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psathyrella

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psathyrella last won the day on June 16

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About psathyrella

  1. Can’t post cc.com links on Facebook?

    au contraire, thanks for being the admins ;-)
  2. Can’t post cc.com links on Facebook?

    Yeah I would imagine cc has been flagged as a quite spammy domain since the hacking. Besides the front page ads about which we won't speak, the p0rn spam in my email increased 10 fold right when it got hacked. :-( Which, yeah, would be sad if it continues since fb is cancer that can never replace many of the functions of a real forum.
  3. Working on weaknesses

    "9 out of 10" is amazing, for me it's been worthwhile rereading every few years. I definitely have tried to follow the recommendation about lots of easy mileage to improve technique, although I don't keep track of individual pitches -- partly laziness, but mostly I do a lot of bouldering. I guess one thing I would add is that for me it's really a cycle between strength training and technique training (which Dave Macleod calls taking time to apply a new level of strength to the rock). For me a new level of strength enables technique practice that would've been impossible before. I also feel like the rock angle is maybe more important than the grade for technique practice. If I split climbing technique into two parts: 1. moving limbs and hips to allow easy upward progress vs 2. attaching feet and hands to the rock, then for 1. there's very little common technique between a 15 deg overhanging route and a 15 deg slab route, or even a vertical route. On the other hand, routes at the same angle require largely the same limb/hip (1.) technique regardless of grade -- the holds mostly just get smaller. Rock type is also important, though I think less so -- the biggest effect of rock type is perhaps getting used to granite (& others) often not having actual holds. Before I started serious hangboarding, I was basically plateauing around granite .10. But after just my first hb phase a whole new world of technique practice became possible: to me there feels like a qualitative change somewhere between mid .10 and mid .11 on granite. You go from making your feet stick to the wall mostly from gravity (with your hands sometimes pulling you on a little bit), to sticking your feet to the wall mostly with counter pressure from other limbs (pulling with fingers on vertical, pushing with palms or feet stemming or chimneying, heel hooking around an arete). Without a certain level of finger strength:weight ratio, you just can't hang around long enough on vertical terrain to learn how to make your feet stick. And if you're born with typical levels of finger strength:weight, you'll need to start hangboarding more around .11 (anderson bros) than .12 (josh w), .13 (dave m), .14 (sonny trotter), or .15/never (tommy caldwell). Climbing with crampons is trickier, it's just vastly more time consuming (and dangerous) to get a given amount of mileage than it is with rock shoes. And as yall are saying, mixed crags tend to be developed with the goal of pulling hard on good pockets, whereas alpine climbing is more standing around and pulling lightly on teensy edges. I do think that climbing similar-angle routes in rock shoes is great technique learning for alpine crampon climbing -- it only address limb/hip technique (1.), but "onsighting vertical terrain" has lots of skills that are the same whatever your footwear. The crampon/tool interface with the rock (2.) still has to be layered on top, but that's much less time consuming than having to work on both. The difficulty of ice climbing, on the other hand, is almost entirely in attaching your fingers and toes to the wall (2.) -- pure ice uses only an extremely limited repertoire of different climbing moves. More directly related to your counting question, while I just try to maximize number of moves rather than keeping track of individual pitches, I guess you could say I "keep track" of whether I should be focusing on technique or strength based on which I feel is causing me to fail at my goal routes at a given point in time. Right now it's super clear to me that I fail at granite onsighting, which is my main rock shoe priority, because of route reading ability -- where to switch from stem to layback, where to place what gear, etc. This is the complete opposite case to where I was a few years ago, where I'd usually find close to the best way to do moves at my level fairly quickly, but would pump out. On ice I'm in a similar technique-limited boat -- I'm comparatively bad at understanding and trusting how pointy bits penetrate ice. The nice thing about this place is that onsighting lots of stuff is waaaay the fuck more fun than hangboarding, ha ha.
  4. [TR] Strobach - Strobach D Approach Pitch 02/09/2020

    Approaching strobach will always be a bit of an ordeal, but if you hew closely to the attached .gpx there is almost zero bushwhacking or blowdowns. It follows the route we flagged a few years ago (2015?). I think the main key is that if you go directly from the road to mother lode, you encounter a ton of blowdown, but this gpx track swings to the right, generally onto a berm/ridge on the climbers left edge of a large boulder field, and provides much easier travel. I was in there in early January this year, and was surprised that almost all of the flagging was still there. It's not that much help if there's any snow on the trees/bushes, since you can't see most of it until you're right on top of it, but you're never more than twenty meters or so from a piece of orange so you can use it to verify that you're on the right track. strobach.gpx
  5. For the sake of future googlenauts, I thought I'd bump this with info on an alternative approach (not discovered by me) that avoids the swamp creek schwack, and is thus strongly recommended. The attached picture is really all you need, but: continue past swamp creek for a few miles, turning left off trail at a distinct opening/flat spot where the trail abuts the river at a gravel bar, with many very large chainsawed logs strewn about, and a very large boulder on the right (river) side. Head more or less straight up hill, following your nose and sticking to the largest trees, and there's essentially no bushwhacking or scrambling (the red line is approximate). Upon reaching the col you could presumably cut left in order to start at needle, as above ^, but I can't say for sure.
  6. Franklin Falls conditions?

    Cool, thanks for swinging by, everybody. Looks a little soggy for me, still, but maybe next year. p.s. look at us posting photos like it ain't nothing! :heart: admins.
  7. Franklin Falls conditions?

    I wonder if anyone's had a look at Franklin Falls since things cooled off last week?
  8. for sale Scarpa Rebel Pro 46.5 $125

    Amazing boots, but I'm finally admitting I just didn't get the right size (reviews here and here). They've seen some use (see pictures) but have many, many meters left in 'em.
  9. Looking for a partner for a day or two, after the snowpack finishes settling out around Fri/Sat. Perhaps climb some of the flows near Nisqually, then ski up to 10k or so? Open to similar ideas within a couple hours of Seattle.
  10. Graybeard Nordwand, early winter.... this winter.

    http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200415804/North-America-United-States-Washington-Graybeard-North-Face-Routes
  11. Looking for climbing partners in chamonix apr 18 to may 13. My main priority on this trip is mileage on mixed terrain, but I can be flexible. I lead about td+/ed-. dkralph aatt gmail
  12. WTB skimo race skis

    Not particular at all about dimensions or condition, but preferably under 900g. thanks.
  13. Canadian Weather forecasts for climbing

    windguru lets you compare three models: 27km GFS, 4km HRW, and 12km NAM. They also do a sane, documented, high resolution altitude extrapolation. The site is ostensibly for wind surfers and their ilk, but with a ($20/year) paid account you can add your own custom spots (for example pigeon-howser col in the link above). But you don't need a paid account to view everybody's spots, so the more of us that join and add mountain-oriented spots, the more useful it becomes. Also, the dude that runs it is responsive and actively developing. mountain-forecast.com seems to pretty much be garbage. Probably the easiest way to see this is to watch how frequently they'll tell you a clear day above 2000m has a difference of only a couple degrees between the high and the low. They also don't seem to have any documentation as to what model they're using and what adjustments they make, which doesn't improve confidence. The best single model hereabouts is probably the uw wrf, which (depending on the resolution) does extend as far as the columbia mountains, but their public interface is comically unusable. It would be easy to code up a more digestible version, but their funders require them to not make anything except those crazy gifs publicly available. Which seems a little weird given that pretty much all of the listed funders are public agencies, sigh.
  14. Mountain weather

    Bump. Added an interface for the darn uw wrf gifs.
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