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Everything posted by jon
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I have some Merino dress shirts that are fine, and a 320 Icebreaker that does have a few holes in it, but it's also odd and I wear it quite a bit. Thinking about it a bit more I think it's mostly the age, usage. My other hypothesis is because I don't wash them frequently, the build up of salt is weakening the fibers.
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Granted I think 3+ years of those were busy with baby/kids and not getting a ton of usage. I originally thought wool products lasted "forever" but I think the fibers are much much thinner in these garments, and lets face it not the greatest business model to make something that never breaks down. Glad to not be the only one to consider critters. They started falling apart after I moved into a new house, but that also coincided with getting out much more often. Which brand are people having the most luck with now? I noticed there are about another dozen brands in the marketplace now.
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I'm curious how long people's merino tops and bottoms have been lasting from Smartwool or Icebreaker? Most of the stuff I have is Icebreaker and around 10 years old, I've been really happy with them, but in the last few years they have totally deteriorated. Lots of small holes mostly on the thinner stuff. I generally don't wash them a lot and hang dry them. Part of the reason I'm asking is while I haven't seen any other signs, I wonder if I have carpet beetles in my house and want to rule that out before buying more.
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Let's just not forget these people didn't get paid for a month, and risk not getting paid in the future. Not being able to get up to Paradise for the 74rd time isn't a big deal.
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I suspect they will open the road all the way. The website says they plan on resuming normal operations. My guess is they didn't have time to fully winterize the facilities for non-usage so they likely need to get up there to prevent damage.
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I will say this is one thing that drives me fucking nuts, and I'm a dog owner. The dog shits and they put it in the bag and then leave it there to retrieve on their way back, like everyone else who walks by it doesn't care.
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I think there is a picture on the Coavy IG account from a big slide on Tumalo. Definitely check the avy conditions report.
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Come on Rad didn't they teach you that in Chem 140? (Moles of water * density / enthalpy of water) / (angle of slope * speed)
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I read something by NWAC, I think on IG, that basically said the same thing in that we need some major rain for long term stability. A Bellingham based photographer got swept over a cliff in an in-bounds slide the day before opening at Baker, but thankfully he was fine.
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Looking to get a new Suunto watch and the seem to have 20 different watches now instead of 3. Anyone have any recommendations for one that works well for climbing and multi-sport?
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My take on intermittent fasting as a climber..
jon replied to BrandonClimbs's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
I've done IF and keto for quite a few years now, and at one point was road bike racing while in keto. I've also advised quite a few people who have gotten into this. My biggest pieces of advice area: - Make sure you have transitioned into a carb restricted diet before trying either of these, otherwise you will have a terrible time at the beginning. The slow carb diet is good choice. - Exercise in the morning before eating. It stresses the oxidative metabolic machinery and also acts like a time machine. -
It's amazing how many companies are making tech bindings now in some form. Other than the standard Dynafit what are people liking? Have people had much success using Binding Freedom or Quiver Killers with two different hole patterns?
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I personally think falling backwards like you describe is a pretty unlikely scenario and probably would not dwell on the possibility of that happening. Most people die from avalanches or being caught in bad weather.
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I'll find a more permanent home for it but it's attached to this post @diepj Kloke Winter Climbs Complete.pdf
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https://www.nytimes.com/video/opinion/100000006186870/what-if-he-falls.html?action=click&module=Opinion&pgtype=Homepage They linked this from the homepage under "Opinion" which was a bit weird, as it was made by Jimmy Chin and his wife, and features @Wallstein in it. It's definitely worth watching!
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So let me ask you, what in your opinion will get those people who left back on here?
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@CascadeClimber I received those too, and you know that. I am sorry that happened to you, and you definitely did not deserve it, as did anyone else. I can assure if anyone received harassment it was me. I'm not disputing that part, but to say we didn't do anything about it isn't accurate whatsoever, and those two/three guys were gone far before the site "peaked". Should we have done something about it sooner and more forcefully, yes. Are there other people who were also were problematic we should have gotten rid of sooner. Probably yes. But dare I say it this also happened 17 years ago! Is it really fair for us to keep getting dragged through the mud about decisions we made that long ago that we have learned from an moved on from? We also could have done everything right back then and still be in the same place.
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I'm really surprised to read this bit and it's a pretty unfair version of history, although I'll be the first to admit that a lot of the trolls and general bad behavior likely caused a lot of lasting damage that will take time to fix. Yes, there was some really terrible behavior early on and those people were permanently banned. Should it happened quicker? I don't know, probably. Nobody handed us an owners manual when we started this; I was barely 24 when we went live. There are definitely people who I wish I had 86'ed earlier. But you of all people should have known how much we struggled with how to deal with these situtations, which is why I kind of find the "Ad impressions and the trolls won out" astonishing to read. We have never made a decision here for money. Did the trolls win? This site has been online for 18 years and has 8800+ TRs, so I'd argue no. Did they leave a lasting bruise, sure. I have however come to accept this world has changed, there was no iPhone, FB, IG, millions of apps vying for your attention when we first started. This was one of a handful of a small handful of climbing sites.
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As part of the Paris Climate Accord the United Nations panel for climate change released it's findings that are summarized pretty well in the below NYT article. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/07/climate/ipcc-climate-report-2040.html A couple interesting quotes in the comments of that article... There is no question we will have to make some majorly drastic changes in how we operate in this world. As climbers and general outdoors people how do we justify things like long drives into the mountains, long airplane rides to far off places, the occasional helicopter ride? Where do we draw the line, and how do we justify and minimize our impacts? A typical trip for me around Mt Baker will result in me using 6+ gallons of gas, where 1 gallon of combusted gas will product 20 pounds of C02. I'm putting over half my weight in gas into the atmosphere just traveling for one trip! I'm curious at to others thoughts on this and what things can be done to help minimize our impacts even more. We seem to tread lightly once we are there but not so much getting there.
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[TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress Solo 08/01/2018
jon replied to landoclimb's topic in North Cascades
@landoclimb wow amazing work here! You might want to upload the images here, over time urls to external sources degrade and that is not something we can fix. -
I'm copying what I posted on Instagram today. If you don't already follow us there please do, it really helps us out a lot: https://www.instagram.com/cascadeclimbers/ Thank you to everyone who has contributed here over the years. It's been a journey, a bit tough at times, but so worth it. This place isn't perfect but we will continue to pour our heart into it, and the biggest thing you can do to help this place is just be an awesome contributor, agree to disagree at times, keeping pumping out TRs, and leave things better than you found them.
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Omg you are in a picture in your own TR
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@OlympicMtnBoy I'm actually glad to hear people liked and used that functionality. I never actually setup any tracking to see if it was being used. I will be bringing that functionality back so hang in there.