DPS

I'm siding with the monkey on this one.

I would like to get some pitches in after work at Exit 38. Would anyone like to join me? Email bighurtbob@hotmail.com. Thanks.

I did Boulder Glacier two weeks ago and I don't think there is anyway to climb Sherman peak without crossing a glacier. Maybe I am wrong. The Boulder/Park Cleaver is very mellow and crevasse free (and not really a glacier if you stay on the cleaver) until about 9,000 feet or so. The rock on Baker is typical vocanic choss. I would not intentionally climb on it. Consider climbing Mt Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier. Yes, it is the glacier but is very tame and would be ideal for a first time glacier plus there is a rock scramble at the top.

I second Paco's suggestion. I am a big fraidy cat when it comes to glaciers and I would not hesitate to solo the Sulphide again. The views are unbeatable.

My 10 year old niece told me I am going to hell. When I asked why she replied her dad told her so because I am a biologist and believe in evolution.

I remember Will Baker from when I lived in Tacoma. He was frequently standing outside the Top Foods soliciting signatures for his candidacy for one position or another. I spoke with him a few times and rather liked him. Very unpolititian like.

Try sending Alex a PM. He went to school in that neck of the woods.

Depends, do you like to ski and ice climb or rock climb in the winter?

Nasty, nasty, nasty.

Have you thought about using 5mm Maxim Tech Cord? Thin and light, but with a 5000lb tensile strength. 60 meters would set you back $200.00 though.

Interesting. My next door neighbor, a banker type, drives a big luxury SUV. He drives a mile to the Park and Ride, then takes the bus into Seattle from Issaquah. I was teasing him about needing an SUV and he said he writes it off as a business expense because it is a 'truck'. Think about it, why can a banker write off a luxury SUV as a business expense? When I worked as a carpenter and acutally used my truck to haul lumber and tools, I could not write it off because it was not heavy enough. Go figure.

I noticed Forest Service survey stakes and flagging on the trail indicating where the trail would be rebuilt in places. I did not find the trail to be particualarly unpleasant, I just felt bad tampling the wet land and heather meadows.

I was just on Baker last weekend on the Boulder/Park Cleaver route. We talked with some folks who came up the Easton and said it was in good shape. Some dude on this board reported that he did it in 9 hours round trip. The ascent and descent are the same for the Easton. Baker is heavily glaciated and I recommend roping up and carrying crevase rescue gear (picket/pulley/prusiks). Crampons/axe are bascially a neccessity. Whatever clothing you wore on Adams would be appropriate. Last weekend it was so warm I wore only a windshirt over my t-shirt, light Schoeller pants with no insulation on my legs, no gloves and a baseball cap to keep the sun off. Start early, that side of the mountain ges direct sunlight all day and the snow turns to crap. I would say plan to be on the glacier by 4:00 or 5:00 am so you top out by or 9:00 and be down off the glacier by noon.

Is that why you are so nasty to people?

THAT is funny!

During the last few years I have come to think of myself as a has been. Upon further introspection I have come to the realization that I have been flattering myself and that I am not so much a has been as a never was. Nevertheless, trips to beautiful places with great old friends are just as rewarding as they always have been. These trips may not induce the same neural buzz that climbing a big, hard Alaskan peak does, but provide a feeling that I know I can find for many years to come.

You will enjoy it, especially the delightfully direct approach hike. Switch backs, we don't need no stinking switchbacks.

Not only are there pics, but Alex made a movie as well and I bet I don't get left on the cutting room floor like some people would do. Alex's reference to a steel headed axe is warranted. He led a very steep, exposed pitch out of a crevasse using a light weight aluminum headed trekking axe. My thought at the time - better him than me.

I think you need a vacation, you are starting to take your work home with you

I have done east ridge in October. I think what JoshK meant was the East Ridge is a rocky spine with snow slow slopes next to it. The summitsnow ridge where everyone gets their photos taken is snow all year around, no rock.

Have you tried Metzger or REI?

I don't think Index is sandbagged and is in line with older rating at Squamish and Leavenworth. Look at Saber, at 5.4 is harder than the 5.6 on Great Northern Slab IMO.

Alan Kearny is certainly deserving. Thinking outside the box, what about Bryan Burdo? Pete Doorish? Jim Yoder?

That seems like a very reasonable time, I have done in 1.5 hours with a light pack and I am no Ed Viestures.

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