Matt

But at times I wondered if I had not come a long way only to find that what I really sought was something I left behind. Tom Horbein, Everest: The West Ridge

Yosemite, N.E. Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock - IV, 5.9 This climb kicked my butt. I thought this climb would be a cruiser and instead I was beaten to a pulp. There is a 5.6 traverse down low that totally freaked me out. Up higher on the route I remember this chimney with a crack in the back. There were tons of cams stuck in it and all I could do was stuff, clip and go, just like the rest of 'em. I consider myself a trad climber and enjoy chimneys but the chimneys on this thing just go on and on. This is not a forearm pumper-- it's a total body work out. IMHO this is 5.10, but as a non resident of the valley everything is harder than it's rated. I've done the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. I remember it being hard, but think the NE Butt of UC is a full grade harder. Royal Arches is such a fine route. Mmm. I grabbed the webbing on the pendulumn.

When campaigning, be swift as the wind; in leisurely march, majestic as the forest; in raiding and plundering, like fire; in standing, firm as the mountains. As unfathomable as the clouds, move like a thunderbolt. --Sun Tsu, "The Art of War"

Oops. [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 08-30-2001).]

Hakioawa-- Thanks for the Birthday cake on top of Shuksan! It's a small world, isn't it? If you need a partner for Burgundy Spire drop me a line.

Maybe there should be a Lost and Found Bulletin board on this website. Is that possible Tim & John?

I have a friend, lets call him Joe, who was climbing with one partner. It was the summer solstice and the weather was perfect. They summited Baker and decided to make a speedy decent by glissading down in the soft summer snow. Joe slowed down and watched in disbelief as his partner glissaded into a cravasse. His partner hit his head and landed unconscious, face down in a puddle of water at the bottom of the cravasse. Joe set up an anchor and tried to extract his friend. He could not do it. He then rappelled into the cravasse where he was totally drenched by a waterfall in the cravasse. By the time Joe got to his friend it was too late. He performed CPR, all the while getting colder and colder in the bottom of the cravasse. He then realized his own situation was perilous and tried to get himself out. Joe almost died of hypothermia trying to prussik out of the cravasse through the waterfall. All he could do was tell the rescue team to take their time for friend was already dead.

Raichles are nice boots too. I have wide feet and these fit me perfectly. I went up to MEC in Vancouver to buy them and it was well worth the trip.

Raichles are nice boots too. I have wide feet and these fit me perfectly. I went up to MEC in Vancouver to buy them and it was well worth the trip.

Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. Awesome climb! The chimneys were clean of snow and Hells Hiway provided minor difficulties. There must have been 40 people on top!?!?! Some kind Mountaineers shared birthday cake with me next to the summit register!

I've climbed ice in Smuggler's Notch near Mt. Mansfield. Vermont ice is pretty nice.

What did you bring for gear?

It's cold and raining and not nice for climbing.

Thanks Chris for the tip-- I'm sure my partner will appreciate it. Mattp, you are so right. In cases where there is a party of two, the person who falls into the cravass has to be able to get him/herself out. In some situations one person cannot pull a partner out alone. I worry about my partner getting wedged into the bottom of a cravasse. Truly this is my nightmare!!! Dru-- You seem to be the master of animation on this site. Do you think you could find something to fully illustrate the "Luke-on-hoth" technique of bivying? Lambone-- I'm going to "Luke-on-Hoth" YOU if you're not careful! [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 08-24-2001).] [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 08-29-2001).]

No, I don't think rescue gear is useless. No, I do not expect to be rescued by other climbers. In fact, it has been the case that I've had to help out my fellow climbers on more than once occasion. The truth is I have so much gear that often I want to bring much more than I need. Let's say I climb the Fisher Chimneys this weekend. Do I need 5 ice screws? Or a small assortment of wired nuts? Or a second tool? Or my 11mm x 60 meter rope? Or my ascenders? Or a GPS ( I don't have one)? The list goes on and on. I see lots of people loaded down with unnecessary gear. I too have succumbed to "unnecessary gear" and frankly it's stupid. I even considered bringing skis--UNNECESSARY!! Kyle-- I was not trying to say you are stupid. On the contrary, thank you for sharing with me what you brought and what experience has taught you. I will bring all the requisite stuff.

Thanks for the input. My partner and I are trying to decide between the Coleman-Deming and Fisher Chimneys. I'm leaning towards the Chimneys... It sounds like you had a lot of people-- it will be just the two of us and I'm more inclined to go fast and light. We'll try to leave as much as possible at home. I just love sprinting past climbers laden down with tons of useless gear. Indeed it has been a great season! Have fun on Glacier!

They're Dubya quotes. Here's my favorite: They misunderestimated me. -- Bentonville, Arkansas, Nov. 6, 2000

Neri-- I know what I believe. I will continue to articulate what I believe and what I believe—I believe what I believe is right. I don't need to be subliminabable. http://www.dubyaspeak.com/ [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 08-22-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Neri: "Everybody must get stone" Bob Dylan Do you think Dylan was talking about rock climbing?

Neri-- You crack me up!!!! I'd like to compare avocados to avocados and gibberish to gibberish. Okay? Or Maybe Patagucci to Patagucci and Hummer to Hummer. Do you covet my avocado too? bi nik yum yelikh heriktei. chi eustoi tom dorak bain bolovch hamagui chi minii setgelt orson yagaat givel chi yamar nigen yumnaac aikhgui bain aa.

Neri, I apologize for being so insensitive. I didn't even consider that English wasn't your native language. I am sorry and regret my harsh words. Your English rocks! Honestly, I think your English is much better than President Bush's English. And yes, I speak a few languages. I speak Mongolian, Mandarin and Japanese. I certainly couldn't post messages in Chinese or Japanese, but I could in Mongolian. What do you speak? In what countries have you climbed? In America we are lucky enough to have the freedom to go into a wilderness that is still wild. All Americans have this right. [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 08-21-2001).]

I watched Jerry Moffet in Arapiles walk up a 5.13. He was like Spiderman. On my first trip to the Gunks I spent an hour watching Lynn Hill work something heinous. I brushed shoulders with Derek Hersey in Eldorado Canyon. I didn't know who he was at the time.

I feel somewhat guilty for slandering Dick. He did one nice thing-- when we finished climbing he gave me a bunch of gear that we found while climbing in lieu of gas money. It was nice b/c I needed the gear and he didn't. He IS a good climber, I'll give him that.

David-- I can't believe you're recommending a French car!!! What is that old saying--- in European heaven the cars are German, the food is French, the cops are English, the lovers are Italian and the bankers are Swiss. In European hell the cops are German, the food is English, the cars are French the bankers are Italian and the lovers are Swiss. Thanks Mattp for the correction ; - ) That said, a peppy rally car is fun with a capital "F". I love that Subaru ad for the WRX. [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 08-21-2001).]

Look at the similarities between Neri's post and this: When George W. Bush was asked what Independence Day meant to him, he replied, "Well, it's an unimaginable honor to be the President during the Fourth of July of this country. It means what these words say, for starters. The great inalienable rights of our country. We're blessed with such values in America. And I-- it's-- I'm a proud man to be the nation based upon such wonderful values... But the true greatness of America are the people." I previously compared Neri's English to our President's without considering that Neri is not a native English speaker. Sorry, Neri, I should not have insulted you. Please forgive my insensitivity. [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 08-21-2001).]