BootsandPants

Ah; I'm not really familiar with the route, but after looking at it, I see that this can be frustrating as hell. I was more making generalizations.

It's a two way street; slow parties should realize their situation and let a fast party pass (generally), but the fast party should also respect the wishes of the party ahead and not try to jump the line without cooperation from the slow party. Yeah, it sucks when one of the groups isn't cooperating, but as the lower party on route, deal with it. If a slow party isn't letting you pass, and there is no other alternative to get around them, either wait or bail and come back another day. Snaking the line and/or fucking up their climbing by intermediate belay stations etc. is even worse in ethics than not letting a faster party pass. If you do pass, be damn well sure you're faster. Few things would piss me off more than letting a group pass just to be waiting behind them at the next belay. I've been on both ends of the scenario. I've wanted to pass slow teams who wouldn't let me, so I just waited. I was frustrated, but other than me being a little pissed, no safety concerns. They got up earlier than me, so I dealt with it. I've also had a guy pass me, even though I asked him not to (there was a line for the route...wait your fucking turn) and he proceeded to cluster up my line, tangle their rope in mine, and his two followers were fucking with my gear. The rope tangles and idiotic followers (and leader for that matter) were a safety concern. Probably the extreme example, but even if it wasn't clustered, I'd have found it rude. Wake up earlier or come back later. Bottom line; party in front has the right of way. If they don't want to let you climb through, and you can't get around them on another line, wait or bail.

I've climbed on the 8.9 version loads of times in the alpine for the past two years. Good rope for that application, and they seem to be doing well. I'd guess that the 8.7 would be great for that too, just be mindful of where the rope is going over rocks and avoid any overly sharp edges. Also, make sure your, and your partner's, belay devices can handle a rope that thin. I'd recommend one with teeth to add friction as they can get a little zippy on rappel.

I've got one on my Matrix and don't mind it at all. Sure it doesn't rotate as well due to the little plastic bump, but it's good enough for alpine routes where I'd like to be able to plunge the axe in the snow or use piolet canne; something a nomic doesn't to too well. You can always file down that bump if it's really messing with your mojo. It does not stow at the top of the axe; it slides freely. While this seems like a pain, it's really not. The slider slides up when plunging into snow, and rests at the base of the shaft when not. I like it better than Petzl's locking variation.

Thanks. Glad everyone made it out OK.

Questionable decisions aside (and glad you and your daughter are OK), this here; What was the outcome of this? I couldn't find anything using the googles.

I used an exped UL down pad this winter. I thought it was warmer than the neoair I used in the past.

Dave Paige does good work and usually turns them around in less than a week. I've had him do my last 4 resoles and am happy with the results.

Another option would be Timex. I've been using the Timex expedition watch (WS4) for the past few years. Worked great and easy to use once you learn it. Huge face and numbers make reading it easy, and the elastic band lets me wear it easily on my bare wrist or on the top of clothing. Not having to take gloves off and roll up multiple sleeves to check the time/altitude is much nicer than I had ever expected. I've beaten the shit out of it for the past two years and it's worked great. Battery finally died though a month ago. The only draw back is that it's pretty big, blocky, and not really "fashionable". I certainly don't give a crap about that, but I know some people do.

Awesome, I'm jealous! We thought about skiing over there during our stay over new years this year, but the conditions just weren't right at the time. Instead we stared longingly at that face and played on Winchester instead. Sounds like a great trip!

I keep a Trango Piranah clipped to my harness pretty much every time I climb outside. Small, light, cheap, sharp. While on a biner, the knife can't open; handy for not accidentally stabbing yourself. I've used it for the past few years and it hasn't dulled too much. Does most climbing jobs (cutting webbing, bandages, and rope) very well. Handy little thing to have in a pinch, plus it has a bottle opener as a bonus. If I'm on a longer trip, I'll carry a dedicated knife (Benchmade) for camp tasks, otherwise the little trango works great for climbing. http://www.trango.com/paraphernalia/Piranha_Climbing_Knife

Astroglide. Small and compact, goes on easy in the field, glides like no other. Being serious; I keep a little square of swix base prep wax in my pack and it works fine to rub on when things get gloppy. Either that or the red/yellow CH wax would be fine for the warmer stuff. I usually don't have a bunch of the warmer CH on hand, so I just use base prep most of the time. I find that a light hot wax on the skins goes a long way to fight glopping, especially now in the spring when the temps are rising.

Wow, that's awesome! Way to take advantage of that weather window!

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Sterling-Rope-Wicked-Good-Rope-Wash_10026751_10208_10000001_-1_ Bought a couple of these the last time I ordered something through them. It works pretty well the few time's I've used it, and for $2.50 a wash, ain't breaking the bank.

I did a 20 footer on near vertical once. Like CFF said, hurt my neck more than anything. Wear an alpine turtleneck? I'd prefer not to do it again, but it works and you won't die if you do it right/take it slow. Didn't ruin my pants or shirt.

I have wide feet and have made TLT5s work. Lots of shell work, but now they're the most comfortable boots I've ever worn. Props to the guys at Proski for dealing with my constant reshaping of the boot (3 times). Technica is one of the few boots that fit my feet out of the box. They have a touring line now, albeit not the lightest stuff. May be worth taking a look at.

I picked up one off of SAC for about $200 a few months back. I needed something of this weight, and it fit the warmth, weight, and cost bill pretty well. Might not be the be all end all down jacket, but I'm happy with it. The mesh stash pockets are pretty great, and I haven't had a problem throwing it on over layers. I'm 5'9", 175 and the M fits well even with my full "holy shit cold" layers (base, NWA hoody, Atom LT, Atom SV). Hood and hem draw string isn't that great, but works well enough for me. The cuffs are the best I've felt on any jacket on the market. Most importantly though, it keeps my sweaty ass warm and drys me out when I stop moving. Would I buy it for full retail? Nope; but then again I have a hard time paying full retail for any of these super expensive pieces (unless they're really, really worth it). I think it's a good "belay weight" piece though, and while not ground breaking, worth it if you can find it on sale or pro-deal one.

A Keg of Rainier Beer on Rainier at Camp Muir.

5. Sloan west buttress "adventure" climb. The climbing wasn't special, but the constant uncertainty and good partner made it fun 4. NF of Chair; first real alpine "ice" climb for me. Nice bit of pucker from finding practically no pro on route. Lots of learning 3. Guiding on Rainier for a charity climb. DC route wasn't anything spectacular, but helping raise ~$40k to help Nepalese children was definitely incredible. 2. Spending two nights (including new years eve) in the Winchester mountain lookout, skiing everything in sight. 1. Squamish Buttress linked from Rock On. While not cutting edge, it was by far the most fun day of climbing I had this year

Took it through AAI about this time last year. Top notch instruction, had a good time, and even learned a few things. Kurt was one of my instructors and did an excellent job.

Yup. West ridge is a mellow climb that a lot of people really enjoy. I think it's 5.4 (maybe 5.6 I don't remember) in a few spots but mostly scrambling. I'd recommend that route over ascending the cascadian if you have the means to climb it. Best, most pain free, way to time it would be to get the WR snow free with snow in the cascadian. Depending on the snow levels, that might happen late June-ish to early July (correct me if I'm wrong)?

I've slept in the grassy area by the picnic tables by the climbers bivy a few weekends this year with no issues. I don't set up a tent or anything though, and am usually gone around 7am so YMMV

Cool! I think this is a fun route that often gets overshadowed by the Bergner-Stanly.

The stream/spring on the bench was there this time last year. There's a fairly well defined track over to the left if you're facing the col from the large clearing on the bench. That should take you right to it.

Nice pictures. Those shots on the fin make me want to get up there!