bedellympian

Yeah it was warm and there were a lot of ice chunks coming down where March Madness is even though the sun had just hit it. We were definitely disappointed not to be able to try it as it looked awesome.

Trip: Mt.Hood- Illumination Rock - Rime Dog variation Date: 1/17/2013 Trip Report: My partner Edward Corder and I went up to Hood to check out Illumination Rock routes for the first time. We had the bad luck of catching the warmest day of the past 2 months. Still managed to get some sketchy climbing in before everything completely dissolved around us. Left car at 5ish. Poked around Illumination and eventually ended up climbing a lot of the same stuff as Rime Dog that Wayne Wallace TRed on. Reached the West Gable and rapped off the back side (one rap ~40m, on double ropes). Back at car by 3:45. We figured it was about AI4 with a short mixed section of about 5.8 rock half covered in rime (whatever that is in M rating). More details on the awful ice conditions and photos on my blog... Mountain Mischief Blog http://mountainmischief.blogspot.com/ Gear Notes: Double ropes, some old nuts and slings for rapping. Screws and pickets useless. Lack of common sense and large cahones were also handy. Approach Notes: Skis... which I don't recommend as it was super icy up and down. Just take 'pons and walk.

Looking at coming up from Oregon to climb North Face of North Peak. Does anyone know the current conditions or been up there recently? Also possibly looking at Dragontail Triple Couloirs. Any beta on that? Thanks!

Don't suppose anyone can give out directions and beta for this climbing area?

Thanks Matt, realistically I can only climb mid-week (9th to 11th). That said I might be able to get out cragging Sunday. If you can get out Tues/Wed/Thurs let me know and we can do something a bit bigger.

I will be in Bellingham WA on Oct 5/6/7 for a cross country race, and in Vancouver BC 7/8/9 visiting family. Thinking about maybe doing some quick objectives afterwards. Ideas are varied: Liberty Bell, Baker, Shuksan, Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Or maybe go to Squamish instead. I have a small Alpine rack, glacier travel gear, rope, etc. Just did Exum Direct in the Tetons two weeks ago. I'm pretty fit. Willing to lead up to moderate 5.10. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks!

Thanks for the tip. I have been going to their meetings and did hit up the gear swap. They seem like nice guys but lacking motivation and technical know-how. During the winter all I heard about was a campout on Tumalo and a couple snow shoes that were 4-6 miles round trip. Their summer schedule looks better but I'm hoping to hook up with some stronger and more knowledgeable people.

I just moved to Bend. Relative climbing novice (lots of outdoors experience and fitness) looking for partners. Craging at Smith and peak bagging in Cascades are my main objectives. I have no trad experience but want to learn. I have a handful of sport and gym exp. Know basic glacier travel and self-arrest technique. Comfortable with winter camping, back country skiing, scrambling, backpacking, etc.