JasonG

With all the inept blather on this topic (Don't you people have other websites you can ramble incoherently on???) this response will probably get lost in the mayhem. No, I don't think there will be enough melting this week to put the north ridge of stuart into summer-like condition. If you are looking for more of a wet and snowy spring-like adventure, though, I think it would work.

North Ridge-lots of snow and wintery looking. Serpentine arete-quite a bit of snow on the lower ledges then snow bits all the way to the top. This info is as of yesterday 5/21 as we rambled up dragontail and colchuck. Both routes are still a bit early if you are looking for dry rock and warm feet.

What were the temperatures like?? I was thinking of heading up there this weekend if the temps continue to be low. Other than being bombarded, was the route in good condition? Thanks for any info.

i've climbed from park creek pass up and over the east ridge of buckner into horseshoe basin. lots o' loose rock (mostly 4th with some low fifth sections) and not a reccommended route. i'm not sure of the way you are proposing to get into horseshoe basin but it might be a bit better. i'm told that once in h-basin the route up and onto sahale arm isn't that bad (when not snow covered)-much better than our scary vertical bushwack down the non-existent "climbers path" Becky describes into lower horseshoe basin. have a good time-it's a beautiful area that you will probably have all to yourself.

Tod- How was the north ridge/buttress of Fury? Good climbing?, worth the effort? It is a route that I've often wondered about . . . Thanks much for any info.

Phil's right. There really isn't any way to go too far before starting up to high pass. Cliff bands block the way on the traverse, and all you have to do is look up and see the notch of high pass. Good luck, It's a great view down to the farms on the Stilly.

One of the most obvious things the Mountaineers have done is publish pretty much all of the guidebooks Mr. CascadeClimber uses to find his way in the hills. One thing I would like to point out is that if we looked at all of the private parties out there, I think we'd see about as much stupid stuff as we see in the Mountaineers (I know I've witnessed plenty of 'accidents waiting to happen' in private parties). The Mountaineers are just really easy to pick on as the are visible and tend to travel in packs. That isn't to say that there aren't problems with the Mountaineers, they're merely human like all of us.

As a mounties member, I feel the pain that the club sometimes inflicts on the unsuspecting public. HOWEVER, I have met many fun and skilled climbers through the club and have learned much from their courses. I often check the schedule and avoid areas where there are basic trips but, like Lowell, consider it a minor nuisance for all the good the club has done over the years. I feel that the real problem lies not in the Mountaineers, but the extreme population growth over the last few decades. It's my guess that most of you are part of the problem, have you been here longer than the Mountaineers?

I was up on the South face of the Tooth yesterday. We worked a nice path up to the climb and it took 2 hours. Anyone going now could do it a bit faster. The rock was warm and mostly melted off, with snow on the ledges and some holds. The NE slab looked horrific and something I don't think most people would deem fun under these conditions (mostly wet rock and thin, thin, ice and snow). The avi danger was almost nonexistant and felt very safe with all the freezing rain they've recieved in the last few days. As far as condtions on Chair go, I'd imagine very thin. In the gullies below the Tooth the snow was thin and unconsolidated without any ice. I'd imagine Chair wouldn't be too fun right now. But, then again, I am not an uber climber. For some it might be fun . . .

Anyone have any recent beta on the route? New snow amounts, iciness of the rock, etc. Thanks

Went up to the Enchantments this last weekend and was treated to beautiful larches and warm rock. The west ridge is a great climb and I highly recommend it to anyone. Great rock, moderate difficulty, and nice views. No problems were encountered and a fun time was had by all.