snowleopard_x

I don't know how much I'd agree that Willis Wall or Yocum are within reach of the average climber, even in good conditions with modern tools. Yocum is constantly steep, with the snow/ice almost impossible to protect by all accounts. Ice screws have improved, but pickets have not changed much in 30+ years. This is the route on my list I have looked at most closely. And it doesn't look at all average, even in perfect conditions. I think what lends credence to my theory is that if it were doable for average climbers in good conditions, the routes would see more ascents than they do. Both these routes are still rarely climbed. Agree completely though on your thoughts on the hardest routes being those not done yet. Willis Wall in winter, Yocum Ridge in late summer. Both seem impossible. Yet even Victory Ridge Direct has apparently yet to be done in any season!

True Alex. But just this year MEC stopped shipping most stuff they have to the US under pressure from the US government (customs) and US businesses. So now you need to visit an MEC store to get your stuff. And now, on my soapbox... Thanks to NAFTA and GATT, and the WTA, this policy takes form. Supposedly after NAFTA and GATT we were going to ship (some) jobs overseas, then because of better trade and the goods being made cheaper, be allowed to buy those goods back at a cheaper price. Yet the whole thing was a sham, best exemplefied here. The goal really was for big business to use its plutocratic hold on government officials, and collude to drive wages as low as possible while continuing to reap as high of profits as possible for the owners and shareholders. You can still get fair prices on goods through Cham3s as listed above, and through Snell (and others) in France. Hopefully the French will hold their own here and tell US businesses and US Customes to go to hell when we try to pressure them not to sell to the US.

In the new AAJ Steve House has a provocative article (p157) on what he calls "business climbing". That is, climbs that have big budgets and big productions for the masses. Skilled TV crew, satellite computers, etc. where the climb is often done to be covered/filmed for the media. (He spoke of Alex, Synnott and Ogden's ascent of Great Trango. Which was all over the 2 main mags, Mzone.com, and on TV). He's not completely against it, but he seems to lament that climbs like those done in the mid-80's by the likes of Voytek Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, etc. that were very cutting edge, are potentially not rightfully appreciated (and thus, perhaps not fairly funded). I find this argument more fascinating than the endless "is guiding weak clients good/bad?" argument, and would love to hear some thoughts on the topic from anyone.

Curious to hear some thoughts on the hardest routes in the Cascades. I was thinking proper (volcanoes), but other routes are welcome (or you can create a new thread). Ones that come to mind in the volcanoes are: Willis Wall (any route!) on Rainier. Victory Ridge on Adams - According to Jeff Smoot this has yet to be climbed directly to this day! Yocum Ridge on Hood. Siberian Express (and Armenian Express) on Garibaldi. West Ridge on Little Tahoma Peak. Any others? Curious if anyone here has done any (no, I have not!).

This may surprise a few people, but Al Gore actually climbed Mt. Rainier last year. He and his son (and 2 Secret Service guys) were guided up by Jim Frush via the DC. As far as policies go, Gore is actually pro-business as well, and his record is spotty on the environment, but his convictions and intent do seem strong. Bush is pretty much on record saying he'd do everything to open up ANWR to oil drilling, and his general statements lead to believe he feels more logging is better for the world. Pretty disappointing as his father was actually somewhat green. How policies will affect bolting, access, etc. is as Jon noted, more likely to be determined on a local level, then perhaps pushed to the Congress, or maybe influence the Pres just a little tiny bit. [This message has been edited by snowleopard (edited 10-19-2000).] [This message has been edited by snowleopard (edited 10-19-2000).]

Some clarifications: The Disposable cameras. How about: Usable until you can afford the Sony Camcorder? Want to clarify on Windstopper. It does work okay in tops/jackets, but not when it's the only fabric used. Tends to overheat and is heavy. When coupled with other fabrics, such as Powerstretch or Shoeller Dryskin in the back or sides (Patagonia Partial Eclipse, Cloudveil Shadowpeak, etc.), it's much more practical. In general, Windstopper/Windbloc probably works best for somewhere like Nevada or Wisconson in winter. Not in the Cascades. Jon: That DriClimb shirt, how does it do in the Cascades for you? I would think that the wet would soak through? Or do you just use it for day climbs when the weather forecast is favorable? I ask because I have full Gore-Tex, but I am looking for something lighter for day climbs when it looks like it won't rain, but need to keep the wind, and a chance of a light sprinkle out.

Just trying to get the ball rolling here. A list of some of the gear I cherish, and some that I wouldn't buy again, even on a supersale. Love: Sporthill's 3SP pants and 3SP tops - Amazing fabric, great prices (www.sporthill.com). BD Express Ice Screws - Once you use these, there is no going back. Honorable mention to Smiley's old screws with the coffee grinder. Sony PC100 Camcorder - Amazing toy; digital video with stunning picture quality. Also takes megapixel stills. A scant 1 pound and fits in any large pocket. Disposable cameras - Can be taken on any climb, and if you drop it off El Cap, hey. Malden Mills - For the wonderful fabrics they make (all things Polartec) and being such an ethical company. Powerstretch is my favorite fabric of theirs. Shoeller Dryskin Extreme, and Skifans - Amazingly durable, useful fabric. A one piece does all barrier to the extremes. Seems to work in all conditions except rain, and when heavy thermal is needed under a shell. GPS - Your tax dollars at work! Hate: What's happened to The North Face. 2-ply Gore-Tex. Perfect for a rainy walk from the car to the mall. Core-Vents. It's pit zips or nothing, IMO. Full jacket or pants Winstopper. Works good as a vest, or hat, or especially gloves though. USFS Logging policies and NW Trail Pass program. GW Bush's Public Lands proposals (more logging, drilling in Alaska, etc.) Magnesium for firestarter. The guy that sold this idea must still be laughing. What Quokka did to MountainZone.

Just thought I would spread the word on where I have found some of the best prices for gear. Please feel free to add to this thread anyone. www.rei-outlet.com (REI's best deals). www.mgear.com (Mountain Gear. Call or e-mail and ask for a catalog. Then wait for sales) www.killerdeals.com (Northern Mountain Supply. Similar to Mgear, no catalog) www.sierratradingpost.com (Mostly clothing. Great deals on seconds, closeouts). www.campmor.com www.cham3s.com/defaultGB.htm (French company, but they speak English and will ship anywhere. Great prices on Euro stuff). www.mec.ca (Canadian. Not a great site, but e-mail and ask for a catalog. Great prices. But some won't ship to the US).

Currently the only climbing to be found on Mt. Hood is alpine ice on the Eliot, Coe, and perhaps Newton Clark and Ladd Glaciers (Reid and Sandy unlikely and a haul to get to), with the Eliot being the most accessable and popular. The ice is currently in excellent shape, and the alpine ice season should last until the end of October, or until the first significant snowfall. No real routes to the top are advisable, though once things cement into place (like after a good icy spell and a cold snap) some routes can be taken to the summit. Intermediate and expert climbers only. The "regular" season for climbing to Hood's summit will begin in late winter/early spring.