DPS

I may be hard, but I found out I break pretty easily.

Are you talking about my broken bone incident on Girth Pillar or someone else's?

I can top that. A co-worker (and good friend) of mine is Alex Bertulis' son. He has great stories about growing up with Fred Beckey living in his basement and the long list of famous European climbers that would have dinner with the family when visting Seattle.

Thanks a bunch!

Thanks, is that the new ski lodge?

Can someone offer approach beta for the North Face of Shuksan. I cannot seem to make sense of the directions in Select Climbs. Where does one park and start from? Thanks

David, I have had good luck at Second Bounce. Also, my daughter who is now 13 has been wearing rock shoes since she was five. Some of her old shoes I traded in, some I still have. I would be happy to give you a pair. The pair she wore when she was six are Boreal Ninjas, in need of a resole. Let me know if you are interested and I can mail them to you or we can hook up.

Dan Larson, For an new climber you sure have a well developed attitude. Just because you climbed the Tooth and took the MTNs course don't think for a minute you know anything about climbing. Do yourself a favor and lose the 'tude, offer to do all the driving and buy the beer and maybe you will have better luck finding partners. You are at the stage of your climbing career where you don't yet realize how much you don't know.

This is not the first time I have heard this rumor, no idea if there is any truth to it.

specialed, Mtn Gear in Spokane sells a Black Diamond, 6mm, 60 meter line that works perfectly when paired with a 9.4 mm or similar lead line. (I think they advertise it as 7 mm, but is actually thinner than most 6 mm that I have used.) The cost is about $100.00. Dan

[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 06-22-2001).]

Get real Pope, Do the bolts at Exit 38 really detract from your enjoyment of the area considering the cliffs are basically road cuts and there is a major freeway, railroad and gravel quarry all within a stones throw of the place? If ever there was an 'appropriate' place for bolts, Exit 38 certainly has to be it. Public spaces are ALWAYS managed in such a way that they step on someone's toes. I would rather not see logging on public lands, but it still happens. Hell, some people feel that climbing of any kind should not be allowed on public lands, look at the Joshua Tree superintendant. The 'cost to you' of someone clipping bolts somewhere is so incredibly tiny compared to the cost of YOU living in America, using electricity, eating meat and driving cars on the rest of the world so get off of your high horse and get some perspective, Respectfully, Dan [This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 06-22-2001).]

Does anybody know if the road to Killen Creek Trail head is snow free?

I too use a 9.4 lead line coupled with a 6 mm rap line. If you have to haul or aid/jug pitches, it is more workable than half or twin ropes. I have made many rappels with this sytem and have never had any retrieval problems. The problem mentioned of rope movement sawing through slings is perhaps the biggest downside to this system. I don't know if there is any real advantage to this, but I use 6 mm cord rather than tubular webbing for the rap sling. Seems like it is more 'saw' resistant.

The great writer, Keith Mark Johnson, author of the now infamous story "Dude Boys" wrote a very funny essay entitled 'Living and Climbing Without the F-word. He addresses this very topic in that essay. Another essay entitled 'A Clockwork Brown' is also not to be missed.

Allez is the imperative form of to go in French i.e. "Go!"

How much farther/longer is Sherpa than Stuart? My understanding was you can approach either peak from Cascadian Couloir, take a left at the top for Stuart, a right for Sherpa. Perhaps I am wrong about this?

Mtn Gear in Spokane sells one made by Black Diamond for ~100.00. This is a quality line. I pair it with a 9.4 mm rope to do double rope rappels.

I did this winter. It was a 4,000 ft ribbon of ice ~WI 4+. Conditions might be different at the moment.

Aidan, The Momentum is a sport climbing harness, very little support. I tried one out and was very dissapointed. REI currently has the Blizzard on sale for 49.50, such a deal I was finally moved to replace my Chouinard harness. Dan

I would say one rope suffices for the couloir provided snow conditions are good. When we did it in June several years ago, the snow was so soft as to make downclimbing nearly impossible and we were very glad for two ropes. If fact, on our way in we met a party who tried to down climb the couloir late in the afternoon. One fellow fell head first ricocheting off of the walls and into the 'scrund. His Joe Brown helmet surely saved his life. The helmet is on display in the Marblemount ranger station. Another option is to descend the east ridge.

I agree. I used these in Alaska, layered over on top of underwear and a stretch shell when it got cold.

All five volcanoes have been climbed in five days. A former climbing ranger on Baker and guide and some friends did it a couple of years ago.

We were up on Ptarmigan as well, we must have seen you as we were skiing out. We were too slow on the approach and did not think we could make the summit and descend without getting caught in the storm. You are right about the conditions, the route looked to be in very good condition.

Goatboy, The bolt of which you speak has been there since at least 1996.