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Everything posted by bedellympian

  1. [TR] Liberty Cap - Ptarmigan Ridge C2C 07/11/2020

    Warning: Kyle took a lot of these and I was being a goof Leaving the car Switching to boots at the snow line above Glacier Basin Coming up from Carbon Bivy sites on P Ridge Route pictures pre/post sun, note moon which helped with night nav Schrund pitch L of regular start involved loose conglomerate that was verglassed and frozen just enough Coming up lower snow section Icey ramp leading to rock step rock step Kyle suffering on the upper slog I think I was eating a bar but the silhouette is funny Sundog Not many pics of the descent, didn't stop on Lib Cap, just kept going
  2. Hood South Side TRs

    So this probably makes me sound like an elitist prick, but can we just ban S Side of Hood TRs? I mean, seriously, I think there are enough now. If someone sees conditions that are irregular or parties dumb enough to still be long-lining they could just post a picture on the Climbers board or Ice Conditions thread? I get that people are proud of their first alpine climb, or whatever (and this is where I'm an elitist !#*%) but I think that maybe we could stop over-sharing and just text our close friends and family a summit-selfie. I bet they'd be proud... *cringing in the fetal position under my work desk, awaiting the backlash*
  3. Camping around GTNP

    There are plenty of forest service roads E of the Park, that's the car bivy spot for a lot of guides and other dirt bags. I'll be there around the same time. I don't have a partner everyday. HMU if you want to meet up for a some climbing.
  4. Glacier Peak conditions?

    Have not been but I would check the forecast. It is not clearing anytime soon... Also, if it does clear, consider checking caltopo's daily satellite imagery to get an idea of snow. location. A friend of mine skied Black Peak a couple days ago and had snow to the car, but the forecasted rain will change that quick.
  5. Hood South Side TRs

    Thanks for putting my bull-kaka in perspective folks (and not ripping me too hard in the process). To be fair, I really enjoy TRs about "easy" routes and people learning. I especially enjoyed MA and Collin's early TRs, but they were also on routes that had (and mostly still have) few TRs. I hope people continue to post TRs on a variety of routes, easy or otherwise. I just hope people get a little more adventurous and go do something other than the second most popular volcano route on the whole planet. Especially given the many great options we have here in the PNW.
  6. Lost: Ice Tools on Wy'East Face - Mt. Hood, OR

    Check again in July, they might be buried in rime. Also, check to the E side of the route in case they got blown off?
  7. Need help recovering Stolen Gear

    Where was it stolen? What was the scenario? Edit: saw the timeline at the end. How long was your car parked at SBP?
  8. Spring Ice in the PNW

    Most water ice will be melted out by now, or if still in it will be sketchy to climb. That includes things like Triple Coulouirs and North Face R Gully. Things that climb year-round ice features such as Baker's N Ridge will be the go to.
  9. Most REAL experiences climbing

    1. Down soloing the W Ridge of Inspiration in the Pickets after a day of soloing choss. I got off route and cut feet climbing down an overhanging prow. Luckily all the holds held my weight. Then I dislodged several large blocks just above the schrund and pinned my foot. I was able to shove them off and simultaneously lunge out of the way as they came down. I was pretty f*#%ing done with sketch ball shit for a while after that, but surprisingly still hung it out more than I should have for a few years. 2. Rapping off Waddington with a core shot rope that we had to cut and having to build some not-inspiring additional rap anchors, including one on a scary detached flake with no other options that we used to rap a full 30 m free hanging section to get over the schrund onto the upper Bravo Glacier. 3. Final hard aid pitch on RNWF of Half Dome by headlamp and taking an upside down whipper when a small cam blew out of a pin scar. Then having to go up there again, re-place the cam, put a foot in the cam's sling and stand on that one foot balanced against the blank rock to clip the next piece with that cam at mid-shin. 4. Taking my wife up a 5.7 R route called Amphetamine Grip at Smith which I had never done (thought it would be fun for her on TR) and ended up having my last piece (crap nut) pop out leaving me a full 30m above my last piece on blank slab for the crux top-out moves. At the time I was only on-sighting about 5.9 consistently so it felt pretty heady. 5. Gerber-Sink after a 6" dump with crazy spindrift as one of my first technical winter routes was full-on. 6. Climbing Cali Ice in the Beartooths with skis on the pack this past winter with gnarly spindrift conditions felt real. So did climbing Twisted in 60mph winds in the Canadian Rockies this past season. 7. Climbing Rime Dog on I-Rock on a day that ended up being unexpectedly warm and heavily rimed conditions. I think we placed two pieces in 4 pitches. Belays were just standing on rime mushrooms and the belayer was supposed to jump off the other side if the leader fell. I could think of others but that's the initial few that come to mind...
  10. Solo TR Setups?

    Nothing I've heard of. Lots of good options out there. Be smart, triple check everything. The only thing I'd add to your synopsis is that a non-toothed top device is typically cheaper and reduces chance of sheath damage. If you're using Micro-traxs conider shaving off the little tooth the locks the device open so it can't accidentally happen while you're climbing. Old head lamp band around the neck works great for keeping the top device high and away from the lower one.
  11. Sent you guys an email. Would be happy to share some stuff in OR if you are interested.
  12. Looking at new boots for lower 48 winter climbing (Cascades alpine routes and Rockies ice/mixed). I've used Nepals for years and am finally thinking I should get something lighter that also climbs better. I have a relatively wide forefoot but otherwise a low volume foot with a high arch. This would ideally be used for everything from dry tool sport cragging to long waterfall ice routes in the Rockies to alpine routes in the Cascades. I know nothing is perfect but a light, dry, war, durable boot that climbs and hikes well would be ideal. I'm currently considering Arc'teryx Acrux but concerned about how well it climbs (at least well enough to crank WI5 M7 without being a disadvantage?). Also, the Scarpa Phantom Tech but concerned about durability of the sole and zipper (yes this thing needs to be able to hike on dirt, scramble rocks, and get put through the wringer). Was looking at the LaSportiva G5 but that thing seems to be crap in water resistance so I'm probably ruling it out? Unless there is a good mod to fix that? Thoughts?
  13. I've had major slides happen in the Crook Cirque/Crater of BT as well. That thing is a solar oven and slides easy once the sun is out. Going up that E ridge to the summit would have been interesting, I've come in a little L of where you guys were. It is surprisingly decent rock, but legitimate climbing in that vicinity.
  14. Trying to fit all the gear for two people into my tiny Hyundai Accent for a week on the Parkway. I don't have a roof rack, and am strongly considering just ratcheting kayak straps through the car and strapping the skis to those with some cardboard to protect the paint job. I'm sure I can make it work but I'm concerned about the border (they like to give young bearded guys the shakedown and I like that beard when its cold and snowy) and wonder if they can/will deny entry due to this sort of thing. Anyone have experience with this?
  15. Makeshift Roofracks at the Border Xing

    Hyundai accent in that year has only one type of discontinued rack that works for it. I have been looking. Also, I will probably only use the rack once a year at most so the investment is better spent elsewhere.
  16. Thule roof rack fittting

    I have a Thule roof rack (bars/towers) for an Isuzu Trooper. They are not supposed to fit on a Hyundai Accent but the dimensions seem similar. Anyone tried to put a roof rack on a car its not meant for? What was your experience?
  17. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Found some ice on the East side of the Steens this past weekend. Approaches are fairly difficult but any cliff bands higher than 6500' with feeder snow slopes will probably yield something until the next major warm cycle. The couloir skiing was quite nice too. Anyone been in here before?
  18. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Strawberries in Oregon have some ice. A little thin/sunbaked on 2/1 compared to previous visits. Some good stuff on the shadier aspects.
  19. Tajikistan

    Hey Jesus, If you could pass on the name of that agency and what you did for accommodations I would much appreciate it. Thanks, Sam
  20. Tajikistan

    Anyone climbed here? Who did you use for logistics/porters/transport? Permit situation? Safety/security? Access to some peaks is along the Afghan border. Seems like its been done by westerners but not often. Looks like major peaks have all had multiple names as the political situation has changed (one peak I'm interested in seems to have been called at least 4 things at different times). Any resources for figuring out what is what? What has been done? Etc. (AAJ is pretty scarce on this topic and I can't read Russian). Thanks, Sam
  21. [TR] North Sister - E Buttress 12/28/2019

    Here are some bad pics to prove we were there and shiz like that...
  22. Ice / Alpine partners

    Where are you located?
  23. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Given the current weather I'm guessing we will have to wait a bit...
  24. Rainier North Side Routes

    Looking for a partner to do a quick ascent of either Lib Ridge or Ptarmigan Ridge. Looking for experienced and fit individuals. PM me if interested. -Sam