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Everything posted by BootsandPants
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[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/28/2012
BootsandPants replied to BootsandPants's topic in Alpine Lakes
Haha, totally forgot about that picture! Nothing like hiking the chief in the pouring rain with a bunch of girls in spandex and cutoffs. -
[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/28/2012
BootsandPants replied to BootsandPants's topic in Alpine Lakes
We didn't set our anchor right at the base of the climb, so it wasn't 35m on pure ice. We belayed was a little off to the side and below the moat as to let the others avoid the brunt of the ice fall. I'd say I was a good 25-30ft on ice at least until I could get a screw in. I didn't have any 10s either, only 13s so something may have worked lower. For sure. I'd like to get one but they seem to have run out of stock according to the interwebz That explains why it was thin and I couldn't get a screw in! -
[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/28/2012
BootsandPants replied to BootsandPants's topic in Alpine Lakes
Been loving every swing! I've had my doubts with using them on alpine routes, but so far I wouldn't think I'd want anything else. I really dig the pack and how clean and simple it is. Always thought I needed side compression straps in order to carry stuff like pickets and snowshoes, but with a little creativity it's not an issue at all anymore. The thing sits well on my back and feels like an extension of my body when I climb. It's a really well designed piece. Mon was complaining about her pack on the slog up and I think I convinced her to give it a look. Thanks for bringing this awesome pack option to us here in NA. -
[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/28/2012
BootsandPants replied to BootsandPants's topic in Alpine Lakes
Thanks guys, we had a blast! Those be ergos -
Trip: Chair Peak - North Face Date: 1/28/2012 Trip Report: Niki and Monica had taken a bit of a break from climbing for the past few months after climbing in Chamonix in September, but they really wanted to get back out and climb something to get back into the swing of things. Much talk over beer the previous weekend had us looking at Chair Peak with its various alpine challenges. Also, none of us had climbed it before...adventure time! With the weather looking halfway OK, we set out on a brisk Saturday morning from the Alpental parking lot around 745. Accidentally following the wrong set of tracks led us to a camp and a rather surprised couple who had spent the previous night somewhere off the beaten path. Sorry guys... The morning was off to a wonderful start! [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--rSwB29YFEc/TyfsQyQOuMI/AAAAAAAABII/iC6t47hTYrE/s720/DSC00382.JPG[/img] Looking for radio signals...or aliens We reached the notch by the north east buttress around 1000 and noted that there were two other teams going for the north face before us. We geared up in no real hurry to let them climb high on the route, ate some pizza, joked with some skiers, and looked at the NEB. It was definitely in and the waterfall bit near the top looked pretty fat. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YgDLWuuXd3Q/TyfsQHg_M5I/AAAAAAAABIA/W23hbeoJZGc/s720/DSC00383.JPG[/img] Enjoying the Alpental Valley After what seemed like forever, we moved over to the first pitch of the climb. We decided to wait a little more as there was a ton of ice pelting the first pitch of ice from the two teams above. With a loud crack, Monica took a good sized chunk off of the helmet, which scared us a bit. We discussed our options and decided to wait a bit longer to hopefully lessen the steady stream of missiles heading in our direction. We thought about just doing the NEB instead, but since none of us had really looked at any beta for the route we chose to just stick to the plan and simul the north face. Eventually I lead out when the bombardment stopped. The first pitch was great. Sustained steep ice for a good 15-20m. Too thin in most spots to get any sort of screw in though. About 10m into the pitch, the ice attach started again. Not much to do but swing and kick in hard, turtle behind my tools and helmet and just wait until the storm stopped. It wasn't until Niki called out "half rope!" that I found ice even close to taking a screw. It seemed solid, but not wanting to linger in the firing zone and have the opportunity to test my screw, I moved on. The first pitch went slowly by. Make a few moves, turtle and get beat up by falling ice, make a few more moves, turtle again...repeat. I was moving a little slow, making sure my sticks and feet were good as I didn't trust that screw to hold much, but moving slow meant more time getting hit with ice. As I turtled, I kept waiting for that one ice chunk that would send me off of my points, giving me the one way express ride to the base of the climb. I swore at myself for doing something that was probably stupid, but the above snowfield was close. Pushing my worry and fear down and sacking up, I pulled over the last bit of vertical ice, slammed a picket into the snow, and kept moving...always looking upward and dodging ice. We finally made it to the bit of trees, which I thankfully slung to bring Niki and Monica up behind in order to reset the lead. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u3Bw9rYWY2g/TyfsUoFGEPI/AAAAAAAABIQ/B_OY2EBZMA4/s720/DSC00387.JPG[/img] Niki on her way through the trees [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4ZGLRcF6B_Q/Tyfsa5I9WQI/AAAAAAAABIg/BJwDaOasIOI/s912/DSC00388.JPG[/img] Monica down below our first belay. After getting some gear back and taking a bit to rewarm our fingers, I lead out again. The topout was no more than 45m away with one shorter section of vertical/near vertical ice, and the two parties before us had topped out, so no more playing dodgeball with the mountain. Easy climbing compared to what we just went through. I set a belay in a notch between the cornice and the summit block. The cornice isn't fully formed yet and easy to get over. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Aegcz1zmrr0/TyfsY0S9l-I/AAAAAAAABIY/E-FAdyfJtSI/s720/DSC00386.JPG[/img] Looking up the last pitch bit The weather has turned at this point and it was getting really windy as the clouds began to envelop the peak. We unroped and ran up to tag the summit and snap a quick picture, but didn't linger. The winds were growing stronger by the second and we wanted to get down before the weather got much worse. The descent was uneventful (found the right gully) and we ended up rappelling back down into the basin below instead of downclimbing. Luckily the rain held off and it was rather pleasant for the romp back to the car. Out of wet clothes by 1800. It was an awesome climb with some good exposure and definitely some pucker at places. I'm glad Niki and Monica got back out there and we had a great time. Here's to more successful climbs in the future! [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7sdHZQov9Mc/TyfsemDEZRI/AAAAAAAABIo/1FiHYGs_QFY/s912/DSC00389.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: only used two 13cm screws, 4 pickets, some slings for trees Approach Notes: Don't crash a romantic night in the woods and stick to the trail
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gear to donate: rock climbing shoes and bags
BootsandPants replied to spionin's topic in The Yard Sale
Outdoors for All is an awesome organization that has a summer rock climbing program. They're generally always in need of stuff, so I'm sure some of your gear can be put to good use. The link should be to the contact page, shoot them an email if you're interested. Great organization to get involved with too. -
I've been using the G3 Tonic since it was introduced three years ago and have really liked it. Fat enough underfoot to get great flotation, but not too much so that it's a chore to get on edge. It's not ultralight, but it's light enough. I think it skis much better through variable conditions than any other ultralight ski in it's width category.
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PM sent
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January 18, 2012: Site Closed for SOPA and PIPA Aw
BootsandPants replied to olyclimber's topic in Climber's Board
Looks like the vote has been postponed. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-16655272 -
I know this is a long shot, but figured I'd throw it out there anyway. Selling my like new Canon 7D DSLR camera. Bought this last year and did not end up using it as much as I had hoped. The body only has about 3k cycles on the shutter, and it is in immaculate condition. The photography hobby turned into the climbing hobby, and this has sat unused on my desk for over six months as I can't justify keeping it around. This is an excellent camera for the price and should be out being used. Everything that came in the original box (and the box itself) is included: - Camera Body - Battery - Battery Charger - Neck Strap - Blank Warranty Card etc I will include a Sandisk Extreme 4GB CF card and a Lowe Pro TL1 case with the camera as well if you want them. Price: $1300 In addition to the camera, I also have a Canon 17-40mm L f/4 USM lens for sale. The lens is in perfect condition and has had a UV filter installed since purchase. A great lens with good range to take climbing, and it's the lightest in it's focal range. Always took amazing shots for me. Price: $600 if with camera body, 650 if seperate Thanks for looking and feel free to PM or emal me with any questions. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-65JSggTRBzs/Twuvkb5NBPI/AAAAAAAABGs/4JXaPqFCFZU/s720/DSC00369.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nFtu8AlA_tI/Twuvnh-HC1I/AAAAAAAABG0/hyuMSHMf9YA/s720/DSC00370.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IeUeiMJYQcs/Twuvxior1ZI/AAAAAAAABHM/aRZrQnP259o/s720/DSC00372.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ByUcKMg3lbg/Twuvw_Y9BvI/AAAAAAAABHE/WfubUGWeUgw/s720/DSC00373.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zqk0Gn3PHRU/Twuvx8jAuYI/AAAAAAAABHQ/8FwRBOqQQqQ/s512/DSC00374.JPG[/img]
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[TR] Guye Peak - South Gully Direct 1/7/2012
BootsandPants replied to BootsandPants's topic in Alpine Lakes
I'm guessing you're talking about the last little bit to the false summit? If so, the left just looked easier from what I could see. Heading right looked like a long (50-60ft?) of sustained vertical climbing with little ice. Given that most of the rest of the sticks of the climb made me tread lightly, I didn't want to test my luck. So I went left. I had no idea if it would go or not after what I could see...I just went for it. Glad you guys had a good climb! -
I love my arcteryx harness. It was my first harness and I'll probably buy one again as I like the fit. Light, compact and comfy. Has been pretty durable so far too. I've seen them popping up on steep and cheap for 50%+ off recently and I know they're around in REI clearance bins some places too. Just another option to consider, but definitely hang in some before you buy. Good luck!
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Trip: Guye Peak - South Gully Direct Date: 1/7/2012 Trip Report: The weather looked nice this weekend (not rain) so Ambrose, Aaron P, Alicia and I decided to give the south gully on Guye Peak a go. None of us had ever been up this route before except for Ambrose, so it would be interesting and a fun challenge for the rest of us newer alpine climbers. At the summit west parking lot and moving around 8. We opted not to bring snowshoes or skis as we were guessing that the rain event a few days prior and the warm temps had consolidated the snowpack. Man were we as wrong as six rabbits. We made ok time though as we meandered our was through the Sahalie ski area and up to the entrance of the climb, postholing the entire way like champions. All great alpinists posthole everywhere, right? [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/6664478579_46ec4c461e_b.jpg[/img] Roped and racked up, I headed out first up the gully. I was told I had to lead the whole thing since I was "young and needed experience". The climbing was generally easy, but thin in places. I had to search for a few places to get good tool sticks to pull over some steps a few hundred feet into the gully, but they were there. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ySu-niuHq8w/TwkVvjXTlEI/AAAAAAAAUeA/gIihFPyv7So/w403-h537-k/IMG_0734.JPG[/img] When the route wasn't thin, I was generally wallowing in snow as high as my chest. Easy enough to get purchase for your feet, but still slow going due to the wallowing. [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7015/6664481331_d18ce8766c_b.jpg[/img] After a few more icy and thin steps we reached what looked like a dead end, with one little overhangy bit up to a slope that was hidden around a rightward corner. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8p0ZtKp2RQ0/TwuvKOfbIHI/AAAAAAAABHk/p1mXH4HIJOM/s512/DSC00361.JPG[/img] I brought Ambrose up and we discussed options. He said that he had always bumped out right at this point and wasn't sure if it went. Screw it, throw me on belay, I'm checking it out. It was interesting to pull over this feature, using a bit of stemming, an awesome turf stick and stepping higher than I thought my leg could bend. After rounding the corner and seeing that it did indeed go, I called down that I'm going to keep going up until I couldn't. There was another higher ice step above the last one, probably about 15-20 feet. No great pro around, at least that my gumby eyes could see, so I pounded a picket before the step and changed on. [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6664484759_b309a067d5_b.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7154/6664483959_6005c95cee_b.jpg[/img] After a few more ice steps we made it out of the gully onto a more open face. Nothing technical, just thin in places. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JGcCTB2kLgc/TwuvLSgM30I/AAAAAAAABF0/97RhwOdg1AE/s512/DSC00363.JPG[/img] On the summit at 1245, but the clouds were rolling in and our views were obstructed. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vh1L3gjZlPw/TwuvQFqvk4I/AAAAAAAABGE/vaXx9VizWt8/s640/DSC00364.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kGWLUJmiNQY/TwuvTBIBYxI/AAAAAAAABGM/j46dgxcWMMg/s640/DSC00366.JPG[/img] There was some pretty cool snow formations on the trees up there. Kind of looks like hoar, but I'm not sure if it has a different name if it grows on trees? [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dsl0ly28wZw/TwuvUyIGQhI/AAAAAAAABGU/z9PDHsZlpSE/s640/DSC00365.JPG[/img] After a bit of a rest on the summit we traversed the ridge over to the north summit where we unroped and packed up. The cornice on the top out of the east couloir isn't totally formed, so you can make it out without having to tunnel through it. After stashing the gear, we got to practice our postholing techniques as we headed down the standard snowshoe track back into commonwealth basin. Back at the car and headed for some BBQ in Issaquah by 430. This is a great route that's lots of fun and close to home. Short approach and easy terrain on the descent. Conditions could have been better, with more consolidated snow in the gully, but it's definitely in now and should only get better with time. There's also some sweet steps already kicked in too, so get after it Gear Notes: Picket or two Half rack of nuts (only used DMM sized 3 and 5) 13cm screw a handful of slings for trees Approach Notes: Posthole like it's 1999, or don't be a dumbass and take snowshoes
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Probably us heading for Guye on Saturday. Climbed the S gully direct line. Will write up a TR tonight for a conditions report.
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2011 in 10 Minutes - My Year in Photos
BootsandPants replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in Climber's Board
Mt. Maude's north face. We had climbed it the weekend before the picture was taken and you could just make out our line from the summit of Fernow, which I thought was cool. -
2011 in 10 Minutes - My Year in Photos
BootsandPants replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in Climber's Board
I didn't think the cab sauv was too bad actually, although it could have just been that I was tired and anything would taste good. Haven't tried any of their other ones though. -
2011 in 10 Minutes - My Year in Photos
BootsandPants replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in Climber's Board
Yep, I think it's the pitch 6 belay on Paisano. That was a fun pitch too and I'm glad it was my lead. I liked how the picture (taken by the guys a pitch behind us) captures my belayer's utter boredom as I'm leading. I'll have to try to kick rocks down on him next time to keep him awake -
Outdoors For All is a great local group that helps out and does a lot of good in our community. Lots of outdoor recreation activities they run programs for (ski, snowshoe, rock climb, kayak, biking) with a demographic many aren't aware of or turn a blind eye to.
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2011 in 10 Minutes - My Year in Photos
BootsandPants replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in Climber's Board
While not as impressive as some of the other stuff you guys have done (which is awesome by the way!), it was my first real year of climbing here in the Cascades. Volumes of knowledge were learned, and a ton of fun and great memories were had. 2011 started off with a ton of skiing in the backcountry, and ski instructing at Stevens [img:center]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TaFC-0ZeHEA/TPRylgQCgVI/AAAAAAAABOk/YRHif_dit3A/s640/IMG_3068_edit.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_bgM47_9eMP4/S2kXP20CklI/AAAAAAAAABE/lauYh_mYq2Q/s400/20090109-IMG_0090.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_bgM47_9eMP4/S2kU7Uv4crI/AAAAAAAAAAc/gwp742HdYgU/s400/01162010_Stevens-41.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_bgM47_9eMP4/S3boB8OqZsI/AAAAAAAAAC0/ErMz5ocekWI/s400/-89.jpg[/img] After it was time to climb. A kegger at camp Muir was a good start [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/DSC03145.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/DSC03316.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/IMG_4767_edit.jpg[/img] Got quite lucky to spend three weekends in the Enchantments [img:center]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDDO_QV6vIs/Tfb9GsedBZI/AAAAAAAAA2c/0-J1AfkDLPE/s640/DSC00141.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q-fzsgdxTCU/Tfb8Xgs6foI/AAAAAAAAA1o/6TbBaM7dlZU/s640/DSC00129.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DBJAbXT3lBA/Tfb-NTMeU9I/AAAAAAAAA3g/Yo2GIkzgSgo/s640/DSC00159.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284094_2070520074983_1004293218_32380244_642662_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/281209_2070520314989_1004293218_32380245_3211421_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ANZhYCZkufY/Th704Azmr3I/AAAAAAAAA90/1H-AMFq3UNI/s640/DSC00240.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-61R5EWomPs4/TkCDJNf79mI/AAAAAAAACdQ/uYxUhBxrpek/s640/IMG_0031.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282513_2157388267619_1633862280_2140231_3534602_n.jpg[/img] ...and got some sweet booty gear while we were at it [img:center]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fzz7lrds9ZA/Tfb-wW-N06I/AAAAAAAAA4E/0xQADNWdB70/s640/DSC00168.JPG[/img] Spent some time in the Entiat mountains [img:center]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxgLiv7j7fg/TgncDX8YZrI/AAAAAAAAA6g/7UVEry4BCzU/s640/DSC00181.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KqCv7pcqWrI/Tgnc2UeZIQI/AAAAAAAAA7g/UQZBLtw3CS4/s640/DSC00199.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282507_10150253844024723_749599722_7188459_1142475_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K6EOplLXxkU/TnlY6njTZoI/AAAAAAAABAQ/YoUHPWqlNQA/s640/DSC00217.JPG[/img] and ate friend chicken on the summits [img:center]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N6etaNraAzM/TgjZR9O48MI/AAAAAAAACqs/erJJRtoCYa0/s640/P1130388.JPG[/img] Spent some time learning some ice climbing basics on Baker [img:center]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/262508_10150317551967154_521957153_9291609_2537905_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/281793_10150317546432154_521957153_9291568_6460980_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/222478_10150317547122154_521957153_9291576_6015677_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/223708_10150317545492154_521957153_9291558_3624721_n.jpg[/img] Got to check out Washington Pass and the wine spires for the first time, and climb a few things there too [img:center]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_WqTQ0ZU7JE/TvPu-XGjL-I/AAAAAAAABEc/ycp7TDR0N-g/s640/DSC00292.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X2eWZUJ0jKk/TvPwAvs8ERI/AAAAAAAABE0/DjLO7ypSGg8/s640/DSC00296.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o4GTqU9a4Gs/TmfIuvJzm6I/AAAAAAAACoo/kvL3SELJmlE/s800/IMG_0192.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vj65L2PDtmg/TmfJNKRAC7I/AAAAAAAACpk/W7721GDW6RM/s800/IMG_0209.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FCmJGVngb3k/TmfI75NyakI/AAAAAAAACpE/a6DTVZ_33Ow/s800/IMG_0200.JPG[/img] Was also able to climb at Vantage for the first time [img:center]http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/301300_2365137720240_1004293218_32694443_1453680155_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/309065_2365118559761_1004293218_32694409_137873723_n.jpg[/img] And now that the snow is falling, getting on some steep snow, ice and mixed routes [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EC2pzny8BTk/TvKcuKumIxI/AAAAAAAABCg/jLvgp5QtB5E/s720/DSC00344.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7165/6551940039_493f914efb_b.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3rUJWQteI-E/TvKcwGKkwsI/AAAAAAAABCo/2eRhUXPE9eY/s512/DSC00345.JPG[/img] All in all, it was a great year! While nothing went terribly wrong, I didn't make it out without a few injuries and a few long days [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/215058_2157389547651_1633862280_2140240_4242674_n.jpg[/img] But had a good time with great friends in great places [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nDFoVE8iSbw/TmfJOE2Pb8I/AAAAAAAACpo/JipjlL25xAE/s800/IMG_0213.JPG[/img] Here's to an even better 2012! -
[TR] Lane Peak - The Zipper 12/21/2011
BootsandPants replied to BootsandPants's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Anytime, just let me know! It's a fun and easy climb with a cool feel to it. Any day out of the office is better than sitting there too -
Trip: Lane Peak - The Zipper Date: 12/21/2011 Trip Report: Tuesday afternoon, Aaron P sends me a message at work "Hows your vacation situation? Can you take tomorrow off?" "Sure, what do you have in mind?" "The zipper looks nice" So off we went the next morning down to MRNP. It was a beautiful morning, clear and crisp at 18F when we left the car at the Narada Falls parking lot at 900. Up the snowbank, down the road, over the river and through the woods to Lane Peak we did go. There's a pretty packed in trail right now and snowshoes weren't needed. Some of the lines on Denmen looked pretty good. Photos below for a conditions update on those: [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6551934827_afa9c38c29_b.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/6551935593_4b9b37c7d1_b.jpg[/img] Made it to the base of a little ice step around 950 and roped up here. Neither of us had lead any sort of ice before so we were playing it on the safe side even though it looked very soloable. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L0WIi6EdSoc/TvKcnWoJe_I/AAAAAAAABCM/ghrSKLa-XT0/s512/DSC00340.JPG[/img] Roping up [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2HZqiqHkQD4/TvKcmsXPj1I/AAAAAAAABCI/7ZkMmM1sjOA/s512/DSC00343.JPG[/img] Aaron leading above the first little step [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EC2pzny8BTk/TvKcuKumIxI/AAAAAAAABCg/jLvgp5QtB5E/s720/DSC00344.JPG[/img] Right below the second step After belaying Aaron over the first step, we simuled to the second step, drove in a picket then I went out on lead. Blasted up the second step, and simuled the rest of the way to the top out. [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7165/6551940039_493f914efb_b.jpg[/img] Getting through the second step [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3rUJWQteI-E/TvKcwGKkwsI/AAAAAAAABCo/2eRhUXPE9eY/s512/DSC00345.JPG[/img] Simul to the top Conditions were great. Nice and cold, and the snow has really consolidated to make for great cramponing. We cruised right up this thing. We reached the top of the couloir around 1100 and toyed with the idea of heading back down and climbing up Lovers Lane for shits and giggles, but decided to head up to the summit instead since neither of us had been up there before. Followed some footsteps up a gully on the southeast side until they all stopped at a bright orange rap sling tied around a tree. From there we followed the ridge to the summit. We were surprised at the amount of wallowing we did on the ridge, but made it to the summit without too much difficulty. [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6551946339_7f96b01564_b.jpg[/img] Finding some loose snow [img:center]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6551947379_a5775c6b5c_b.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-guW8ZgfaHsM/TvKc8CLWPVI/AAAAAAAABDI/W2BM8Uga0vc/s720/DSC00349.JPG[/img] Summit Shot The views were fantastic. Crystal clear views of Rainier and everything else around. Couldn't have asked for better weather! [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pCQupzVkQxM/TvKdK6y5HiI/AAAAAAAABDg/LeckS4W2ioM/s720/DSC00354.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z7osRSarDWQ/TvKdD-cXi4I/AAAAAAAABDQ/t7TDVWo-UX8/s720/DSC00350.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-km4AVpatC1k/TvKc7dP5KvI/AAAAAAAABDA/Gox56S-4rgw/s512/DSC00348.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-agdv1DExgzw/TvKc4ud5l1I/AAAAAAAABC4/gXMOUYpuvQE/s720/DSC00347.JPG[/img] After taking a few pictures, we headed down and had a candy bar at the saddle. Back out to the car and happily eating some potato ham soup with an IPA at copper creek by 1430. A great trip and well worth playing hookie for. Thanks for making me take off work Aaron! [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_y2O4tndOZg/TvKdQgwxZ-I/AAAAAAAABDs/S4TRyHQgXsc/s720/DSC00357.JPG[/img] How to kill a snowzombie Gear Notes: Used 3 pickets and a 13cm screw. Could easily solo in these conditions now Approach Notes: Path pretty well stomped in. Follow the footsteps.
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GPSFileDepot has a bunch of free maps for Garmin units. I like the 24k USGS overlay. I'm sure there are a ton of cool things you can do with other software too, but I'm simple. I just wanted topos without giving Garmin more money
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From what I've seen, the newer gen looped Camalots are a mainstay on many racks. Since you already have experience placing them in the past I'd go that route. They also go on sale more so than other cams. New ones can often be snagged at 25% or more off if you look around, which make them a clear choice in the value department. Link Cams are fun to have one or two imo. They've come in handy for me at times, but are definitely a love/hate thing with most people. I generally find myself reaching for my camalots first. I have a few tech friends and they're alright. I feel that they're a little more finicky than camalots or mastercams, but it's not really an issue. You can probably find them for a great price now that the helium friends are out. A friend's DMM Dragons I got to try were pretty slick, but they're too spendy for my tastes. That's good beer money wasted! My 0.02
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The Sum'Tec, Petzl's version of the Venom, is also a great axe. Keep an eye out for them on sale too.
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Getting rid of some of the packs I don't use as much anymore. Osprey Stratos 18L Seen some use but not a whole lot. Padding still good. Great for a day out in the mountains or around town. $30 http://i.imgur.com/BcPPI.jpg[/img] EMS 3000 Black EMS pack, 50L. Still plenty of life left in the suspension. Will upload pictures as soon as I can get them. $80 Cilogear 40B Dyneema Dyneema version of the 40B worksack, don't think these are made anymore (at least I can't find them on their site). Size M. Picked this guy up from Feathered Friends two seasons back and it's taken me on some pretty cool adventures in the meantime. Tons of life left in all of the foam. All straps that came with this guy are included. [img:center]http://i.imgur.com/DXYQI.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://i.imgur.com/A5GOk.jpg[/img] There is a small hole in one of the side panels. Not sure how it got there, but I put some seam grip over it and let it cure as a repair. The repair has held up great with no signs of wear. I can put a fresh dot of seam grip on there before sale if you'd like. [img:center]http://i.imgur.com/w7mA8.jpg[/img] $250 OBO Would prefer a local deal (I'm in Seattle and commute to Everett everyday for work) but will gladly take paypal and ship if you're not local and would chip in for the cost. Feel free to PM or email me with any questions. Thanks for looking! *EDIT: Can't seem to get the pictures to scale to a reasonable size...sorry they eat the thread