Matt

I went to the protest to paticipate in the American tradition of civil disobedience. Handed out flyers and such. In general, people were pretty friendly. Some didn't want to hear from us, while others were excited that we were out there. Slothrop, maybe your girlfriend came by after 1? Anyway, If I were her I wouldn't admit to going to REI on a sunny Saturday only to shop. Why didn't she join us? Hey trask, aka Larry the Tool, I think your avatar sucks.

Protest the Fee Demo Program on Satuday June 15th (that's in two days!!). Please set aside this one Saturday of the summer and let your voice be heard!

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: ...the route with the bolt in the overhang between the double cracks. Does anyone else wonder what that bolt is for? Has anyone else even climbed this route? Am I missing some thing or is this a stupid bolt? I think I have climbed this route before the bolt was placed. If I remember correctly it was hard and wet and we stood on a log balanced in the snow to get past the hard wet part... does that count as climbing? [ 06-13-2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: Matt ]

A comment I overheard this past weekend: "Tim, I had a dream about you. You had four children!"-- thelawgoddess Now I don't know how many children in how many states TimL has, but I say, spread the seed son and soon there will be burly climbers everywhere!!! Rock on TimL!!!

quote: Originally posted by Self propelled: A break from Forest Service fees, dog control, over consumption and traffic jams will also be a welcome change. I hope you are not disappointed, but there are many "trekking fees," traffic jams, and from my experience, dog control is implemented with a shot gun (too many stray dogs). Regardless, it will be an adventure! Good luck and namaste!

I wouldn't listen to ChucK-- he's a trickster, but if Master Beta Mattp says go for it then go for it. That pic just about sums it up. Maybe, as ChucK says that snow above the GGB doesn't drip on Dreamer.

As of last Sunday there was a lot of snow on top. I'd say wait a few weeks.

Erik-- Call me.

Too bad you can't take your 4Runner with you to Nepal. Instead I imagine you'll be sitting on the roof of some bus, watching the Himalayas go by, always ready to jump off the bus and onto the road if the bus happens to go over... Great car. I think Dru is jealous b/c he knows a 4Runner can go where his Subaru won't!

quote: Originally posted by AllYouCanEat: Get the heaviest, biggest ones you can find, like the old foot fangs. Plus the toe is all you need. With that you don't need crampons... LIsten to AllYouCanEat. I too use an old pair of footfangs on my Scarpa T1s. They keep my boot from flexing and I know they won't break.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: The film clips are fun and with a CD (as opposed to a download), there will be plenty of room for frivolity. I don't think he intends them to be much more than entertaining, but they could certainly be that -- imagine, an endlessly repeating loop of Ray on the 420th pitch, that includes a virus such that it fires up on your workstation every day at 4:20. The CD and all it's frivolity sounds like fun, but personally I would prefer a quick download because, if, for instance, I had never been to Darrington and Friday night I decided to climb there the next day, I could log onto the internet, key in my AmEx number and boom-- 30 seconds later I have my guide for tomorrow. No waiting around for a CD to come in the mail. No need for a CD-ROM. I like the instant gratification of a download. I would also think this would be less hassle for Dave-- no need to burn CDs and mail them to people. With a PDF download he could just set up the website and watch the money come rolling in-- no need for capital investment. Just a suggestion. Then again, if Dave wants to package a climbing guide with a free back country porno with Caveman as a star, well maybe there's a market for that kind of thing? I really couldn't say...

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Tell Dave to bring his camera this weekend. Doe Total Soul have 420 pitches I guess I'll find out It depends on how high you can climb.

Take an over the counter antihistamine (sp?) to control the itch and use calamine lotion (the pink stuff) to dry the blisters out. I used to have a hard yellow bar of soap to wash with to clean the oils off, but once you have it, you have it. Murphy's law would suggest in the next couple of days you will meet a really hot chick. She will be attracted to you, but at the same time, disgusted by your oozing blisters.

Dave, An E-guide is a great idea. I recently used Chris McNamara's "Road to Astroman," which can only be bought online and downloaded as a PDF file. Very cool. The guide has great detail and the convenience of being a download was nice-- even nicer because one of my partners paid for it and printed it. The pages fit nicely into a three ring binder and whatever climb we were doing that day was easily removed and folded up in our pocket. I suggest you look at the guides that Chris Mac is publishing and try to replicate his model. I think his website is www.supertopo.com . I don't know how useful video would be, unless you can play it on a Palm or an iPod and anyway who wants to bring a PDA with them into the wilderness. Look forward to seeing the guide!

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Half of PubClub was there. We should have hooked up for the "19th pitch." Next time... Nice pictures Mattp! When do we see the mini guide to Darrington published in Rock & Ice? Oh, that's right. All the climbs in Darrington have horrendous approaches, wet mossy run out slabs and continually exfoliating flakes. Who wants to climb on that?

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by Matt: For all you single climber chicas out there, I suggest you snatch up this ropegun while you can! He's available ladies! yeah, but will he haul my stuff for me? and - more importantly - is he cute? Law Goddess, If he is leading and you are following then I believe you are responsible for carrying the pack, if there is a pack between you. Hauling? I believe the term you are looking for is schlep. You will have to ask Tim yourself whether or not he will schlep your gear. My guess is Tim's willingness to schlep is dependent on whether or not you're cute.

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/squirecw/sqmid.jpg http://www.cands.net/ You really gotta wonder what's in there. [ 05-31-2002, 01:21 PM: Message edited by: Matt ]

Be sure to bring rap rings and webbing.

Tim-- Wish I could climb with you, but I already have plans. If any of you gapers are thinking twice about climbing with a stranger you met on the internet, I can attest to Tim's climbing prowess. He is one of the strongest climbers I have met on this site! For all you single climber chicas out there, I suggest you snatch up this ropegun while you can! He's available ladies!

quote: Originally posted by MountainMan: I was in the Colchuck Col this weekend 18MAY02 ... conditions were very soft ... camped at 7000' and got rained on. I climbed to the col with snowshoes on -- no crampons needed. I don't know what kind of information you're looking for, but if you were to head up there now (aside from ordinary mountaineering obstacles) I can't see anything preventing you from summitting. DEFINITELY bring snowshoes for the approach .. I postholed up to my neck several times on the approach (even with snowshoes). What were the skiing conditions on the glacier like?

Right on Anna! Congrats on your first trad climb! Just remember-- sport climbing is neither.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Clipped in at each end, it is a full strenght runner. But the bar tacks are only bodyweight or so. So much of the strength is determined by how you clip it in. If you clip into two loops next to eachother and the bar tack blows...your biner is no longer a part of the continous loop. Does that make sense? A guy named crazy jamie suggested to me that I clip screamers on the anchors for a climb called Snake Dike on Half Dome. I thought clipping into one of the inner loops on my daisy might act like a screamer-- in the case of a factor 1 or 2 fall, a few of the bar tacks would blow but the continuous loop would hold weight equal to a sewn sling. I also would tie into the anchor with a clove hitch. My thinking was the force absorbed by the bar tacks would keep the 1/4 inch bolts from pulling. Of course no one fell and we even ended up simlu climbing-- tried to link a few pitches and the rope came up short. And of course Snake Dike is really a hike, not a climb. So I say yes to daisies. Nice for rappel stations and avoiding belay station snafus when climbing in a party of three.

Right on Will!

ChucK-- After rapping it did you decide you didn't want to climb it? Was this before or after the "big rock fall"? Was it in the last 10 years? Would you climb it now that you are a Dad? I'm sorry, maybe this is your new project and you're planning to free it this summer?

Crackbolter-- I used to hate chaos, then I learned that America is all about entropy and once you learn to embrace the transience of life you can ride it like a wave coming into the beach. Om mani padmi hum... The last time I was in the valley was in June 98 and there was a HUGE rock fall on the Apron. Took out some cabins, I seem to recall. We plan on heading straight for the wall and save the socializing for ledges high above the valley floor. I'm sure there will be many people there, but that's part of the experience, right? And Dru-- Yes Canada is awesome, but a climber going to Yosemite is like a Muslim going to Mecca. [ 05-08-2002, 01:23 PM: Message edited by: Matt ]