bedellympian

yippe kai yay, hallelujah, etc etc etc that's great timing!

Thanks for all the input guys. Scared: My PGs were 45s. Recently tried Spantiks and think I could wear a 43 comfortably. I was under the impression that 6000s and Spantiks were comparable in warmth and use. Is this not correct? Now leaning toward a single boot, I guess, as it seems that would be more useful for me. I guess I can always wear vapor barrier socks and/or carry newspaper to keep the boot dry on multi-days. I have a wide fore foot but otherwise its skinny with a high arch... not really sure if this lends towards Scarpa or Sportiva more, or some other brand.

Mountain Mischief I've linked it on a few TRs but figured I'd post it here too. Trying tto get a good mix between some goofing non-serious stuff, and TRs. Please feel free to provide feedback! Thanks! Sam

I'm already climbing at WA pass. I was going to finish the trip with some stuff in Boston Basin so I need an alternative to that. By alpine I mean something that isn't roadside.

Hey guys, Just wanted to say thanks for posting. The input was super helpful. I ended up trying to climb a peak in the Delta Range (you might have seen the TR on here about a month ago). Other than that I got busy and didn't do too much climbing. Looks like I'll be back next year in August for a bit, but hopefully one of these years I'll make it in April or May and have some real fun!

Yowsers! Guess I need a backup Anyone know of a good Alpine route on the E side of 20? Mt. Goode NE Buttress via PCT from rainy pass? Something further South?

Thanks for the input Dave! I had heard that the new PG is thinner and colder. I also read the Spantik review on the cc blog which compared it to Scarpa Phantom series and said the less rockered toe on the Phantom is a downer for approaches. Since you own a pair what is your experience? Do you have the new orange PGs or the older red model? Anyone have experience climbing WI5 or M6 in Spantiks?

Just sold a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guides (older red model) because they were really too big for my feet. Need a mountaineering boot but not sure what to get. I have the money from selling the PGs and thought about getting Spantiks... overkill for most stuff I know, but they feel really good on my feet, climb well, and they have the removable liners so I can use them on multi day winter trips and be fine. Right now I have approach shoes and TLT5 ski boots so summer alpine rock routes and moderate winter routes with skiing are covered. I live in Oregon so the gnarliest routes I will get on with these boots will be hard Hood routes in winter. That said I have family in Alaska and visit most years so I will have the opportunity to climb up there in summer. Some of the routes I'd like to get on over the next couple years for which I will probably use these boots: March Maddness, Illumination Rock (WI4/5) North Face Right Gully, Mount Hood (IV, WI3) Arachnophobia, Mount Hood (IV, 5.9 AI4) Yocum Ridge, Mount Hood (IV, AI3, 60deg) North Ridge, Mount Baker (III+, 70+deg) Triple Couloirs, Dragontail Peak (III-IV, 5.8, 50+deg) Liberty Ridge, Mount Rainier (V, AI3, 50deg) North Face of North Peak, Mount Index (V, 5.7, steep mixed terrain) I know people probably have multiple boots but I'd like to stick with one good pair for now. Thoughts? Suggestions?

That was a pretty ridiculous video, looks like a complete load of media hype BS. Even so, there are so many derogatory comments on the youtube page I almost feel sorry for the guy. His ego must be completely crushed from a 1,000ft ground fall.

I was planning a trip up to do WA pass and Boston Basin climbs (from Bend). Probably come up the East side. Whats the easiest way from Mazama to Boston if 20 is closed? Steven's Pass? Should I just go to the Stuart Range and skip Boston? What's the take from North Cascades vets?

Sierra Granite! Awesome!

Trip: Smith Rock, Monkey Face - W Face Variation Date: 8/10/2013 Trip Report: John F and I climbed Monkey Face via W Face variation on Saturday. There was no one on the route. I guess that was because the forecast called for rain with a chance of thunder storms. It did rain and it did thunder but luckily the weather cleared up for a couple hours and we made the top. We took no aid gear or ascenders for the bolt ladder. We used a sling each for occasional feet and yarded on draws. With a good belayer this works well. Just make sure you think through your system first and are on the same page. We both cleared this pitch in less than 30 minutes. Heads up: at least two bolts are loose and look like they could go, we felt this added to the excitement but others may feel differently. Blog w/ pics, etc. http://mountainmischief.blogspot.com/2013/08/monkey-face-via-west-face-variation.html Gear Notes: single rack, lots of draws, rap line and regular rope Approach Notes: Asterisks Pass

Trip: Three Fingered Jack - South Ridge Date: 8/8/2013 Trip Report: Travis Holman and I climbed 3FJ Thursday morning. It was a surprisingly short approach and climb. There is much less 5th class than the slightly shorter neighbor, Mt. Washington, but the rock is much worse. Now that I have ticked it, I doubt I could be convinced to return unless it was frozen solid. There appeared to be good steep couloirs on both the E and W faces that might prove fun in winter. Blog post: http://mountainmischief.blogspot.com/2013/08/3fj.html Gear Notes: slings & nuts (I think we placed 6 or 7 pieces of pro on the whole thing) Approach Notes: PCT north from Santiam Pass

Wow, that is inspiring and awesome. Way to go for it and get a ton done in one week!

Trip: White Princess - Delta Range - W Ridge/M'ladies Glacier Date: 7/3/2013 Trip Report: My friend Eric and I reached a high point somewhere between 9000 and 8500 ft on the W Ridge of White Princess. We encountered rain, hail, snow, wind and low visibility conditions. We hiked in 12+ miles from the road on the Castner Glacier on July 2nd (7hrs). We camped on the glacier around 5,000ft. July 3rd we climbed to our highpoint. The route was mostly scree and talus with 1500ft of snow and ice between 40 and 50 deg. We returned to camp in 9hrs and hiked back out the way we had came in 5hrs. more details and photos... Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: 3 short axes and pons, a short rope and some pickets could have made the route to the summit more reasonable... its alaska so bring clothing for all conditions Approach Notes: Richardson Highway bridge over Castner River, follow river to glacier, follow glacier to 3 way branch (7.5 mile straight line), south/Milady branch to base of W Ridge (3 mile straight line)

I'm in Fairbanks through July 22nd (trip to Anchorage for about a week in early July). If anyone wants a crag partner for the interior or is interested in doing something more alpine let me know. Lead 5.10 trad/5.11 sport. Comfortable in mountains, limited glacier travel experience (I'm from Oregon).

So I'm in Alaska for about a month visiting friends and family (mainly Fairbanks but I'll be in Anchorage for a week or more). I don't have a partner yet (anyone interested?) but I am interested in climbing something while I'm here. Given my time and money I want something that I can do relatively quickly, without flying in. I am also relatively new to technical alpine climbing so it should probably be 5.9/AI3 or lower. I was thinking of something in the Chugach but maybe there are better objectives else where. Any ideas? My window is July 6-20 but I can only take 3-5 days total. Thanks!

Trip: Squamish - multiple Date: 6/12/2013 Trip Report: Caitlin and I met our friend Chris in Squamish for some rock climbing. It was our first time at Squamish. June 12th at Shannon Falls we climbed Skywalker (5p, 5.8) with rain on the first two pitches which turned into perfect weather as we got higher. We then climbed Klahanie Crack (5.7) and a 10a next to it. June 13th we climbed Diedre (6p, 5.8) on the Apron, car-car in 4 hours with a party of 3. June 14th we climbed Exasperator (2p, 5.10c) before packing up to leave. Blog post with pictures: Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: 2 70m ropes, double rack (nuts, small cams and camalots to #3) Approach Notes: Really short walks!

Trip: Mt. Washington - North Ridge rock via NW bowl Date: 6/1/2013 Trip Report: I climbed Mt. Washington on Saturday via the North Ridge. I camped at the PCT TH on Friday night and set out at 6am, sleeping in like a total slob. The climbers trail is still hidden by snow. I ended up on the flanks of the West Ridge and traversed into the NW bowl before beelining up to the base of the summit pinnacle on the North Ridge (40+ deg neve). The rock still has snow on it but it was soft enough to kick step so I climbed to the summit in guide tennies. I made two short raps w/ a 30m rope and down climbed the rest. Followed the North Ridge proper back. Still couldn't find the climbers trail in the trees. Got back to the car before 1pm. Car to car in under 7 hours, no record but seemed good under the circumstances. Blog post w/ photos: Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: Custom guide tennies thanks to the Gear Fix in Bend, strap-on pons, 2 tools (not necessary but its fun to pretend your Ueli Steck in that one video when you're climbing on steep snow), 30m 8mm half rope for raps, slings and leaver biners. Approach Notes: PCT south. I would start heading up/SE, off the trail, once you leave the burn. If you just keep going uphill you'll end up on the N ridge.

Looks like a fun route up there in WA. On Hood N Face what was your descent route? Cooper Spur?

Trip: Mt. Washington - West to North Ridge attempt Date: 5/22/2013 Trip Report: Edward Corder and I decided to try the North Ridge (standard route, 5.1-3 depending on who you ask) on Mt. Washington. We decided to go Wednesday because it fit our schedules best. The forecast called for 100% chance of snow, 1-2" of accumulation and 35mph winds. We went anyway and it turned out to be more like 12" of accumulation and 50mph winds. In some of the drifts around 7k' we were mid thigh and this must all have been within the past 24hrs. Pretty nuts. I'm sure it will be totally doable by this weekend but we missed the climbers trail, ended up on the W ridge and were looking at a 70deg traverse to get to the N ridge? Not sure, I couldn't see sh!t and the wind was side swiping us. We bailed, got lost in the woods and got back to the car eventually (compasses are useful!). I was going to write a celebratory essay on my blog called "how to make 5.1 fun" but instead I wrote more about how getting lost is lame: Mountain Mischief (there are also blurry pictures of half seen things through falling snow). Gear Notes: We brought some old school alpine rock pro. Two tools would have been nice and a couple pickets but only if you go up the wrong ridge and have to do that traverse thingy. Approach Notes: The climbers trail is invisible, I would just beeline it, if you can see. We just wore boots, no slow-shoes or skis. Fresh snow is consolidating fast and 6" or less on PCT so your not breaking trail until up on the mountain.

Yeah! We slayed that sh*T! How is Shasta going?

Glad to see you stayed busy after the Trinities. Reminds me I still have plenty to do on THE MOUNTAIN HOOD.

Trip: Mt. Shasta - Casaval Ridge w/ Avy Gulch skit descent Date: 4/23/2013 Trip Report: The same day I soloed Cosmic Wall at Castle Crags (see my last TR) I drove to Mt Shasta and camped at the Bunny Flats TH. I left the car at ~6:30am the next morning (yay for sleeping in!). I skinned to Casaval Ridge and climbed that. West Face looked like it had lots of exposed rock. Misery Hill is totally bare. I tagged the summit around 1pm and skied from the bottom of Misery. Reached the car before 3pm. Blog post with embellished storyline and pictures... Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: AT skis, pons, ice axe, big quadricep muscles Approach Notes: Skin to ridge from Bunny Flats TH.

Trip: Castle Crags - Cosmic Wall Date: 4/22/2013 Trip Report: I stopped at Castle Crags, just of I-5 in NorCal, and climbed Cosmic Wall (5.6, 800ft) which everyone raves about. It was fun, really easy. The hardest part is getting over to one of the belay ledges but since I wasn't belaying that wasn't a problem. Great position, I highly recommend the arete variation on the last pitch. The crux was definitely route finding in the manzanita bushes below. The summit log is totally full and also wet (plastic container needs replacing or something) so I was denied my single sentence of written summit glory. I also scrambled up Castle Dome on the way down (its N or E face looks like it has awesome potential). Also, the state park rangers have a single copy of a beat-up old climbing guide published in '91 at visitor center/gate house (only open on weekends right now). Some photos on my blog... Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: 70m rope for the rap (you only need a 60 and both stations are well bolted), if you were using pro: lots of small nuts and slings Approach Notes: Castle Dome/crags trail from Vista Parking Lot (2.7 miles, 2200 ft), manzanita bushwhack on "climbers trail" to base, practically no snow or water, already really dry up there.