DPS

So where is this going to be? What is the address?

In reply to Catbirdseat: If you had read my equipment list, you would know that there is a large margin of safety built in. It is suitable for a multiday trip on Rainier. Carefully substituting lighter mulitfunctional items for heavier ones still leaves a margin of safety. ie, a Northface Mountain parka weighs 3 pounds. Will it keep you six times drier than a 1/2 pound Marmot Precip? Do you need a 10 pound assault tent for camping on Ingraham flats? What about taking a shovel and a bivi sack? Look at my list and tell me what gear I am leaving out that most people would take. Books, cell phone, CD player? Do these increase one's margin of safety? Courtney, I agree that most people carry too much weight, but rather than saying that's just how it is, why not offer suggestions for better, lighter gear? You stated that most people who attempt Denali for the first time have not figured out the tricks of lightweight packing. If one has not figured out how to pack for a climb, should they be attempting Denali? Maybe they should knock around a while and get their systems dialed. This reflects an attitude that has become very prevalant, that all one needs to climb is lots of 'bomber' gear and that will save their asses when when the shit hits. Lightweight gear is often cheaper than the heavy stuff. ie Betamid tent, Stubai crampons, Precip Jacket. My winter bag is a $60 REI special, weighs 2 1/4 pounds, my shell also was $60.00 and weighs 1/2 pound. The BD Ice Sack is $150.00 far cheaper than a Dana Designs. I fully agree that making oneself hard to kill is a good idea (it is my mantra when I get up at 4:30 in the morning to lift weights or do 25 mile trail runs). My point is that you are harder to kill by being fast and being fast comes from a)being fit, b)being light, and c) being strong. I think we both agree in principle. Our difference lies in the means to these goals. I believe running and lifting weights makes one stronger and faster than hiking with a heavy pack. I find it ironic that you would quote Twight yet ignore that most basic premise of his. He never suggested hiking with a heavy pack as good training. Long trail runs ("hour long flat runs gain you nothing") intervals, and weight lifting are his recipe.

I saw a couple of guys clean aiding GNS, so I suppose it is now a clean aid route.

or a group of suicidal maniacs bent on self destruction...

Cliff Bar has added a number of flavors recently, most of which I do not care for. Their Lemon Poppyseed variety, however, is very good. I still wish they would bring back the giner snap cookie though.

What I would like to know is why the news reports use 'hiker' and 'climber' interchangably. ie. 'I team of climbers on Mt Si....' 'A group of hikers on the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat....'

I had an enjoyable evening putting faces to names and swapping war stories with Wayne and emhemic. I was very flattered to be recogonized as 'the guy with the huge sausage' until I realized Allison was referring to Mattp's photo of me from a climbing trip. I am looking forward to it next week, although let's choose someplace smoke free. Your lungs will thank you.

An article in the newspaper mentioned a snow mobiler from Spokane died in an avalanche in Idaho over the weekend. His name was Kopczynski I wonder if he is related to Chris Kopczynski who climbed with John Roskelly for many years?

Leejams, I have been in a moderate storm on Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier with the Betamid. Worked very well, winds were `30 mph. I would not want to be in an all out tempest, though. I would go with a Bibler or Integral Designs for that kind of weather. Obsydian, While I agree that training needs to exceed the demands of the climb, I disagree that carrying a big pack is the way to do. Carrying a heavy pack up Si trains you to be slow. Train cardio by doing long slow distance (trail running for 1.5-4 hours) and interval training (stairs) and strength by lifting weights (espeically squats). I have seen people fail on Rainier because they could not carry their packs a few times, but this was because they did not know how to pack. More often I have seen people fail because they did not have cardiovascular endurance.

Rocksanyone: The 6/12 route is described in very good detail in Trail Running Guide to Western Washington: Over 50 great Trail Runs by Mike McQuaide. I have a photocopy of that section somewhere. I can't adequately describe the route as I have only run it once following someone else. I see that you live in Renton. I live in Issaquah, email me if you are interested in trail running, we can talk climbing at the same time. bighurtbob@hotmail.com Courtney is correct when she writes that the only way to train for a climb that requires one to carry a lot of weight is to carry a lot of weight. The thing is, I can't think of any climbs that require one to carry a lot of weight. Colin did an impressive traverse of 7 (or more) pickets summits with a sub 20 pound pack. That's bivi gear, rope, rack crampons, ice tools etc. Far more gear than one would need for any of the mountains that Rocksanyone mentioned. Leejams: Here is a list of items I would take on a non-technical overnight route on Rainier: Black Diamond Ice Pack Stubai Aluminum Crampons Grivel Air Tech Racing Axe REI Onsight harness Midweight long underwear top and bottom Lt weight Schoeller Dynamic pants, simple, no zippers or extra pockets. Marmot Precip Jacket Marmot down Sweater Primaloft mittens/gloves fleece liner gloves fleece hat Black Diamond Betamid tent, shared Feathered Friends Virio Sleeping bag blue foam pad, cut down to fit shoulders to hips, tapered. Pocket Rocket, 1 liter Pot, wire gate biner used for lifter, 1 large fuel canister 7.8 mm, 37 meter rope, shared Black Diamond Big Easy locking biners, 2, a couple of spectra slings, pulley, 4 wire gate 'biners Prussik slings Picket 2 liters of water Food.

I disagree with most of the previous posts. Training with a heavy pack trains you to be slow. The mountains you mentioned can all be climbed with a pack no heavier than 20 pounds if you pack carefully. Train by running. Here are some suggestions: Couger Mt; Wilderness Creek Trailhead on SR 900 ~4 miles south of I-90. Tiger Mt. Highpoint Way, exit 20 on I-90. There is a great route on Tiger called 6/12 summits that is 34 miles with 8,000 + feet of elevation gain. Mt Si. Nice for a quick, easy run. If you are worried about not being strong enough then lift weights twice a week. Squats, lunges, leg press can build serious muscles.

I store climbing gear in huge plastic containers I buy from Target.

I am friends with one of the missing climbers. He was a part of the crew that included Charlie Sassara, Pete Metcalf, Roman Dial, Pete Athans that were putting up hard stuff in the Alaska Range in the 1980s. I hope he is ok.

Would like to climb J-Berg Sat-Sun. Email me at bighurtbob@hotmail.com soon.

I would like to climb alpine ice routes this Saturday and Sunday. I have a route in mind but I am flexible. Please email: bighurtbob@hotmail.com

I've couloir routes some years in August and had ice on the rock climbs other years in August. I would think Black Ice, Vision Quest, Enclosure Couloir, NW Ice Couloir on the Middle would all be good candidates for this time of year.

The La Sportiva Boulders climb extremely well, but are cut narrow so my ankles 'roll' often when hiking down hill. Also they fit narrow feet best.

Actually the Betamid sleeps two very comfortably, plus all the gear.

Yes. We started up a broad, shallow gulley to the big ramp. We intended on meeting the S Face. Warm temps and poor ice conditions shut us down just short of the ramp. Nice line, though, I'll be back.

Had a go at the East face of the Tooth. The ice was thin, but it was the warm temps that shut the attempt down a pitch and a half up. The NE Slab looked very good, but for sure was likely to be similarly affected by the warm temps.

For the sake of historical accuracy I feel I should clarify the route that Nick and I climbed instead of NY Gully. We had every intention of climbing NY Gully but had a disagreement as to where the traverse to the base of the box gully began. We ended up climbing above the correct traverse and then traversed left into a gully system. The climbing was pretty easy most of the way. We climbed a steepish dihedral getting sticks in moss. We roped up to get past a steep head wall of mixed sugar snow and rock. I never knew this route had a name.

Lambone, I believe there is a temperature inversion so higher elevations would actually be warmer.

I am seeking partners for an Alaskan trip, preferably during the last two weeks of May. I am interested in attempting some technical routes including Ham and Eggs Couloir on the Moose’s Tooth, SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 and the Nettle/Quirk Route on Huntington. Objectives and time frame are flexible. I have prior Alaskan experience and am willing to take on the logistics responsibilities. If you are interested, shoot me an email. I need to firm up some plans soon. We can do some climbing around the Cascades to see if we are compatible. I live in Issaquah. Please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com. Daniel Smith

I am seeking partners for an Alaskan trip, preferably during the last two weeks of May. I am interested in attempting some technical routes including Ham and Eggs Couloir on the Moose’s Tooth, SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 and the Nettle/Quirk Route on Huntington. Objectives and time frame are flexible. I have prior Alaskan experience and am willing to take on the logistics responsibilities. If you are interested, shoot me an email. I need to firm up some plans soon. We can do some climbing around the Cascades to see if we are compatible. I live in Issaquah. Please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com. Daniel Smith

I got an ice pick from my dad one year. I think he thought he was being funny.