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kukuzka1

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Everything posted by kukuzka1

  1. your justifying a climbers responsibilty with a whole seperate issue
  2. I love the real narrow middle part. pretty exsposed. great pics
  3. play st andrews
  4. yes you start higher but you dont miss much. more of the same snow slogging. the only interesting part is the top couple hundred feet of 60 degree slope. I think the leroy approach is good with a strait foward descent
  5. when i did it in 04 the decent down to leroy basin was casual but some hard steep snow[55]in places and the hike in is nice and not to long. car to basin 2-3 hr, basin to summit 3+, hrs down/out 4 hrs. the decent down the col to get to the n. face is in some steep, dont fall terrain. [it was mid june with a hard freeze overnight so conditions were optimal]
  6. another note/story on soloing. In 1993 after i had soloed the east face of chair peak i met beckey and a companion comming up the talus. after a breif chat on how beatiful it was today he asked what i did. after i told him he said "i wouldnt do that" and i began thinking that you never hear of beckey soloing. dont get me wrong im sure hes done tons of down climbing and terrain where you dont fall but also in that era soloing wasnt that popular with klunky boots,[although paul preuss was soloing up to 5.8 in europe in the 1920s] maybe thats one reason beckey lived through all the climbs hes done?
  7. mountain sloth can i use your last pic it really shows a good angle for drawning the difference between i-b and the 99 route.thanks
  8. I went alone up the sw chute and saw no one on a busy weekend
  9. everything in climbing tells you to not let go and then your standing on dolminite tower and jump. rad
  10. and it would seem even longer when your daughters waiting for help
  11. you could do adams slowly[3-4 days] theirs some easy to med routes, plus you wouldnt get a headbanger
  12. well the father may say things because of his devistation and the guilt he will feel for the rest of his life. hope he does alright
  13. its like skiing. its funner and better with a partner, but sometimes you just have to go do it. like jeff lowe said, it almost feels to good. so i dont do it to much
  14. is that the andy deklerk route? hes hardcore strong
  15. last pic is awsome, looks like a hoot.
  16. most glacier traveling is in a variety of different terrain/conditions so like i said above if your in an area where you dont think you could hold a fall or self arrest[icy/steep] then its very practical to do a running belay until your on terrain that mellows out. and like i said above ive not done it many times even though i tell myself i will.but i dont know exactly what happend to lee so this is just a general senario.
  17. also, it would have to be in winter, imo
  18. kit lewis is who we should ask
  19. what? no way 98% maybe
  20. true enough and no disrepect to the victim he sounds like he knew his stuff. its just something that could happen to anyone of us
  21. Im just saying where a slip/fall would result in a uncontrolled fall then a running belay over that area would be practical. [though ive not done it many times]
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