraded from Scarpa Summits and 23 year old Scarpa Invernos. My particular choices in new boots were based partially on what fit my feet the best so I hesitate to recommend particular brands. I did find Dane Burns' blog posts regarding boots on http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/ to be an invaluable resource while researching all of the new boot options.

Hmmm, might be a tight fit. My boots are a large size 9, perhaps 9 1/2. I would have thought it would be easier to give a pair of boots away, especially ones with $150 Intuition liners AND green Superfeet insoles.

What size boot do you wear? I will happily hook you up with a free pair of plastics, if they are your size. Photos here: http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/winter-clothing-boots-and-a-pack-for-sale-t81282.html

I am giving away a pair of Scarpa Invernos with Inuition liners. Size 9-9.5. They are used, but by the looks of it in considerably better shape than yours. Let me know if you are interested.

Ummm, not really. WR of Stuart involves soooo much scrambling and only 3-4 pitches of 5th class climbing. Maybe the upper NR of Stuart would be a more comparable climb. Are you planning on the Full Exum, or just the upper Exum? The lower part is harder than anything above ledge traverse that accesses the upper Exum. Nothing really harder than 5.7, but on the upper I just ran the rope out, no gear other than anchors. Another issue is that rock climbing at nearly 14k is really kind of tough. Make sure you acclimatize for a few days before getting on the Grand.

I stopped to belay in the middle of the Black Dike pitch, standing on a telephone book sized ledge with an anchor made of tiny nuts. She joined the belay, looked around, and burst out in tears. After the Complete Exum she wouldn't climb with me for the rest of the trip, so I picked up a couple of college kids at the Climber's Ranch and climbed with them.

Awesome! I dated a girl and took her up Outer Space, her first multi-pitch route and shortly after the Ccomplete Exum was her first alpine route. She broke up with me on that trip.

it's a little weird having to go through a drive through to get a beer I thought so too, however, my climbing partner appreciated the convenience.

I lost me bloody head?

Its the only Level 1 trauma center in the PNW. The next closest is SLC I think. I had a friend who nearly lost a foot in a freak accident after climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon. She was taken to Harborview for treatment rather than in nearby SLC, so that says something I guess.

Very sad. The collection of vintage Chouinard Ice tools, Greg Child's tent from his ascent of G-IV, Viesturs' down suit - all gone. I have always known someone who was working there when I would stop in. I recognized no one this time. I had wanted to to sell three garments, two that had been worn once, one still with tags. The clerk snottily replied "You say it has only been worn once, but to us it is used." They offered $0.10 on the retail dollar in store credit, no cash. I will not be back, I'll stick to Pro Mountain Sports when I need climbing gear, Jim has always done right by me.

Funny story, a couple of years ago I was ice climbing in typical (rotten) conditions at Alpental. I was putting my boots on in the parking lot when a guy ambles over from a sweet Dodge Sprinter camper conversion. He asked about ice climbing conditions and it turns out he and he girlfriend relocated to Seattle from Colorado for the winter to, get this, ice climb. He said there were so many good alpinists from Seattle that he figured the ice must be good. I told him all the good alpinists from Seattle go ice climbing in Canada, Montana, Wyoming, and Colorado because the ice here is so fickle. He said the guide book never mentioned that fact. I pointed out that the title 'Washington State Ice: The Elusive Beast' should have tipped him off.

Is Second Ascent under new ownership? I went in there for the first time in a couple of years and noticed that I did not know anyone who worked there, all the awesome climbing memorabilia is gone, they are not really interested in buying used gear, and the place looks like REI. And I mean that not in a good way.

Their food is nowhere as good as Swedish. Care about the same.

Todd, I'm going try to round up a group of folks for some gas/motel expense sharing trips. Although my primary destination is Hyalite Canyon, if it is a cold year we might hit up Lillooet. Email me if you are interested: Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com.

Lots of dirt bag camping options, but as others have said the issue of drying gear and clothing is an issue. I recall the Mile-0 motel as being very affordable, but it has been a number of years since I have climbed in Littlewet.

Seattle/Wenatchee, SLC, Boulder/Denver. I live in the Seattle area, and it seems when my climbing/BC skiing/trail running companions move, it is to either Salt Lake City or Boulder. My folks are from Denver and I have visited Denver/Boulder many times and the opportunities for rock climbing, ice climbing, and skiing are excellent. The only true alpine climbing in the contiguous U.S., however, lies in the Cascade mountains of Northern Oregon and Washington. A friend who moved from Seattle to Boulder argued that the weather in Colorado allows one to climb much more often than in Washington. Wenatchee is East of the crest and enjoys much better weather than Seattle, and is a much smaller city. FWIW, Harborview in Seattle is considered to be one of the best trauma centers in the PNW. I have spent time in an unfortunate number of hospitals in the Seattle area, and Harborview (was taken there by ambulance after electrocuting myself) is hard to beat for the sheer entertainment value. Swedish hands down has the best food. Better than Red Robin restaurant quality.