JasonG

The CMC route on Mt. Moran has some great views out over the environs of Jackson:

Looks like you brought a proper camera. Bravo!

damn

cool, thanks for that link @bargainhunter!

A grand looking North Face:

Trip: Mesahchie Tour - JGAP LLC Trip Date: 05/21/2022 Trip Report: One of the things I enjoy most about rambling around in the hills is figuring out the "best" way or time of year to do trips. This often takes repeated visits to a route or area, in several seasons, and maybe over as long as 10 years or more. Of course "best" is entirely subjective, but it typically means (for me) when/how the outing the the most "fun" (or, TBH, easiest). I'm not getting any younger, so I need to use all the tricks I can. It also helps to bring strong, competent, younger partners along. @geosean ably fit that role on the Mesahchie Tour yesterday and helped it all click. In the case of this tour, it took three times and ignoring some of the advice you'll find online or in a guidebook. But despite my stubborness, we were rewarded with fun turns, spectacular views, and solitude. We also had the full mix of weather, from spring to winter and back again in the span of a few hours. And the full mix of snow conditions as well, including some of the stickiest snow either of us has had the "pleasure" of skiing. But we had a great time overall, with minimal shenanigans. But just remember, "best" is in the eye of the beholder. You might hate the way we went so I'll let you figure it out for yourself. That is the part of the allure of the North Cascades, no matter the weather or season. Oh, and if you were the one who stole the catalytic converter from my '91 Civic while it was parked for a few hours at the Easy Pass TH (in broad daylight!), I hope you really needed that hit of meth. Sheesh. NF of Graybeard: Golden Horn and Hardy: Hardy: NF of Arches: The one and only @geosean Look at that, a nice path through the cornice! How civilized: My favorite view of the trip, NF of Goode: Glamour shotz by JGAP: North side of Ragged Ridge: Probably the best turns of the day, fast and smooth and in the sun: NF of Katsuk: NF of Mesahchie: Then we had some winter: Minimal shenanigans getting over Granite creek on a nice jam: Look at that footwork!: Gear Notes: leave the snowshoes at home! Approach Notes: Follow Volken or your own nose. There are options

Yes, the Beckey gas station napkins weren't quite up to the task.

It's true, we were woefully unprepared!

Skinning up/descending that way would have been fairly unpleasant. The snow was pretty terrible. But hey, beats mowing the lawn!

Trip: South Early Winters Spire - SW Couloir Trip Date: 05/14/2022 Trip Report: Wow, it has been a long time since I did a TR on here. Maybe that is because I am mostly climbing middle aged weekend warrior stuff these days, of which there is no end of TRs in this database. But, I was reminded yesterday, those trips are still quite a hoot, even almost 30 years since I first started rambling around the North Cascades. I mean what's not to like a about driving a couple hours from your warm bed, skiing up to an aesthetic couloir and tagging a purty summit with good friends? Even if two of those friends wanted to start two hours after you did and the other friend forgot their skis and set it all back another hour? But none of that could detract from the timeless fun of good times in the hills with old and new friends. And, truth be told, the SNAFUs actually all worked out for the best, since we had the summit to ourselves during the only sunny spell of the day. And that is why, even though I've lost count of the number of times I've climbed S. Early, I will be back! @therunningdog and Sara on the approach: @cfire booting up the SW couloir in a squall: The best ambiance: The stoke was high for Sara! Cumbre!: Selfie: Mind the gap: Typical shenanigans on the descent: The route: Across to Golden Horn and Tower: @cfire ready to slay the schmoo: Whistler Peak from the highway, apres: You don't bring an end table for TH apres snacks? The always beautiful Silverstar between squalls: Gear Notes: Helmet, axe, crampons, flotation. Rope is optional, depending on your comfort with the exposure. Approach Notes: Park at Blue Lake TH and go up! You can't miss it.

I have been slacking! But @dberdinka never does when he is in the hills. Here he is heading to the North ridge of Torment:

Absolutely incredible, especially that first Big Four photo. Wow!

Tomorrow!

https://www.anacortesnow.com/news/community-news/4749-snow-clearing-on-north-cascades-highway-making-progress Next week!

Oh, I know. But that dad joke was just too good to pass up!

I'm heading to pick this up this weekend, thanks @max!!

Wow!

I need to plan a Canada trip next season. I mean, just look at this view from the front porch of the Stanley Mitchell Hut!

https://lakechelannow.com/north-cascades-highway-update/ Seems like next weekend isn't going to happen, mid May this year?

Just about volcano season!

This is still one of the best things ever written on this site.

Cumbre!!! Well done!!! That sounds like quite the effort. Thanks for the detailed beta and beautiful images....so great!!!

Yeah, that is true, with snow I think Eldo is the better approach. I like the idea of a Torment Tour, going down the couloir to the lake and finishing by up and around to Eldo and out. Camping at Moraine Lake is pretty special, definitely one of my favorite spots.

Wow! That is an amazing trip, thanks for the beta! Just so I am clear, you only needed the fixed rope to access Torment and not to descend the couloir? And, is there any reason you didn't use the torment basin route?