BootsandPants

Got back from a weekend cragging in 11worth to find a set of ergos on my doorstep. The only difference was in the griprest to pommel interface as already shown on Edvin's blog. Looking forward to getting out on them next weekend! One comment though; wtf is with the torque on the head bolts? Nearly broke my damn hand taking out the bolts while trying to swap the pick out. The allen head on the bolt even deformed about 10 degrees before the thing budged. Seems a bit excessive on the torque to me...

I just sent them the whole tool, pick and all.

They already had them. Shipped them in a month ago and told them just to send me the new ones when they're in and not to bother with the . No sense in wasting their money to ship the fixed tools back to me just to have them be shipped back and replaced a month later.

Just got an email from Petzl saying that they just got the tools in today and that my replacement Ergos will be on their way this afternoon. Great service and communication from Petzl through this whole thing. A+ guys!

Mammut Twilights are 7.5mm twins, and Tendon Master 7.8mm half/twin come in at 38g/m, which is probably the lightest you'll find. Edelrid also has a half/twin, but I think it's a little heavier

Trip: Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge Date: 9/4/2011 Trip Report: A nice three day labor day weekend had us heading back to the North Cascades to finish out the Boealps ICC class for me. Being the "graduation climb" I got to pick the route and other team members. I had heard about Paisano from a friend who wanted to do it the previous year as his grad climb, but unforeseen sickness turned them around at the base of the climb. Upon getting the beta on the climb, I thought it looked like an awesome, sustained climb on great rock that doesn't get done a whole lot. Plus we could link it up with Burgundy Spire. Convincing enough for me...we're doin' it. After grabbing some breakfast from Tootsie, a generous helping of bacon and eggs in our stomachs, we headed up to the bivy site. The climbers trail is steep, dusty, hot, but uneventful. All that food didn't help much in terms of moving fast but soon enough we made it to the bivy site around 1430, about 2 hours after leaving the cars. After setting up camp and filtering some water from the spring, we took off to do a recon mission to find the start of the route, and to drop off our gear so we wouldn't have to haul it up in the morning. There aren't many descriptions of getting to the base of the route, but we found our way there in about an hour from camp. We had found some carins leading off to the right off of the main trail that goes to the col. These were above a large rock slab about 20-25 minutes out of the bivy area. We built another carin just off the col trail to mark the diversion a little better for future parties. Following a faint path (marked by carins) traverse climbers right for a bit until you reach a gully. Descend a slab while green belaying yourself down on trees. Cross the gully and look for the easiest way to get up on the other side of it. Once on the other side, stay on this little ridge between the two gullies. There's a faint path here, stay on the solid ground. Resist the urge to go up the nice looking small grassy gully now on your right. As you ascend, look for the distinctive notch and chockstone that are mentioned in other TRs. Scramble up some kitty litter filled benches and you're at the start of the route. I have a GPS track from the bivy to the start I'll post once I get it off of my device. Hopefully it will help someone in the future! I'd highly recommend not approaching this from up high or from the col. One piece of beta I had said to do this; but it looked too sketchy for me, and I don't see what time it will save. The start of the route is at the tree off to the right of this picture. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RX4enjcp6TM/TmfI124XE7I/AAAAAAAACo0/6g4v71Fj1i8/s800/IMG_0195.JPG[/img] The view from the start was great in the waning daylight [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o4GTqU9a4Gs/TmfIuvJzm6I/AAAAAAAACoo/kvL3SELJmlE/s800/IMG_0192.JPG[/img] After cacheing our gear, staring at and talking about the route for a while we got hungry and headed down. Fed and watered, we were in bed around 2100. 500 the next morning seemed to come too early. Out of bed and moving up to the start by 530. Our goal was to be at the base of the route by sunrise (630) and to begin climbing quickly after that to maximize our daylight. Predawn stoke [img:center]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/301162_2231818368325_1633862280_2238647_177420832_n.jpg[/img] We made our time, thanks to caching the gear and our recon mission the day before and were climbing by sunup. I won't go into a pitch by pitch description of the climb; there are plenty of those out there, but the climbing was very good and, with the exception of the second pitch, quite sustained in difficulty. A few highlights; - The first pitch was an eye opener! Not what I was expecting at all and quite sustained. Guess I was still sort of sleeping when I started. Was definitely awake by the end of it. BK Starting P3 [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-985Wc5hRtwk/TmfJF9lI3vI/AAAAAAAACpY/pws_ZuBBn-g/s576/IMG_0205.JPG[/img] - I got the crux pitch (our 4th, marked as 5th on a lot of other TRs), which I found awkward and very balance-y in parts. Towards the end of this pitch, leave the ridge and look for a tree and little ledge off on the left face. Set up your belay here. Staying on the ridge is unprotectable slab and there is a nice little feature system that will get you back onto the ridge line from this tree. If you look closely, you can see 4 climbers in this section I'm talking about above. There's the obvious one (black jacket/tan pants) finishing up the crux, two on the ledge by the tree belaying (green jacket and tan jacket) and one leading the pitch back to the ridge (black shirt/white helmet) [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UsWMWSu1BY0/TmVj_L5pXbI/AAAAAAAAPXo/WyVnfzUEg9Y/s512/P9040689-2.JPG[/img] - The pitch after the crux pitch (P5 for us, P6 in other beta), you'll eventually come to a big blocky ledge where some beta states that you can set a belay. Climb up over the next step to the next ledge. It's also big and blocky and sets you up to knock a pitch off of the climb Pic of the above described belay spot [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vj65L2PDtmg/TmfJNKRAC7I/AAAAAAAACpk/W7721GDW6RM/s800/IMG_0209.JPG[/img] - If you stretched the previous pitch a bit you can combine part of P7 and 8 into one. Climb on P7 until an obvious big blocky ledge and set your belay here (this is partway into P8 in other beta). There's a nice bulgy crack on this pitch that's not rated on the topo. I'd give it an 8, just for reference. - With your new and improved belay spot, you can make the summit in one pitch from there. Booya, shaved off a pitch with no sketch factor or heinous rope drag! Belay ledges are generally really well defined and comfortable. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r2I6hh35XZo/TmfJAyJjInI/AAAAAAAACpQ/Gi8UHfUooh8/s800/IMG_0204.JPG[/img] BK were both on the summit in about 5 hours after starting. Nailed it. Both Matt and Aaron were standing with us 20 minutes later. Chugged some water, scarfed some sandwiches, and took in the views [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/302722_2231820008366_1633862280_2238659_130539835_n.jpg[/img] Matt and Aaron [img:center]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/303037_2231820448377_1633862280_2238662_1192414783_n.jpg[/img] We discussed our plan of continuing on to Burgundy from here, and while both teams weren't on the summit by our 1230 cutoff time, we were damn close. However, not all of the team was feeling up to it, so rather than split up, we decided to stick together and head down. Summit Shot [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nDFoVE8iSbw/TmfJOE2Pb8I/AAAAAAAACpo/JipjlL25xAE/s800/IMG_0213.JPG[/img] A scramble down to the rap station, and two raps later and we were on the ground, chossading back down from the col to our bivy. We decided to stay that night rather than hike out, because why not? We didn't have to work in the morning. Shenanigans ensued What else are you supposed to drink while climbing the wine spires? [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FCmJGVngb3k/TmfI75NyakI/AAAAAAAACpE/a6DTVZ_33Ow/s800/IMG_0200.JPG[/img] Whiskey bouldering in the meadow [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gF4nRiWLHqQ/TmVkbPdIlhI/AAAAAAAAPZ4/rPPU-6W9NEQ/s512/P9040755.JPG[/img] Whiskey Bouldering! All in all, it was a great weekend with some awesome friends on some fantastic rock. Thanks guys for a great ICC experience. Gear Notes: We took gear to 4", but if just climbing Paisano, gear to 3" is enough Approach Notes: Steep and dusty

I've been using the Vireo since the beginning of the year, so my experience is pretty limited, but so far I really like it. Very light and has the ability to be used in the summer as well as the winter with the right coat. I'll use a FF Volant when it's colder and my lighter pile jacket when warmer, or just the bag if really warm. As for height; I'm 5'8" and I can get the regular length bag cinched around my shoulders with a little wiggling. I'd go for a long if I were you. Another option would be to pop by their store and try them out. It's a very versatile piece of kit that, so far, I've found works great in our range here.

Wow, thanks for the write up and pictures. I was heading out on the trail after completing a route on NEWS when the heli came shooting over the ridge and started circling, then ran into the SAR ground unit. Left me wondering what was going on. Glad everyone made it out OK for the most part.

Nice job guys. I like the 2PM start time...I need to do more climbs like that

Nice write up Matt; I need to get my pictures up. Yeah, the lose rock was somewhat terrifying. If anyone is going up the 5.7 variation, there is a huge flake buried in the crack about 10 ft. above the big leftward pointing horn/possible belay ledge. This sucker is cantilevered in the crack and the only thing holding it up is its own weight. Breathing on this will cause it to go and take out your belayer and anchor down below. Hopefully it falls out on its own when nobody is up there. Until then, stay safe if you go up that way.

I love my Hille and have had it for about two years now. Super lightweight and it's double wall, which is a huge selling point in my opinion for any alpinism in the Cascades. I've spent similar weather situations in both a single wall Bibler and my Hille and I'd take the Hille hands down; kept me drier. I haven't had experience with the exact models you're looking at, but that was the case with the ones I've tried. Also, Hilleberg's North American office is in Redmond. So if you live in the Puget Sound area and need help or parts, call them up and pop on by. They're very helpful and great people.

This! Also, I usually tell people to get a smaller size as it will force you to take less. You'd be surprised what you take that you really don't need and how much stuff can be left behind! Just my 2c

Guess I didn't follow the "trail". It was dark and the snow was easier to descend quickly than rocky bits. So I guess you don't need the axe then

The lower half is still snow covered. Upper half is rock as of last night. We didn't use pons, but the axe was a must.

So it's basically a G14 with easier FP removal? Not seeing the big differences, although it could be weight. Nice front bail design though

That's been my experience. I've done it in 2.5 hours on the fast end with nothing but a liter of water, a puffy, and a hamburger in my pack, or 9.5 hours dragging a full keg. That was a long day on the snowfield...

Sweet write up and pics Rick! I'd like to get this one done once class is over and the conditions are better. Here's hoping! We've got some cool pictures of you guys climbing from our vantage point an the Roosevelt/Coleman too.

So I'm an idiot and in my haste to pack up, I forgot my tent poles and pegs at the bivy site at Smith. The poles are gold/yellow and in a green bag and the pegs are also gold in a black bag. My site was situated right along the ridge overlooking the river. If anyone happens to find them, shoot me a PM. Thanks!

Thanks, made a new thread in the appropriate forum. Can't delete this one, so mods please delete.

So I'm an idiot and in my haste to pack up, I forgot my tent poles and pegs at the bivy site at Smith. The poles are gold/yellow and in a green bag and the pegs are also gold in a black bag. My site was situated right along the ridge overlooking the river. If anyone happens to find them, shoot me a PM. Thanks! (Not sure if this is the right forum for this, but it seemed OK to me. Mods; please move if not appropriate.)

Nice job guys...still lots of snow out there it looks like

I use a 37m 7.7mm rope only for glacier travel and moderate angle snow routes. Perfect for 3, and can do 4 in a pinch although I'd rather not. Has worked pretty well so far and weighs nothing. Been quite happy with that purchase

Trip: Prusik Peak - South Face Beckey-Davis Date: 7/10/2011 Trip Report: Core Enchantment permits had us heading back into the zone for a second time in a month, and climbing Prusik again. This time we'd try our hands at the South Face on the Beckey-Davis rather than the West Ridge. Arrived at the Leavenworth Ranger Station at 830 to pick up our permits. Mulled around town a bit waiting for Der Sportsman to open up, as someone who shall remain nameless (me) herp derped and forgot their helmet and had to purchase a new one. Were at the Snow Lake TH by 915 and were on the move by 945. We easily cruised up the trail and were passing Nada lake around 1200. [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284514_2070518474943_1004293218_32380239_6698194_n.jpg[/img] A short time later we crossed the dam at Snow Lake, the water definitely lower than the last time. Using the logs to try to cross was like some sort of crazy game; as you stepped on one it began to sink and you had to move quickly or else get very wet. Some were successful in making it across the log jam dry, others not so much. Guess all that video game playing as a kid came in handy [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lfsCjeSFwlM/Th70hqRFC8I/AAAAAAAAA9k/fccdyMpXLOs/s512/DSC00237.JPG[/img] After a brief time sunning and drying out a nice flat rock, we continued around Snow Lake and headed up to make camp above Lake Vivian on a little hill next to Temple Lake. What a difference a month makes! Just a month ago we were in snow before Nada lake, post holing and swearing with burning the anger of a thousand suns at how terrible the approach was. This was way easier and more pleasant! At camp by 1700 cooking some dinner and watching the goats play all around our campsite. [img:center]http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284094_2070520074983_1004293218_32380244_642662_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/281209_2070520314989_1004293218_32380245_3211421_n.jpg[/img] Bed by 2000, awake on Sunday at 500, at the base of the route by 630 and climbing by 700. It took us a little longer to get going than we wanted to, but such is the way these things go. BK and Monica started up the wicked chimney on the first pitch of the Beckey route while Ambrose and I looked on. After about ten minutes of watching BK thrutch, grunt and curse his way up it, we decided that the start to the Stanly-Bergner route looked a little more aesthetic (and fun). "We could link up with them after the first pitch, right?" "Yeah, screw that thing, lets climb the crack" [img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284464_2070520915004_1004293218_32380248_5085141_n.jpg[/img] After a much nicer first pitch, and a obliquely traversing second pitch, we met up with BK and Monica; back on route. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ANZhYCZkufY/Th704Azmr3I/AAAAAAAAA90/1H-AMFq3UNI/s512/DSC00240.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C0ZgscW5ESI/Th71CEK184I/AAAAAAAAA-U/XYtBLMlXJTI/s512/DSC00241.JPG[/img] A few route finding decisions and pitches later and we were at the crux, a weird bulge without very good hands. A nice little balancy problem, and the hardest thing I've led out in the alpine to date. I was pretty stoked to send it. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6RYQYmX3E4s/Th71Eltj5mI/AAAAAAAAA-A/qaRG6eqLl1E/s640/DSC00243.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281804_2070521675023_1004293218_32380249_5608009_n.jpg[/img] A pitch after the crux and we were standing in the notch on the east ridge. BK and Monica had scrambled to the summit before us, and Ambrose asked them to lower a rope so that we could climb the 5.10 finger crack up instead of scrambling. Tick another first off of my list... [img:center]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282589_2070522595046_1004293218_32380252_4847612_n.jpg[/img] Finally, all of us on the summit after 8 pitches, relaxing and taking in the views. Our stay was short lived as it was already 1500 and we had a long hike ahead of us still. [img:center]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/271049_2070544235587_1004293218_32380300_2448790_n.jpg[/img] Three double rope raps took us down to the snow. From there we hiked back to camp by 1730, broke down and were on the trail again. I always forget that hike is so damned long and always underestimate how long it will take to get out. Hiked the last three miles in total darkness and were at the TH by 2300. Feet hurting and super thirsty, we were dismayed to find that absolutely nothing was open in Leavenworth (not even the gas station) and all of the vending machines wouldn't even take our money Awesome weekend with some great climbers on a really fun route! I definitely learned a lot, and will never forget my helmet again (Photo credit to Ambrose, BK and myself) Gear Notes: Gear to 4", doubles of cams .5"-2", full rack of nuts Approach Notes: Consistent snow halfway around snow lake, but well consolidated. Lots of bare spots for bivy sites opening up on the plateau now.

It will be interesting to see how it holds up in practical use. I wonder how easy it is to clean the magnets. I'm sure that ferrous materials in dirt getting stuck in there will eventually reduce their ability to function properly.

There wasn't any dry ground above 5200ft in Leroy Creek basin There is a flat spot up closer to the col that would work OK, or maybe a small bivy site on the rocks of the col itself Both weekends we had water relatively close to our bivy sites, however our camps were not close to the col. One was at 6800 at a flat spot in direct line with the col, the other was around 6600 on the north side of the basin closer to the gap you cross over to approach Fernow. Not sure if Devin's group had water by their camp though. Tons of water on the approach, and there was a decent amount of melt at places on the traverse to Fernow.