DPS

I went up to Cascade Pass this weekend to attempt an alpine route. Unfortunately, our chosen route was not in the condition we had hoped for so we spent the day climbing waterfalls. All along Cascade River Road there are a number of water falls anywhere from 1/2 to 2 miles up the road from where it is gated at mile 20 (parking lot for Eldorado approach). The particular waterfall we climbed was at about mile 21.5 up an obvious avalanche chute. The waterfall cascades over hanging slabs forming alternating vertical pillars and curtains and 60 degree thin ice slabs for 4 pitches. Belays were good and rappels went off of trees (one rock anchor rap). I saw two other waterfalls up the same drainage that would make a trip in there totally worthwhile. Temps were a bit warm and the waterfall was melting as we were climbing. Difficulty was probably a stiff WI 3 with more difficult variations available. I think access most years is easy until January, when deepening snow makes the drive up the road increasingly difficult. As it was we barely made it with a high clearance vehicle and chains (no 4WD). I am not sure if the park service ever plows the road but it is obviously maintained as several trees that had fallen across the road had been cut and removed recently. The snow that is currently falling may spell an end to easy access. However, it is just a matter of parking lower and skiing farther up the road. There is potential for perhaps 20-30 pitches of ice within a 1 1/2 hour approach from the gate.

John, I still have your pack. I would like to return it sometime. Dan

There is alpine climbing to be had. But if you are looking for sport, oops I mean waterfall climbing, you have to go to Canada.

The Yashica T4 and the Olympus Stylus Epic are both good choices. They quality point and shoot cameras that are weather proof and light weight. Cost is 150.00 and 100.00 respectively. FWIW, I would not bring an SLR on another climbing trip. Trying to focus and frame, set exposure etc, is very difficult while climbing. Its worth the weight in the hands of a talented photographer, but for me a point and shoot takes better photos with much less weight.

weather

Lhtose, Sorry to hear about your loss. Other than that, how was the play Mrs. Lincoln? Dan

On Sunday I climbed NE Buttress and saw Colin soloing the north face. He said it was in fine condition. NE Butt was ok, the weather since then should bring it into better condtion. Tried the NE Slab of the Tooth on Saturday. It did not go for us. Found 2-3 inches of rotten ice overlayed by snow. If this weather pattern persists, the conditions should improve.

I just picked up a pair of the Lowe's from Outdoor and More like an hour ago. These were top rated in the new issue of Climbing and are much more dexterous than the Black Diamond Ice Gloves. And cheaper!

Black Diamond Express screws are widely regarded as the best around. 17 cm seem to be the most usefull length. Having one or two shortys (13 cm or 10 cm) for thin ice and a long one (22 cm) for V-threads and belays are also nice to have. I have used Grivel and Smileys as well as Black Diamond and found them to be decent screws but not as nice as Black Diamonds. (The finish on my Grivel chipped and corroded quickly). The BD Express screws were much easier to place than any other in cold, hard Alaskan ice.

Try this link for Ham and Eggs: http://www.naclassics.com/climbs/moosehe/beta.htm SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 is covered in the new book, Fifty Favorite Climbs. (It was Steve House's selection.) I know that Seattle local Andreas Schmidt has done that route. You may want to contact him.

In practical terms water will never get hot enough to melt the high density polyethylene Nalgene bottles. Water boils at 100 C at sea level. Sure you can superheat water under pressure, but how one does that while out climbing is beyond me.

Black Diamond Shrike ice tools. I bought these to replace an old pair of CMs. The weight is not concentrated in the head so they lack 'punch' for waterfalls, the head is incredibly uncomfortable to grap in cane mode, the adze is ridiculously small and has a stupid shape, the rubber grip is easily damaged and the picks are not as durable as CMs.

[ 12-14-2001: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Do you mean you are leading a wallowing slog to look at a pretty mountain covered in unconsolidated snow? Or did you mean the 22nd of January?

I tried on all of the belay parkas out there; Golite's 6 Month Night, Marmot's Belay Paka, Patagonia's DAS, Lowe's. The one I liked best (and bought) is Wild Thing's Belay Parka. The cut is great, much better than the Marmot, and is more stuffable than the DAS or Golite. It is very simple and light with only the features you need; a couple of pockets and a hood big enough to fit over my lamp shade like helmet. I am most impressed with the fit and finish. At $260.00 it is the same cost as the DAS and only a little more expensive than the Marmot.

In response to EPB's post regarding moldable liners for climbing boots: the answer is yes. Intuition makes the Denali liner specifically for plastic climbing boots. Essentially a lower cut version of their ski boot liners. The price is 148.00. I have ordered a pair for my Scarpas for an upcoming Alaskan trip.

You may want to send an email to Jason Martin. As well as having done a ton of research for the upcoming ice climbing guidebook, he lived in exile on the peninsula. J_dougie@yahoo.com

I climbed the North Ridge of Pinnacle a few winters ago. There are a number of nice lines that one could take. The east and west faces looked nice too. Which ice guide is that, Dallas Kloke's?

Jon you smartypants you. Everyone knows that antibiotics do not kill bacteria. They competitvely inhibit, through one mechanism or another, the growth (cell replication) of the bacteria.

The most gacked I have ever been was doing Triple Couloirs and back out to the car, in a storm, 5 months after having spinal surgery with almost no fitness.

How often do you suggest doing pullups? Everyday? Every other day? Currently I do two weight lifting workouts a week, (pullups, bench press, triceps extensions, wrist curls, biceps curls, hamstring curl, leg press, leg extension.) Should I be doing pullups on the off days as well?(On the off days I do staremaster, situps, trailrunning, climbing, etc)

You are asking a lot from this BBS to be forgiven for ignorance. I will suggest that the NE Buttress of Chair is more likely to be in good nick than the North Face, ONCE AVY CONDITIONS SETTLE DOWN. I know that route was climbed this time last year. I feel it is a much higher quality route, with more interesting climbing and better protection than the North face.

I have never had my calves flame out on me while ice climbing. The reason? Trail running. Running hundreds of thousands of feet of elevation a year makes for strong calves. Now if only I could do a pullup... [ 11-27-2001: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

I thought the pickets would hold more than the last piece of rock pro I had-an upside down knifeblade in an expando flake that was creeping out under my body weight.

I once aided over a cornice on pickets.