snowleopard_x

To keep the thread alive... Have you considered taking your brother-in-law up the West Crater/Zig Zag Glaicer route? (To the left of Crater Rock). In bad conditions it's an avalanche trap. But in most conditions, it's safe, and not that much steeper than the SSide. Something to look into anyway.

Ken - follow this link to the RCU board and look about 15 posts down for a discussion on just this subject. http://www.trailspace.com/climbing/index.html

Good idea, and I hope it works. To be wholly honest, I don't even check the main board anymore because of so many of the comments.

Good idea, and I hope it works. To be wholly honest, I don't even check the main board anymore because of so many of the comments.

I cross country skied up to Cloud Cap last weekend (4/2/01) and the snow looked like it does in early May. There were many patches of compact snow and ice, and the snow was very dirty down below. Due to the extremely low snow this year, the road might be driveable as early as Memorial Day this year. Cloudy with light snow and winds, so I couldn't see the peak, or even the Eliot Glacier. So I can't really give a report on that.

Uh, hello! I am interesting in buying! One of them anyway! Did you miss my post? Did you get my e-mail? Me - Buy. Me - Give you $$$ for Tool. You - contact me. Please! snowleopard@coho.net

Tim - How did the crossing of the Reid look to you? Are the crevasses sufficently filled in and bridged, or does it still look like a mine field because of the lack of snowfall?

McDowell - I tried e-mailing you, but I never heard back. Do you still have the tools? Contact me if so: snowleopard@coho.net

Hmmmm, you guys wouldn't be carpooling with each other by any chance?! The Bolivian Andes are indeed spectacular. I live in Portland and won't be able to make it, but I hope the show is a big success. Can you share a little more here on just where you went? Best of luck on Makalu!

Good point Rod. Buhler is a total stud. And you are right about how he hardly every blows his own horn, if at all. He has written very few articles even. I believe 2 years ago R&I had an article pointing out the best climbers in each aspect of the sport, they called Carlos the best US mountaineer. So at least some of us are watching.

Wydrav13 - If you leave your skis at the top of the Hogsback (near Crater Rock, can't miss it) on Hood, and climb that last hundred feet or so to the summit and back, then ski all the way down, there virtually are no crevasses to fall into. The only real crevasse on Hood's south face is the 'schrund high up above the Hogs back. Skiers ski from the summit each year, and almost daily from the Hogsback between March and June. Go for it! Pretty much the same on Adams. There are crevasses on the top, but the route is so wide, and easy to follow. If unsure, you could leave the skis at Piker's Peak (South Summit) hump the last few hundred meters to the top and back, the ski down. The chances of skiing into a crevasse there are very, very slim. My understanding on Avy Gulch is the same, virtually no crevasses. Having never been there though, I can't say for sure. I have never been on Casaval, but it sure looks like a scenic climb. Has anyone here climbed Sergent's Ridge? That climb looks like a great one on Shasta too. Not super technical, but enough topography to keep it interesting, with views in several directions.

Curious, I looked it up and read it all over again (Climbing, #199). Here are some quotes: "We planned to ditch gear as it became superfluous: the rack, a rope, useless stoves. armchair intellectuals will shout ethical opposition to this behavior, but until such critics confront the likelyhood of death they can't understand how easily ethics are traded for continued existence. Honor means winning, which requires surviving." At no place does he state in the article that they actually ditched stoves, even fuel canisters. However, later he notes, near the top of the climb: "The slope laid back so I ran on blunt frontpoints until I was out of rope, then shouted for them to move with me while I continued tugging." "What about the anchor?" "Leave it. We're done". I shouted back. House also dropped a tool on the route. Far from littering. Of note: While I firmly disagree with his statement on justifying littering, ie. that it's acceptable if you're good, and in a hard spot, and I can't disagree more with the thought that "honor means winning", aside from dumping the anchor, nowhere in the article does he state that they actually dumped any stoves or fuel behind, only the anchor when near the top, and totally wasted. Later in the article he glosses over having spent 24 hours being nursed back to health by the Rangers at 14k. Something he was roundly criticized for, having spoken so harshly in regard to normal climbers just climbing the West Buttress. Complex man, to say the least. I was wholly put off by, and still am, his "arrogant attitue" (his words), and agree with the many that his article makes him come off as an "elitest prick" (his words, again). I will however credit him for writing a detailed book, chock full of advanced climbing techniques. For those who have not read it, what I really recommend is Steve House' article in the 2000 AAC Journal (pg 157), as House really does convey what I think Twight was getting at, but was overshadowed by his snobbiness: That the vision to make bold climbs, such as those done by the likes of Kurtyka, Loretan, Messner & Habaler, Kuzkucka, etc. just aren't being done by Americans much these days. Replaced by big budget, TV production type climbs. A very worth discussion indeed.

I fall into the category that Twight should be scorned, mostly for his littering, and acting like it's justified, because of his skill. As a matter of fact, I'm one of those Alex is referring to on RCU. Though what he may not know is that I have been on that site for many months, and know some of those guys, even climbed with a few, so it's not as much of a fight there as one may seem. But it is amusing, I suppose. Does anyone know if Twight is still sponsored by Patagonia? This would be most ironic, considering how green Patagonia claims to be, to have someone they sponsor rationalizing littering in the name of skill.

Thaks for the TR, Tom. The west side of Hood is certainly very nice. And you are right, get away from the Hogsback, and the climbing on Hood is much more interesting. Maybe three parties a year get out onto the Ladd or Coe Glaciers, for example (N, NW faces). Very remote and alpine. Glad you made it, and had a great time. Jeff Thomas book, Oregon High, has the best beta for climbing Hood, for those interested.

Tom - Due to the severe drought, you should have no problem getting up Hood, even Leuthold, unless you wait and climb after a big storm. It has been so warm and dry, the conditions on the peak are akin to November. I was up on the Reid Glacier (below Leuthold) 3 weeks ago and we did not need snowshoes, or skis to hike all the way up there. Pickets did fine, and the ice wasn't even hard enough for screws, with a few exceptions (glacial ice, of course). There is very little snow, and the crevasses are still not fullly covered. Something stunning, if you know what a normal year would be like at this time. That said, be careful about climbing on the west face of the peak after a storm, as the entire area is an avalanche trap. And as bad as this winter has been (bad as in dry), it's still winter and you could get hit with a killer storm.

Don't you guys have Unreal Tournament installed on the network at your jobs?

I've heard good things about Barrabes too. Make sure you buy on a time when the exchange rate is favorable, as it fluctuates more with Spain, than Canada. I only point this out as now is a lull in exchange rates for US currency. Follow this link to see a trend: http://www.x-rates.com/htmlgraphs/ESP30.html Hope this helps.

Thanks for the story, Alex. I don't know how many people visit here anymore, but I thought I'd let you know I enjoyed what you wrote.

Kind of surprised no one on here has mentioned the new BD Rage tools, as they are getting good feedback. I have never used them, but on other boards people are comparing them to the Axar quite favorably. I'm not half the climber some folks here are, but I never liked the old BD Prophets, the ones with the full rubberized shaft. Beyond what dbb noted, I found the shaft so slippery when wet it was quite annoying. Daniel, have you checked Euro or Canadian prices? If you'd rather buy US for ethical reasons, I understand, but you can get some great deals going Euro or Canada. Especially if you buy Euro made products (such as CM).

There are some good ideas and energy going on here, but there is a better place to vent than here to each other. To quote Ben Franklin, "The pen is mightier than the sword". Follow these links and voice your frustration to where it might matter, if only just a little: US Senate http://www.senate.gov/contacting/index_by_state.cfm US House of Representitives: http://congress.org/elecmail.html Please write, because if we don't who will?

This subject has been discussed thoroughly on RCU and other boards. Plus Loren, of www.cascadeclimber.com (notice there is no "s") sums it up quite well on his website. BD and others are essentially colluding with other companies (Rei, MSR) to bully others (MEC, Cham3s, T-P), which is tanamount to price-fixing, and arguably racketeering, to charge what the US market will bear. Pure and simple. If they can stay in business charging you $200 for an ice axe that costs them $50 to make, and enough of you will pay, they'll charge you for it regardless of what their costs or taxes are. And that's what it all comes down to. I don't mind paying a little more, but when the costs are 200% higher than what they sell them for elsewhere? That's absurd, and nothing but price gouging. This is also why supply-side economics (Reganomics) is such a fallacy. Cutting taxes for businesses (or even income) isn't going to make the manufacturers and distributers make and stock more items, thus driving the prices down. It's the same in just about any other non-regulated market. They will charge what the market will bear. Yes, you should pay duties on imported goods into the country bought overseas, including the toys we buy. That is part of what makes the market fair. But this amount is nothing compared to the price difference between what BD wants to charge you for items here in the US, versus what some Euro companies will. That said, hardly anyone I have ever heard of has been taxed for import duties. US Customs are understaffed and too busy dealing with big shipments, plus drugs and guns, to worry about each pair ski boots that come through. Again, visit CC's site. He is very knowledgeable about this issue.

I haven't been here in a while, and wish I could make a happier post, but I just heard that Chuck Pratt passed away. He was in Thiland and I don't know the circumstances of his death. The message came from Kim Schmitz, through Michael Chessler (of Chessler Books) so it is very likely legit. I always heard Chuck was a tough nut, but had a good sense of humor. May his soul rest in peace.

I kind of liked the movie. Some of it was laughable. But for a Hollywood B-movie action flick, it was okay. Better by comparison than Cliffhanger. Just remember what kind of movie it is going in, and you'll be fine. Plus I read that Scott Glenn really got into the climbing when filming it. And the shot of him climbing the serac is him, no tricks. I always liked that guy.

Hey, has anyone seen my watch? My father gave me that watch...

Sort of tooting my own horn here, and not really a climbing page, so forgive me for that. But here are some photos of mine up on the web: http://www.mountainzone.com/photo/anderson/html/index.html