snowleopard_x

Time to come clean here. I was never a jarhead. I just put that up there for fun and didn't think the thread would go anywhere. So before anyone gets bent out of shape, and as I have a ton of respect for those guys (and gals), I never had that much guts. And was never in the service. I did have a similar experience though, before I was born my dad was a drill sergent in the Army, so I knew full well what discipline meant growing up (but he's a great guy and we get along great). And I had no need to get more of it from the service. And, okay, real confession here. There is no way on God's Green Earth you're going to get me to eat canned liver and onions. I know, I never should have posted that I did, or this puts hair on your chest. I only know that from what I've read. I'm a fraud, a wimp, a hairless chested weenie. Ban me from the net, I'll accept it.

Cascade Crags is a climbing gym in Everett, and I belive the only gym with an indoor ice climbing wall (made of hard foam). They are located at 2820 Rucker Ave., Everett. (425) 258-3431. Mike Palmer is the owner, and a member of this site.

Thanks for the post Mike. Thanks most of all for taking the time and effort to build such a thing. I've always dreamed of seeing something like this, just never thought it could be built. I don't live near Everett (I'm way down in Portland), but it's almost work a drive all the way up there just to check it out. I put your address in the Climbing Gym board here, and will also relay this information on other boards I visit.

Semper fi, you sissies! REAL Men join the Marines! Do all those things the Army does, AND get shot at at the same time...sometimes by the Army! MRE's? Canned liver and onions is all the food you need! Puts hair on your chest! Join now, make a Man of yourself today. The few, the proud...

Thanks for the update, Tim. I was starting to worry that no one cared about this issue anymore, and this meaningful thread would just die. I hope others here take up at least some of the cause as well.

Jimi - I can't really give a workout but I want to compliment you on knowing that a good diet is important to optimal health. So many athletes I come across, in almost any sport, treat their food intake as if they were feeding a garbage disposal. So I'm glad you understand the importance of this. The only help I can give on exercise is that I like bicycling, cross country skiing, and hiking hills with a pack. I think Courtenay on here said that it's most important to find what type of exercise works for you. The one you will do. And I agree.

While it most probably is an urban (mtn?) legend, crazier things have been done. Jim's the owner of Pro Mountain Sports and you could try to e-mail him. He might just laugh, or he might tell a crazy story that's the truth. Here's his e-mail addy: promountainsports@earthlink.net

Ade - I'm where you are and just getting into this. From what I know Lowell is correct on Silvertta bindings. But they make several different kinds. The 404 were the type that fit boots best a few years ago, but now the 500's seem to be what works with all climbing boots. Silveretta also makes others, but they seem hit and miss for boots. The November issue of Couloir has an article on AT bindings. For the cheapest prices go to www.barrabes.es or www.telemark-pyrenees.com or www.cham3s.com These places are all Euro, speak English and will ship to the US and have great deals. Silveretta 500's go for about $150 there. If you do buy from them, thank them for selling to US customers, as Black Diamond (and a few others I believe) are trying to bully them into not selling anything to US customers. Just like they did to MEC. If you aren't sure of what you need, look for sales and buy local. As to skis, if you're just looking to get in/up and then back/down, find a pair of the lightest used alpine you can afford/carry. They'll get the job done. A local used ski shop sells used skis for about $100-$200 on average. They also sell cheap skins for about $35. This cuts the package price down to $350 or so. 66% off from the $1,000 you noted. If you have more money to burn, Tua, BD (who I no longer buy from) and others make AT skis that are specialized for this type of skiing. Lighter, more camber, etc. Again, I am just getting into this and my advice comes from what others tell me and what I've read. Not from experience. Hope this helps.

Agree on Eiger Sanction. Clint's the man. It's a little dated, but still a great flick. I agree that K2 wasn't that bad. At least as Hollywood goes. The opening rock climbing scene was fantastic. Other climbing films (non-documentary): Seven Years in Tibet isn't really a clmbing movie, but I thought it was a great film. Five Days One Summer with Sean Connery was somewhat slow, but faithful to climbing in the Alps in the 30's. Down to the tweeds and hickory shafted axes. The Climb is supposed to be a very faithful film based on Buhl's climb on Nanga Parbat. I have not seen it, but it apparently takes place entirely on the peak. And many of the shots were done on or near Nanga Parbat itself! Filmed in the mid 80's I think. I have never seen The White Hell of Pitz Palu, but it's supposed to be very dramatic and a great story about a man whose wife disappears while the two are climbing. (Silent, but narrated, filmed in 1930!). Cerro Torre: Scream of Stone is supposedly one of Werner Herzog's weakest films, but much of it was shot in Patagonia. Two fair TV movies were: Storm and Sorrow. Based on Bob Craig's book of the American team going into the Pamirs in the 70's. Somewhat faithful to the book and actual events. Loved the guy that plays John Roskelley. Made for HBO I think. Not bad. High Ice. A film in the 80's about rescuers. I never saw this one, but heard it was okay from other climbers. Here are some of my favorite documentaries (I have about 30 on tape): Fairweather and Ascent - Jim Wickwire in Alaska. Great footage by Steve Marts. Eiger, Solo - Eric Jones on the Nordwand. Filmed by Leo Dickenson, the master. Everest, North Wall - 1982 US team. Marty Hoey's last climb. Shishipangma - Alex Lowe's last climb. The Ice Game - Jeff Lowe's history on ice. Too many other good ones to list.

Here's an idea: I am going to go to the premier showing. And you know how after big movies come out, sometimes the news shows up and asks people what they thought. I am going to find that news team and get in front of the camera and go, "Hi, I'm Snowleopard, and I am a real climber, and this is the most accurate film on climbing to date. For people who want to know what climbing is really like, this is the film." Look for me!

Some very funny posts! Yes, Jon, I probably was up waaaayyy too late if I was contemplating any values this film might be contributing to filmmaking history! It's obvious they are going for the 15-20 year old male crowd, the type that liked Cliffhanger. That and to make $$$$$, of course.

Pete, may I suggest you get an early start? The reason being that there has been no new snow since last week, and the freezing level will be higher this weekend than last (8,000' or so). By early I mean 5am at the latest. Other than that, the weather forecast looks good.

There might not be many posters now. But I know at least a few other people do look here. So yes, please post the trip to Cooper Spur.

While Die Hard, and Lethal Weapon weren't documentaries, I don't think VL will be that good of a story. And their being inaccurate portrayals of police work doesn't mean two wrongs make a right, excusing VL for falsely portraying climbing. Read on: Titanic is a better example. While hugely successful and widely praised, Titanic had not only a great story, but also was technically accurate. James Cameron was insistant that the film be historically accurate. He did it, and made a great movie. Also, what made Titanic (and many other films that were faithful and accurate to their subject: Backdraft, Boyz In The Hood, Unforgiven, Apollo 13, etc.) a good film was that it had all the elements that make a good story: Anticipation, superior position, hope versus fear, etc. Plus great character development and realism. Suspending accuracy was not necessary in order to further the story in an exciting and dramatic manner. Something that seems lost on the VL team (from everything I've heard so far). It's as if King, Campbell the rest involved had a few good ideas, and just put them to climbing. Then rely on action to further what appears to be a silly, unrealistic, and uncompelling story. With mountaineering only serving as a convenient backdrop.

The mountain is definately climbable up the South Side route (and probably West Crater, or even other routes) weather pending. Everything is frozen into place, and the 'schrund is still visible, but not gaping. My guess is that 10 teams went up this past weekend, all up the South Side (I checked the registry) and had good, but cold weather. Watch the weather if you're planning on giving it a go over the next few weeks. Also know that apparently no climbing Rangers are working on the mountain now. More than one team from Friday had not signed out, and those forms are almost always pulled by the USFS daily, yet they were still there.

Mike, I don't know either of those guys, but I can try to ask around. It's a fairly small, of not tight, community around here (Portland). For what it's worth, your name startled me. I actually know a guy from here named Mike Adamson that used to be a member of PMR!

I actually like Cytomax too. But I have to have it watered down. Either that, or I have to NOT use it as a substite for water, under any cirsumstance. Guzzle it, then leave it behind and go on my way with water in my bottle. I too like GU. But CliffShot's are my favorite of those types. Powergel are okay. Never tried JogMate (has protein). These (and Cytomax) are great for altitude when everything else you try to eat you just hurl. These, you can at least wash down. I'll have to check Trader Joes for those bars. I love that store to begin with! Has anyone ever tried the energy bars made by Melleleuca? (Same people that make tea and other health items). They say they have a patented product that helps burn more fats that the others don't have (doesn't PR* say the same though?). I tried them once, and they worked okay (again, most work okay with me), but they tasted awful. Has anyone here tried a strict PR* plan/diet? I actually bought a case once and I did find they lasted pretty long without bonking. Whether they burned more fat, I don't know. Anyone here try the Zone diet? Zone makes their own bars now, but they appear to be no different than Balance for the most part looking at the ingredients. And Balance tend to taste better.

Bagles. I vote for Bagles. They do the job pretty good for me, and they're priced to fit my budget. My take on energy bars has been that just about any type will do when you're hungry and about to hit empty. I have noticed a very, very small difference between the Balance type bar, and the full carb bar. Very slight. But for the most part, just keeping my body nourished with a balanced diet, and food on the go will do. As to taste? Well, original Powerbars are the worst. Ever. I keep one of these on hand at all times. Huh? You say! Why? I use it as last-chance, total desperation, near death from starvation, emergency food. I keep one of these as oppose to one of the other yummy kinds, because I know I won't ever eat the Powerbar as a "treat". It just sits there, waiting for the day I'm in a serious bind and really, really need it.

My favorite part is the opening tag line: "The highest mountain on Earth"...then a shot of K2. Or how about: Chris O, climing unacclimated, in full gear, doing a full sprint run over a cliff to avoid an avalanche. Or how about: The are going to save the others trapped in a cravasse by blowing them out with dynomite. Barry Blanchard (who worked with Ed Viesters as an advisor) said something to the effect, "There's only about 50 feet of climbing in the movie. But there's a lot of falling. So this isn't a climbing movie, it's a falling movie". And you thought Cliffhanger was absurd.

There are two main climbing gyms in Portland: The Rock Gym is located at 2034 SE Sixth (off Lincoln), (503) 232-8310. Stoneworks is at 6775 SW 111th, (503) 644-3517. The Rock Gym is a little larger, and has been around longer. Stoneworks is has more aesthetic surroundings.

My favorite place is the Mountain Shop. 628 NE Broadway st. (503) 288-6768. Jeremy is the manager, an outdoor wizzard and expert ski-mountaineer (once skied the Newton Clark Headwall on Mt. Hood! Yikes!). Generally good customer service overall too. www.mountainshop.net Oregon Mountain Community is located in downtown Portland. 60 NW Davis (503) 227-1038. Mixed CS IMO, but Steve there works part time and doubles up as a USFS Climbing Ranger on Mt. Hood. I'll try to look up their website. ClimbAxe at 3314 SE Hawthorne is a small store and a distrubitor for other local shops. Pure climbing stuff. Chris is the manager there. www.climbaxe.com US Outdoor Store is a downtown store stuffed full of clothing and some gear. 219 SW Broadway, (503) 223-5937. Mixed customer service has been my luck here. But they have a full website (albeit slow) www.usoutdoor.com For the greatest deals on samples, slightly used and pre-owned gear, The Next Adventure on 426 SE Grand (503) 223-0706 is superb. Owned by two very hard working guys. If you come to Portland you have to check this place out! www.next-adventure.com And of course there are two REI's here. I have actually gotten good CS at the Jantzen Beach store. [This message has been edited by snowleopard (edited 11-06-2000).]

After all of my spewing on bicycling I'm curious to know who here is into cross country skiing? I went last year for the first time in years, but when younger I even raced (not very good though). When I was doing that (and riding the bike in the summer) I am confident I was fitter than any other time in my life, by far. I once thought of moving to Anchorage or Fairbanks (or high up in the Cascades or Rockies) to a city within minutes of cross country skiing, as the sport is so great, and great for you. Plus, you'd have to figure if you're that close to that much snow, you'd have to be close to the mountains! There may not be enouch XC skiers here to get into a big discussion on it, but I thought I'd throw it out there.

The way I was taught (read) was that you subtly move your arms, wrists and grip while doing it. Grip facing in, then out, then in front of you, then back, but subtle. Yes, I agree that once a week is enough. I once read where a martial arts guy my size was doing it with 80lbs. I tried with a two 40's and thought, "this isn't that bad!". Then I went back and read he did 80lbs in EACH hand! One other grip strength exercise I have tried is using a pully system to do curls and back curls using one finger (in the biner on the cable). It was taxing, but seemed like a way to get hurt if not careful. This would be something to try only when fully warmed up, and with light weight. And at that, once a week would be plenty. Curious as to what Courtenay thinks of this odd one. One other is using a pully system like the pull up bar. But instead of the bar, putting a rope through the top biner (most gyms have these pre-made) gripping both ends of the rope with one hand, and doing a pull down, all the way down. (Did that make sense?) Has anyone tried this? I'm beginning to sound like a gym rat with all my babble here! Next thing you know I'll be signing up for step classes! LOL!

All true. No matter what sport one views as best, rest and strength (or should I say "cross") training are very important. Lance Armstrong would make a great mountaineer, he might never tire climbing. But it would be wise for him to do some training for it, to really get good at it. Though actually, with what he's been through I wouldn't bet against him even climbing Everest with no O's. 3-4 hours step training? Ugh! That's almost as crazy as the lunatic that rides his road bike in the wintery storms! Well, at least on the bike the view changes. I only wish I exercised that much. I once did, I overdid it actually. But now I work too much, and deal with life's other complexities. Hmmmm, looks like tomorrow is a good day for a hike or bike ride...

Here is some general beta for climbing the southernmost Cascade peaks, both in California. Mt. Shasta and Lassen Peak: Shasta is a very popular peak to bag for novice and expert climbers alike, with many routes to chose from. A few books exist on the peak that are worth looking into: Steve Lewis has a book for the absolute novice called "Climbing Mt. Shasta". Soon, Andy Selters "The Mt. Shasta Book" will be released, with more of a look at the complete mountain. Both peaks are also in Jeff Smoot's book Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes. Check local bookstores, or on line for more. The USFS Ranger District has website for info at: http://www.r5.fs.fed.us/shastatrinity For current conditions and beta the best place to check is the Fifth Season, in Mt. Shasta City. These guys really know the mountain more than anyone (530) 926-3606. They even have a 24-hour hotline: (530) 926-5555. ============== Lassen Peak is located in Lassen Volcanic National Park and has a steep trail to top (nearly, the last 100' are an easy scramble over boulders) that is hiked by many people every year. Information can be found at any ranger station or park entrance. Obviously, the hike is best done when leaving in the morning, and takes most people about 4-5 hours. Probably less for regular climbers. A few people with rocks in their head have even jogged to the top! This is the only route to the summit generally allowed by the NPS, which is disappointing because Lassen's other flanks, especially the east gullies, yeild good potential for moderate climbing. I would encourage anyone interested in pursuing this to contact the Park: Lassen Volcanic National Park Box 100 Mineral, California 96063 (530) 595-4444 Late spring, right after the roads open would be a great time to give it a go. And if the NPS does let you try, give me a call, I'd love to go!