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Everything posted by DPS
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September is a wonderful time to climb in the Cascades, actually it is my favorite month! The only issue is that the glaciers will be more broken up and will require some route finding, but the standard routes on Baker, Shuksan, and Glacier should still be fine. (The other peaks you mentioned do not involve glacier travel.) I have climbed with a number of folks who got their start by taking an AAI course, any they spoke very highly of the guide service and their experience. I don't think you can go wrong with AAI.
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I believe there are routes on Camelback mountain, however, the rock is really not that inspiring. I would recommend Pinnancle Peak on the north end of town. For not too far of a drive you get Joshua Tree-like granite with some pretty nice formations.
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Oleg, He sounds just like my daughter, maybe the two should meet.
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I think it depends to some degree on the manufacturer of the bag as well. a Feathered Friends or Western Mountaineering bag rated to -10 might be warm enough where as a lower quality bag rated to -20 or colder might not be warm enough. My FF bag rated to -15 kept me warm enough at high camp. Jason Martin said it had been getting down to -35 at night.
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Is that an invitation?
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Thanks, photos aquired.
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I am looking for some good, up close photos of the NF of Argonaut in winter-like conditions. If you have such a photo can you email it to me or post it? Thanks. Dan bighurtbob@hotmail.com
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Free La Sportiva Synchros, size 39. Needs resole but otherwise in good condition. Pick up in Issaquah. Please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com if interested.
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Half of the pairs of the shoes that you see in the photo belong to my wife. The old shoes I can't throw out are in a box
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The crux was getting up the gumption to clean out the truck load of crap that was in my garage before I could start on the project.
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Climb: Home Depot-New gear storage Date of Climb: 1/1/2006 Trip Report: My current method of storing my climbing gear left something to be desired. Any time I packed for a trip I would have to paw through a bunch of plastic bins looking for what I needed. Inspired by a photo on this bbs, I decided to create a gear wall to store my climbing crap. With my father in law in tow I headed to my local Home Depot where I picked up the necessary gear: 4 x 8 sheet of peg board, 3- 1" x 2" x 8' pieces of lumber, 1" and 2 1/2" screws, 15 long hangers and a bag of assorted hooks. Total cost $35 I created a frame by srewing the 1 x 2s to the back of the peg board around the perimeter with 1" screws. Then I screwed the peg board to the wall about 3 feet off the ground with 2 1'2" screws. It was helpful having a second pair of hands to hold the peg board in position while I attached it to the wall. The fun part was artfully arranging the various hooks and hangers and hanging up the gear. The result is a neat looking display of my most used climbing gear. Photos to follow. Gear Notes: Screws, drill motor with screw driver attachment, compound miter saw, level. Approach Notes: Full sized truck recommended to fit 4 x 8 sheet of peg board.
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Anytime between July 5th and late August will give you the best chances of having good weather while still having decent snow bridges across the crevasses. If I were to do this route I would plan on mid July.
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[quoteI'll have to look into the SW Ridge, Dan, though I was trying to stick to the Northern aspect, as what I've derived is that much less time is spent approaching, and more time climbing, from that side. You fly right to the base of the route onto the Thunder Glacier. It is actually a shorter approach than you would do for the Norther Routes.
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I would listen to Joe. He knows his stuff when it comes to Alaska.
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What about the SW Ridge? It offers good, varied climbing. The down side is it does not top out on the true summit. And the initial couloir is prone to avalanching after a storm.
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Good points Cobra_Commander.
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Griz, I believe you are referring to what folks in the Web biz call 'meta tags'. These go in the <head> section at the top of your Web page. You will have to look at the source code to view this, or Dreamweaver might have a wysiwyg editor for meta tags. Below is a sample header from a Web page I built for work to give you an idea. You will notice there are a couple of types of meta tags, one of key words that are basically words one might type into google, the other is a descriptive sentence or two that describes the content of the Web page. <head> <title>Streams Water Quality Data, King County, Washington</title> <meta content="streams, bacteria, pollution, fecal coliform,temperature,wria 8, wria 9, turbidity,total suspended solids,nutrients,total phosphorus,total nitrogen,pH, dissolved oxygen,king county" name="keywords"> <meta content="Streams monitoring data in King County streams, Washington State" name="description"> <meta content="daniel.smith@metrokc.gov" name="author"> <meta content="http://dnr.metrokc.gov/wlr/waterres/streamdata/index.htm" name="URL"> </head> For a page of photos of the Wind Rivers, I might put something like the following: <meta content="photos,images,wind rivers,range,mountains,wyoming,warbonnet,wolfs head,pingora,rock climbing,mountain climbing,climbing" name="keywords"> <meta content="Photos of climbing in the Wind River Range of Wyoming" name="description"> I also recall hearing that Google looks at page headers and titles in its search algorythm, so having a descriptive page header is helpful. i.e. 'Griz's Home Page' would not rank as high as 'Photos and stories of mountain climbing in the Wind River Range in Wyoming.' Hope that helps.
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Why is it I remember the routes and mountains I have failed on more than the one's I have succeded in climbing? Anyone else like this?
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Hi Oleg, We did indeed try to climb it in winter, late December of 2000. I have been into cascade pass 7 times in the winter and have yet to see the route in as good of condition as it was when we tried it in 2000. The route has either been very dry, or buried in snow. We failed for several reasons: The stove was not working, I woke up sick with a sore throat, and we realized we would need at least 3 days to climb and descend and had only 2. It was a bitter failure because the climbing was so very, very good and I believe would have been the second winter ascent of the route. I raved about the quality of the climbing to Colin who later went on to climb it in very challenging conditions in the winter. We actually descend over the water falls to the left of the magenta line. It would have been an even better start, but we did not see it in the early morning light.
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Five years ago I climbed a line that roughly followed the magenta line to the snow patch above the green circle. It was really excellent climbing.
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I am embarassed to admit how long I have been climbing given how shitty I am at it.
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Old single stem style. The type they stopped making last year.
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I am looking for the gold, #2. Thanks for checking.