Matt

Canary is a great climb for the grade. The beginning of the 2nd pitch is very "heady" and make you think twice before stepping out. Love it! Something worth doing again and again! I think that would be a 5.8 anywhere, not just 11worth. Once I sat at the 2nd belay and watched some guy try the exit moves on the 1st pitch 3 times! Each time he'd sneak a peak of the ledge, totally miss the bomber holds, grease back and fall on that piton. Yowza! I'd hate to pull that pin out!

"He who makes a beast of himself gets rid of the pain of being a man." Nice trip report Will. Too bad things didn't go as planned. Thanks for the funkness, I'll get you back soon.

I want the skis.

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: I would be happy to drink in T Town tomorrow and the eastside next tuesday. How's that for a plan? I concur.

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: Went up from Paradise on Memorial Day weekend in '99. The whole first day, about as far as you could see in front of you and behind you was a string of climbers. Sucked. Sounds like Mount Fuji. When I climbed Fuji-san I could touch the pack of the person in front of me as could the person behind me touch my pack. Thousands of people in a line like ants-- it was like nothing I've ever experienced in the mountains.

quote: Originally posted by klenke: Incidentally, the highest peak in the "former" U.S.S.R. was Pik Kommunizma at 24,590 ft (7495 m) in the current Tajikistan. Just thought you'd like to know they changed the name of the mountain to Pik Imeni Ismail Samani. The Tajik leaders felt the name "Communism Peak" was behind the times.

I have a Metolius gear rack which has 4 segmented loops, just like the gear loops on most harnesses. I really like it because it allows me to sort my gear into groups i.e. draws, nuts, small cams, big cams, just like on my harness. The segmented loops keep everything from mushing together as it would if clipped to a plain gear sling or piece of webbing. I hear if you have two Metolius gear racks you can fix them together to make one big wall rack. Has anyone tried this? How does it compare to a real big wall rack/chest harness with multiple gear loops on each side?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: using my advance japanese reading skills i deduce that this one is saying "Freshiez!!!" If you really want to know, the Japanese blob is saying something like, "Please push [your lips] on me," or something to that effect. It would sound like, "Oshi de!" The verb is to push-- oshimasu. I recognize the character, but have never heard it used as the marshmellow is using it. Must be some cute way of saying, "take me now, I'm yours." I also might interpret it as "pucker up" or "lay a freshie on me." Wadayathink? Anyone else know?

Yes yes I agree. Missed an early morning meeting with one friend and ended up driving to Index alone intending to do some solo aiding. Who do I run into? First guy I see is AlpineK and he tells me he's climbing with ChucK. Then I run into Erik and his motley crew. Awesome climbing. Princely Ambitions - Godzilla - Thin Fingers -All good! I want more!! And yes it's true malt liquor makes you climb sicker!

AWESOME!!!!

quote: Originally posted by miker: Rat Rock was cool with about 6 or 7 climbers hanging out and talking about the "east coast" scene and the Gunks and how it is way harder than anyplace else in the country due to sketchy pro and hard ratings and exposure. Anybody agree with that? No this is not true unless you are a sport climber. There is a very traditional ethic at the Gunks so you have to be good with natural protection in unconventional ways (lots of horizontal seams), but I do not think it is harder. They might feel this way because there are several interesting climbs that are only 5.6. At most areas a 5.6 route isn't worth climbing by most standards, but at the Gunks there are big roofs and inspiring moves on easy climbs. If you can leave 5.10 at Index then you can lead 5.10 at the Gunks.

I recommend you buy a set of Smiley's Wedgies Nuts-- they have been on sale at REI-Outlet for a long time. Nuts are by far the most important piece of protection you will use. There are several Black Diamond Hexes on sale there as well. These are also very useful. It takes skill and intelligence to set up a belay with natural protection, but it is an essential skill and will start you on your way to a leading rack. I agree with Erik that when starting a rack it is preferable to have MORE biners (cheap D's or Ovals) than a few NICE biners (expensive locking or wire gate). Go for volume-- get as many as you can. Bare essentials I'd say 5-10 biners plus two lockers. Buy a cordalette: 20 - 40 feet of 6-7mm cord, tied in a loop ( with a double fisherman's knot). This is very useful for building anchors. Do you have a rope? You will abuse your first rope so get something thick (10-11 mm). With respect to the recent accident report, I have to recommend you buy a helmet. This protects you from falling loose rock as well as the inadvertent knock on you mellon. When I was 17 I taught myself how to climb. I read books and then tried it out in the field. I constantly harrassed other climbers bugging them to check my anchors, etc. to confirm the safety of my system. My friends and I bribed experienced climbers with libations to get them to teach us what they knew, but there is nothing compared to going out and figuring shit out on your own. Climbing is dangerous. If you are stupid or have poor common sense then don't try to teach yourself. If however, you have a good mellon then by all means learn in small steps, constantly check your knots, harness, gear, and have fun.

quote: Originally posted by mtnrgr: Agian, I say were the hell is this place? I'm sorry, but I don't anywhere in WA well. I have to look on a map to find Ballard or Auburn. I make an honest effort to show, but 0600 PT is not condusive to late night drinking. Someone please use one of those mappy things or write down directions. Thanks Mtnrgr-- I suggest using http://seattle.citysearch.com/ to locate restaurants, pubs, whatever. It's easy to search, just about every place you can think of for an evening out is listed and it gives you both criticisms of the place and directions to get there.

quote: Originally posted by philfort: There is some ice. Photo taken last weekend in the Cascades: Cool photo Phil. This website needs more photos, less bs.

I have nothing to add to this conversation-- just thought it would be cool to have all the Matts on this site in one thread.

quote: Originally posted by dan e: All this talk of friction is getting me jazzed to climb at Static Point again this season! Any word on access to Static Point?

quote: Originally posted by JayB: . . . giant backward steps were the way to go. So here's the question: Anyone out there ever tried this or know anyone who has? Done it. Usually I'll slide a bit, then take backward steps until the rope catches. It's better than riding out the fall on my tips and prematurely wearing out the tips of my climbing shoes. You have to pay attention and "step" as fast as gravity pulls you down or you'll end up catching a heel, falling head first and sliding on your back, and that's no good.

I hitch hike and pick up hitch hikers all the time in mountain passes. When somebody is carrying a pack/skis/snowboard I am less likely to think they are some psycho killer and more likely to pick them up. I agree with special ned-- pick up hitch hikers and when you are in need others will pick you up. I understand when single women do not what to pick me up, but guys in trucks/SUVs have no excuse unless you're on the outskirts of Walla Walla, Washington or some other town with a State Pen. The best week of skiing I ever had was during one spring break in college I spent camped out in Berthed Pass, CO. We camped near the top, hiked and skied all week, skiing down low on both sides of the pass and hitching back to the top. It was never more than 1/2 hour skin to the top and we skied a lot. However, I agree if said hitch hiker is less than one mile from where he is going he should walk. Anything more than a mile and I think it's okay. Some downhillers are afraid of a little honest exercise. This past weekend I found myself a few miles east of Stevens and my partner and I hitched up to the top. We waited less than 5 minutes for a ride. I think the guy was stoned because when he dropped us off he started to drive off with our skis in the back of his truck. Whatever. Beggers can't be choosers.

No way could the slope be 75 degrees. They have to be able to groom the slopes and run a cat on them. On 75 degree slopes they would have to belay the course setters from one gate to the next. There's no way anyone could ride a cat up or down 75 degree slopes.

I do not recommend the Komperdell Avy Probe-cum-ski pole. I bought mine from Sierra Trading Post thinking I was getting a good deal, but instead they caused me nothing but trouble. I think the Black Diamond flick-lock poles are the best.

Saturday February 9, 2002 I skied Heather Ridge. Heather Ridge is directly opposite of the Stevens Pass Ski Area on Hiway 2. Once on top, we dug a pit and conducted a R-block test which indicated a very stable snow pack. We found an undetectable weakness about a foot below the surface, but I had to jump up and down to get it to break and judged the conditions to be very good. We first skied up to Skyline Lake and descended a creekbed to the northeast. The snow was terrific and the slopes were very gentle. Maybe knee depp powder. My partner is new to backcountry telemark skiing and the tour was well suited to his first venture into the challenges of powder and "out of bounds" skiing. I recommend this tour to new or inexperienced skiers/snowboarders. I noticed many snowboarders on the inital approach or the ridge ruining the ski track by walking in it with their boots, but in the afternoon is was windy and the trail was blown hard. The south side of the ridge, that which faces the ski area, was crowded in the afternoon when we went back up for our second ski, but the back side (north side) was empty of people and very beautiful. Blue skies and untracked slopes kept our attention all day. Another skier I met told me, "These are Colorado conditions!" I couldn't agree more. [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: Matt ]

no sky can I seenor earth underneath my feetbut still snowflakes fall the woods are silentears ringing with my heartbeatrest, then ski some more

For those of you who don't know where Big Chief is, it's north east from Tyee-Mill Creek saddle at Stevens Pass ski area. If you want a guide it is described in Rainer Burgdorfer's book "100 Classic Backcountry Ski and Snowboard Routes in Washington." The peak tops out at 5,858 feet. There were some really interesting cornices on the ridge, but nothing that really worried me. To answer your question we did not dig a pit, but felt the new snow was thick and well consolidated. It was ego building snow all the way down. An interesting thing occurred to both my partner and me. While skiing down the eastern slopes of Big Chief we were abducted by aliens . It happenned while were skiing in the glades. My partner and I both felt like we had "lost time" when we emerged from the trees at the bottom and we had an overwhelming feeling that abduction is the explanation. I would not have said anything but he felt it too. The strange part is, my knee was hurting me from a two week old injury and at the end of the day it felt better than when I woke up that morning. I think the aliens healed my knee. When skiing the north ridge, we started our descent in a narrow steep gulley, but it quickly opened up into glades. We found beautiful open spaces connected by brief intervals of trees. There were a few tight sections down low where it was necessary to just point your tips down and go. Usually I found an open area on the other side where I could check my speed. Because of the deep powder it was easy to slow down. From where we skied, once we started our descent off the ridge the slopes were steep and consistant all the way to the road; it never flattened out. It was only on the ridgeline traverse when my partner wished he could trade he snowboard for my tele gear. Goggles were nice when they weren't fogged up and if I owned one of those new age ski helmets I might want to bring it along. A tough coat would be essential but even more important would be a waterproof coat. It was wet, snow was consistantly up to my waist. Bring the fattest skis you have and be prepared for steep glades. Of course, bring your avalanche transceiver, shovel, skins and anything else you normaly bring along on a hike up a mountain. I don't think this is a place where 50 feet of flagging tape could substitute for a beacon. You couldn't ski down without wrapping the tape up in the trees. [ 02-08-2002: Message edited by: Matt ]

What do y'all think about replacing the bolts with glue in eye bolts. They can't be stolen, but if someone gets it into their head to pull them out the result can be an ugly mess. Personally, I'm in the Dick Cilley pool of top ropers (not that I can climb anywhere near his level, only that I love the tr).

Yesterday I skied the North Ridge of Big Chief Mountain. It was amazing— best snow I’ve skied all year. We skied several bowls on the East Face that were untracked, but they paled in comparison to the northern side of the mountain. I'd say it had twice the powder I saw anywhere else. The north ridge had over three feet of powder for I’d say 2000 feet. Avalanche danger was moderate. I cut one slab while skiing a steep section and there was a lot of sluffing but no sign of avalanches. We ended up on the hiway a little less than a mile east of the pass. Several skiers were trying to hitchhike back to the parking lot but we huffed it by our own tired dogs. I highly recommend Big Chief Mountain as a backcountry tour. Of note, there is a cool little shack that some skiers built on the ridge, maybe 8' x8'. There are also some cool snow caves to hang out in. BTW, I recommend snow boarders attempting this trip bring snowshoes, especially for the ridgeline traverse. If you don't have snowshoes, maybe this isn't the right ski tour for you.