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Everything posted by kukuzka1
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Trip: nw face w satilite peak mt snoqualmi - central park gully gd II+-III A-I3+R+ M4/5R+? Date: 2/23/2010 Trip Report: in feb 1993 myself and steve wick climbed up to below the large cave on the upper 1/3 of the couloir. the 1st pitch climbs a 75+ ice/snice smear to a chockstone belay on the left or a tree belay up and right. then follow the corner[60-70degree] until the cave. above the cave is a straitforward 50 degree snow couloir. in 93 we bailed. on tuesday 2-23-10 i downclimbed and rapped to the base of the cave intent on rope soloing the crux pitch to finish it.it starts on the right side of the cave on near vertical rock[pro difficult]for 30 feet then mellows to 65 degrees with nice sticks.well i couldnt lead it so i top-ropped it and then rappled the rest of the couloir fixing some anchors on the way. the crux pitch still needs a proper lead, maybe when feeling stronger? it will be a bold lead. the climbing over-all is really good but protection is difficult to find, although the anchors are solid but you do have to search for them. I doubt it will become popular?. if anyones done it already let me know? m.preiss Gear Notes: 1 60 meter rope two would be nice if rappeling but i did it w/one. 8-10 pins thin-1 inch full set nuts and tricams and a few cams.1-2 ice scews shorties? Approach Notes: same as new york gully, its the left most gully on the satilite peak with an obvious large cave. 4-5 pitches + 300 ft upper couloir
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i would seriously over heat with no ventalation unless its winter
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and if you read the attached letters there is a wide variety of opinions about said numbers
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mark b and me were at vantage in 96? and when we were driving out of the entrance there were 2 or 3 naked ladies and a photographer on top of the first rocks on the left. for some mag?
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unemployment may be a little higher but ive never been without work for 30 years and i think everyone i assiociate with has a job, if they want one?
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10% unemployment. weve always had 5-7% so 90% are working 5-7% cant find a job no matter what the economy is doing, that leaves 3-5% out of work. i think sometimes we and the media blow things up to much
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i like the full side zips to really cool my legs when on the go but only if its not going to be too hot/low elevation. then a thin wind pant if gets real windy
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pinto beans + h20 + simmer = goodness
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when climbed bears breast pulled out by hand a simalar looking piton that scott p pictured earlier could be beckeys since in aug 1939 was one of his first first ascents ever. also summit register indicates that dose not get done much at all?
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when i run into the enevitable remarks about a climbing accident/fatality i usually keep my mouth shut but sometimes i will remark that untill you know more facts about it you cant really be sure of anything your saying is close to the truth. and i also remind citizens that it was somebodies brother, sister, son, husband, ect... so to them it dosnt really matter how it happend but that its the end for there loved one. and that is a tragedy
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when i ski with my 9 year old i do see half the boarders on there ass. im sure its pretty fun in powder but it looks like it sucks in hard packed ?
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1963 route ne rib/face j-berg great route. a few great 5.5-7 pitches up high
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thats a nice wall but i was thinking of something thats free and available to everyone. teenagers dont have much money. all i requested is they dont put lead bolts on it so the kids dont think their already on the mountains when they go[sorry, couldnt help it] and as far as there being no money, yes but they can find the money from somewhere and hopefully the economy picks up
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if anyones interested, ive emailed issaquah city hall and the local newspaper about building a climbing wall at the new sqauk park on issy-hobart road, just south of issaquah. its a great place for one, looking staight across at tiger mt. marymoore park and north bend both have one and its great, free training. we cant have enough of theese. email or write the council. the mayor and all others seemed real eager to help. the more they hear from the public the better chance of getting it built.[even if you dont live in issaquah]thanks
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Believe it or not, climbers can both clean up their own mess AND care about the bigger picture. well said!
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i havent read the whole post so heres my opinion. at crags id say to make it fun and rap bolt it,unless that goes against the local traditions.
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ive wondered why you keep comming back and back and back.......
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in the BIG picture everything on this website is pretty insignificant
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probibly the same guy as today
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this is a climbing web sight. what do you want to discuss, the origins of life? srewing kittens up the butt[this has been suggested before]sure its the 'conquest of the usless'i just wanted matt and other "leaders" of the climbing community state there opinions on it.
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and would you like or dislike seeing theese kind of established routes in the mountains? i dont have a problem with bolts but like ive said on here before i think rap bolted routes as such should be established at crags. [same question is garfield a crag or mountain?] i cant believe[some] climbers wouldnt be a little outraged if this type of route went up on stuart or bonanza. but knowing of all the negative feedback from some of the climbers i doubt we have to worry about it? and as far as bolting part of the line i did in 99, it sucks, but like ive said they didnt know about it because it wasnt yet published. i dont care if they leave it or not. i just hope this is the end of theese kind of routes in the mountains. mike preiss bellevue