summitchaserCJB

True

Fine you non-rule readers. It is in the Olympics.

Glad someone got out while I was losing my soul at work.

A lot of mine have been in TR's. So don't check my TR's.

Fair enough. Let me see...

PS- I have no idea what peak that is.

Because it is easy to grab some obscure photo off the internet. Climbing an obscure peak? Now thats the hard part.

Nice one Josh.

Here's a rule. It has to be your photo.

The lineup for people ready to free p1 of City Park was at least 8 people long this weekend. Damn aiders. You mean the 5.10 bolt ladder? What were they doing, linking that with Godzilla?

Right on.

Hey I know Garrett. Those aren't yours are they Oly?

Slight change in wording, big change in meaning. In my experience, there are some things I never use that I always bring. And I guess I should add that there are some things that you bring, use, but don't bring again. But nothing in particular comes to mind.

Word.

Yes- This matches my "action suit."

I watched guys paraglide near there once.

Good point tele. I care less about bolt anchors than I do bolts on route. But your right none-the-less. That is a highly traveled intersection of two routes that see a lot of traffic.

Angel is a multi-pitch route. Most people rap after the first pitch- which is what you were referring to.

I frown on "upgrading" classics. Especially trad classics.

Looks like E. Wilmans Spire. The rock is not too bad on the spire but the approach gully is pretty loose. Recomend early season so there's snow in the gully. Thanks

i've done that - 5.9ish - skerry belay at top as there's essentially no gear to belay from - made my partners improptu decision to prusik the pitch shortly after falling repeatedly at the starting crux exciting! Oh wow. Sounds like an epic waiting to happen. I remember that no-gear belay. I think I cleaned a crack and smashed a couple small aliens in somehow.

And I'm sure they have a standardized way to determine width (at least you'd think they would). You know, at a given temperature under standard conditions. Ya, it'll change in the field, but they have to tell you something. If there were just 9, 10, 11mm ropes that would significantly limit the number of available ropes. I don't think they should stop manufacturing 9.1 ropes just because it might not always, 100% of the time be 9.1mm exactly. I think asking that might be a little anal retentive.

Sounds like your trying to over-intellectualize this to me. I guess you could compare similar diameters on gms/m. That really is a more realistic comparison, given that people want different diameter ropes for different applications. If you want the lightest rope, google around or ask someone and they'll let you know and you can buy it. For alpine routes I like my 9.1 Joker. As far as the theoretical conversation goes, I think the current standard is fine.

hmm. I was up there a couple months ago doing Damnation Crack and didn't notice anything. Just the Angel anchors about 10 feet from Jello. Might it need chopping? That step-across is totally protectable.