dbb

I'll say, here's a picture a friend sent me: that is so suck!!

Scott! I did not install that website-light-switch so that you can have light switch rave!!!

Ahh, demonstrating the various ways to make nature's toilet bowl. .. and I'll hold any dirty socks comments for necro.

Fred's 'witch doctor' route is in the middle of this picture on the buttress, and our route is about 400 ft. left of that.

One thing I forgot to mention is that any freeclimbing above 5.7 can be done as C1...

This summer Yos (Mike) and I put up a new route on the far left side of the Witch Doctor wall in Darrington. It was a lot of work, but a lot of fun too. Full Details Here Many thanks to David Whitelaw for keying us in to the feature. He, Chris Greyell and Mark Hannah put up a new route this year just to the right called Solaris (IV 5.10b A2+). Both routes will be featured in the new guidebook to Darrington Rock that's coming out in a few weeks.

Is there any fee for entering the comp? Also, do we use their crampons and tools, or our own? I know they generally use their own modded stuff, but is it the same for the competetion? ... and Jens, could you give the rest of us a sporting chance and hack off one of your arms???

not technically last weekend, but my last trip: unfortunately, we didn't get too much farther..

i would like to see you boulder it. or better yet solo the m9 with your tools and poons?!! changes things eh? I agree, if you'd seen it (or watched someone climb it), it is as burly a 'route' as any sport route around these parts... The rap wall is pretty neat... and if nothing else, good for a pump. The M7s (next to Guru) CascadeClimber on the right hand one:

Krate Crack - .10a, popular handcrack Let's Face It - .10b, fun sport route on Red Wall Where ever I may Roam - .9, Pretty good climbing, just bring on the nubbins!

The guide, the guide, the guide.. if it weren't summer it would've been out months ago! Seriously though, it is about 98% complete. It will be published on a CD and be usable by both PCs and MACs. There will also be a PDF version of the entire guide on the CD so that you can print it out. Good for carrying to the crags and good for those that don't want to look at a computer. Rock on!

Don't you mean one of these??

"Posts: 2", Welcome to the wealth of usefull posts on cc.com Drive over 90 to Cle Ellum, and take 97 over Blewit pass up to highway 2. go back West into town. Take a left on Icicle Creek road, and this will take you to the climbing in Icicle creek canyon. Alternatively, continue West on HW2 until you reach Castle Rock on the right, a couple miles outside of town. The crags are everywhere and obvious in the canyon, but a guidebook would be most helpfull. Also check the web for info on Snow Creek Wall routes like Outer Space, Orbit, Hyperspace, etc... There are a couple shops in Leavenworth that have climbing gear/books. Have fun! Dave

Actually, most of the gear is Fixe ring anchors, or the nice ring-chain setups. Also, that is some serious misinformation about the raps being 25m apart (at least in the Bugs) as most are more like 35-50 m apart. The one notable exception to this would be the Kain route on Bugaboo.

For my own personal sanity I'm just going to believe that you are trolling. I've seen this happen at Marble Canyon in BC. It's total bullshit, but some guides can be so audacious...

Another threat to index: Some hardman has taken a shit in the easy approach chimney to the GNS. All I can say is I wonder how funny they would think it was if someone filled Thin fingers with shit. Maybe they could change the name to "brown fingers" too. But back to the topic, Jens is right, these are serious impairments to accessability for all users. Is there some higher authority in the parks dept. that can be harrassed? I suppose I wouldn't mind paying a fee to have a guy with a gun shoot at the x38 bandits...

Does anyone have an older wooden shaft pin hammer or northwall hammer lying around that they'd be willing to sell? Email at: dbb [at] u.washington.edu or PM me.. Thanks Dave

Beware the cry of the Mud Falcon!!!!

he's got you there eric I agree though, leave the bolts. That TCU placement before the 1st bolt (the one in the little cracks of the overlap) was pretty manky IMO. If someone does pull them, give Matt and Mark their hangers back... those guys spend enough already putting up quality hardware in d-town.

Dryad- I assume that you're carrying a single line and a 1/2 rope, right? I've tried both methods, (trailing the other and having the leader pull it up after each lead) vs (leading double rope technique w/ more than just 1/2 ropes), and used them both on the West Buttress of Exfo. (which I assume is why you asked) I'd say that the leader pulling up the "trail" rope can be problematic from it hanging up on flakes and trees and whatnot. However, it is easier rope management wise. Still, I'd prefer to use both in the belay system. (This might be a bit heavy for the leader w/ two fat 11mms though) I like the extra redundancy, the option to use double rope technique, as well as one less step to do before the second starts moving. On strait up stuff, just clip the single line and go, but on pitches like the west butt's 3rd pitch, you go way left off the belay and then back right, so it makes sense to use doubles to reduce the drag.

That's right, there are two gas range tops run by a propane tank, so no need for a stove if you stay in the hut. You can also pay for the hut by credit card, so no need to carry exact change. See ya there!

Microwaves? At least not last September they didn't. However, it *may just be possible* to boil water on one of the 8 propane stove top burners in the hut..

Thanks Wayne... Just glad you guys had fun and knocked that thing off thing, I got some good ridge climbing in that weekend anyhow. Nice freakin work!

I agree, in general people should go to the top of the dome. I did on my first trip up there and it adds ~2 pitches of nice slab climbing which, along with summitting, makes the overall climb have a different and more alpine feel. The West Slabs descent was great (relatively speaking), especially with Westward Ho's anchors, and like you say, it puts you right back at your packs. Our lame excuse? We bailed off early due to the late start... hopefully my womanhood is still intact

We actually had a good climb in the hot sun, but started after the "rain delay" around 1:30! Pretty neat to watch all that water evaporate in ~30 minutes, but it probably wasn't so neat for you guys. The crux pitch felt really different in its post-flake state. Thanks to whoever excavated the corner and added the bolts to that pitch. We rapped off from the terrace the same way catbirdseat did. Seems like some wacky old route went up there? I noticed several 1/4" bolts, including a ladder coming in and exiting the only hanging rap. Anyone know what that used to be? Regardless, it made for a pretty easy way off on mostly 2 and 3 3/8" bolted anchors. Jacobs ladder may be a nicer way down though, because I assume it has chained anchors (?), where as this was all webbing (thanks catbirdseat) and single rap rings. Exfoliation dome !