bedellympian

Trip: Colchuck Peak - Colchuck Glacier w/ ski descent Date: 3/9/2013 Trip Report: I went up to Leavenworth over the weekend to try Triple Couloirs on DT. Stuff din't really work out and we never got on the route. I did climb Colchuck Peak via the Colchuck Glacier and ski down from the col between DT and CC. Conditions were amazing for skiing. Spent two nights out there. Check out pretty pictures and read more of the specifics here... Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: Well what we actually used... tools, pons, skis. Approach Notes: Skis... not recommended unless you are actually skiing as supposed to climbing. The approach is rough and difficult, snow shoes are better.

It was nice to meet all of you guys Saturday. I was the skier from Bend you talked to. The skiing was fantastic from the Colchuck/Dragontail col, almost made up for skinning in on all that rough terrain. Nice blog post too! Also, we ran into two parties on the way out... One had climbed the NE Buttress(?) of Colchuck (5.8 in summer) and thought it was a first winter ascent (can anyone confirm or deny?). Another group was headed out to climb Sherpa Pk. So that explains some of those cars.

Yeah Marsupial Traverse is lots of 4th on lousy rock. You can bypass Living Blindly on the Traverse and cut off a couple pitches by going direct up the Tail. That pitch plus the first two to gain the Mudpile are the only ones where traditional belays are really necessary (ie harder than 5.5 one move slab pitches). It is a fun way to link a lot of realestate and practice your alpine rock skills. If you are used to North Cascades alpine climbing don't bother but if you live in the area and want a cool adventure climb its worth it. If you do Birds in a Rut there is a lot of scree so linking it after Thin Air (5.10 3P) or Round River Direct (5.8 3P) makes for an awesome day. Also, Ivan, I didn't mean to literally jump off the Wombat! I was just referring to the shortness of the downclimb, bad use of terminology! You could also stick a cam in the crack by the down climb. #3 camalot maybe? You could "rap" off that and still reach up and take it out to prevent the sprained ankle. Although I guess you might as well just use the rap station at that point! Ideally we'd just get some real chains up there.

Trip: Smith Rock - Multiple Date: 2/27/2013 Trip Report: Wednesday I went to Smith spur of the moment to solo some stuff. My original goal was to solo South Buttress of Brogan Spire in the Marsupials (5.5X 3P). I somehow confused this with West Face of Brogan in the guide book (also 5.5X 3P) so climbed that instead. I ended up down climbing top 2P of South Butt, rapping to dirt, and climbing Living Blindly to top of Opossum (5.7 3P). Rapped off the recommended anchors on Opossum but they are awfully placed and rope would not pull. Climbed 5.5ish ramp system back up, tossed off rope, downclimbed. I then climbed Round River Direct up the Koala (5.8 3P) and Birds in a Rut up the Wombat (5.7 Watts calls 6P but really a 4P). Someone decided to replace the rap webbing on Wombat but left cut pieces of the old webbing on the summit. They also replaced the webbing with a tiny sewn runner girth hitched to the bolt hanger. If you are going to replace a rap anchor like this please do a good job and don't leave a bigger mess for the next folks! Also, worth noting that the down climb is VERY EASY (read walk off with a jump down to a flat dirt patch with no exposure) If you can climb Birds it won't be an issue, don't waste your time threading the rope. Scree surfing back down the side of Wombat and Koala is the mandatory descent from there. Not wanting to rehike the trail I boulder hopped the river (its low right now) and climbed some basalt crack up to the rim of the gorge. This puts you in the parking lot and halves the approach hike. Check out photos and more typity typity typing on my blog... Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: Nuts and a big enough rucksack to hold them. Approach Notes: Cross the bridge and turn right, follow signs to Burma Road.

Trip: Crook Glacier, Broken Top, Sisters Wilderness - Crook Glacier attempt Date: 2/28/2013 Trip Report: I headed up to Broken Top last Sunday. The forecast called for 28F. I wanted to try summit Broken Top from the south via the Crook Glacier and ski down as much as was feasible. Weather was way warmer than expected (60+!?). I watched a large avalanche on the south face and saw lots of other signs of unstable snow. After skiing around the glacier I got a short run on a NE aspect and went home. It's been a warm couple months but hopefully March will cool off and provide good skiing and climbing conditions in the area. You can check out photos and my melodramatic dribble about the trip on my blog... Mountain Mischief Gear Notes: AT skis that are well waxed for sticky warm snow. I had vert dual point pons and tools but didnt use them. Given the right conditions you could do any type of climbing and skiing you want... if you are willing to pack in the gear. Approach Notes: Park at Bachelor, XC ski trail to Flagline, snow mobile road to wilderness boundary at Ball Butte, b-line for the glacial bowl from there. Hitching rides with snow mobilers helps.

Yeah it was warm and there were a lot of ice chunks coming down where March Madness is even though the sun had just hit it. We were definitely disappointed not to be able to try it as it looked awesome.

Trip: Mt.Hood- Illumination Rock - Rime Dog variation Date: 1/17/2013 Trip Report: My partner Edward Corder and I went up to Hood to check out Illumination Rock routes for the first time. We had the bad luck of catching the warmest day of the past 2 months. Still managed to get some sketchy climbing in before everything completely dissolved around us. Left car at 5ish. Poked around Illumination and eventually ended up climbing a lot of the same stuff as Rime Dog that Wayne Wallace TRed on. Reached the West Gable and rapped off the back side (one rap ~40m, on double ropes). Back at car by 3:45. We figured it was about AI4 with a short mixed section of about 5.8 rock half covered in rime (whatever that is in M rating). More details on the awful ice conditions and photos on my blog... Mountain Mischief Blog http://mountainmischief.blogspot.com/ Gear Notes: Double ropes, some old nuts and slings for rapping. Screws and pickets useless. Lack of common sense and large cahones were also handy. Approach Notes: Skis... which I don't recommend as it was super icy up and down. Just take 'pons and walk.

Looking at coming up from Oregon to climb North Face of North Peak. Does anyone know the current conditions or been up there recently? Also possibly looking at Dragontail Triple Couloirs. Any beta on that? Thanks!

Don't suppose anyone can give out directions and beta for this climbing area?

Thanks Matt, realistically I can only climb mid-week (9th to 11th). That said I might be able to get out cragging Sunday. If you can get out Tues/Wed/Thurs let me know and we can do something a bit bigger.

I will be in Bellingham WA on Oct 5/6/7 for a cross country race, and in Vancouver BC 7/8/9 visiting family. Thinking about maybe doing some quick objectives afterwards. Ideas are varied: Liberty Bell, Baker, Shuksan, Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Or maybe go to Squamish instead. I have a small Alpine rack, glacier travel gear, rope, etc. Just did Exum Direct in the Tetons two weeks ago. I'm pretty fit. Willing to lead up to moderate 5.10. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks!

Thanks for the tip. I have been going to their meetings and did hit up the gear swap. They seem like nice guys but lacking motivation and technical know-how. During the winter all I heard about was a campout on Tumalo and a couple snow shoes that were 4-6 miles round trip. Their summer schedule looks better but I'm hoping to hook up with some stronger and more knowledgeable people.

I just moved to Bend. Relative climbing novice (lots of outdoors experience and fitness) looking for partners. Craging at Smith and peak bagging in Cascades are my main objectives. I have no trad experience but want to learn. I have a handful of sport and gym exp. Know basic glacier travel and self-arrest technique. Comfortable with winter camping, back country skiing, scrambling, backpacking, etc.