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Everything posted by summitchaserCJB
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Ya I think that is correct. I've always heard (but not always practiced because it is overkill but I'm fine with that) that opposite and opposing is ideal.
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North ridge of Baker possibly.
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It is open, roads are clear and the views are great. Probably little snow on the trail as well. Hit it up!
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"Getting off a climb just once using a BIC lighter to look for anchors will make a guy a little paranoid "
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New Leavenworth guidebook is here!
summitchaserCJB replied to lancegranite's topic in Climber's Board
And a nice number of new routes and crags! -
New Leavenworth guidebook is here!
summitchaserCJB replied to lancegranite's topic in Climber's Board
Haven't seen it myself but sounds and looks good. -
[TR] mt baker - coleman-deming 3/20/2010
summitchaserCJB replied to spionin's topic in North Cascades
hmm.. -
[TR] mt baker - coleman-deming 3/20/2010
summitchaserCJB replied to spionin's topic in North Cascades
I agree about your living room being a controlled environment, but does it have external validity? -
[TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 3/24/2010
summitchaserCJB replied to Captain panther's topic in Alpine Lakes
So bigeo you had IBS? -
What a pissing contest.
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after climbing eats... what's your favorite?
summitchaserCJB replied to mountainsloth's topic in Climber's Board
I am a personal fan of frozen pizza and beer. I am so close to L worth and Index! -
Gene- I tend to agree. "If you the ice is good, quickly place screws at regular intervals." I agree- this goes for trad too (even though this is an ice discussion). If the ice is good, an ice screw will definitely be more likely to hold a fall. Better to place a screw when the going is good than get into a sketchy situation and regret it.
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Me too. Specifically the songs in my head.
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Trip: Mt. Ellinor - Regular Route Date: 3/21/2010 Trip Report: My bro, his wife Michelle, myself and our friend Erin were all out in the Olympics for the weekend and decided to head up Mt. Ellinor for the day. We started kinda early and drove up the the lower trailhead. The road is still pretty snowy and an AWD is required to get up there. We made the hike up to the camping area at the base of the coulior (about 2.5 miles to here). Here Michelle and Erin decided to head back down the trail because they had the dogs and they didn't have ice axes. Mur and I sprinted up to the summit- up the coulior and up there in an hour. The wind on the summit was steady. We took some pictures and headed down via glissade. It was a fast descent and took us about an hour to get all the way down. Gear Notes: pants for glissade, ice ax, no crampons needed this time.
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Only. Hehe. Good work.
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Just to add some more stoke. The pitch after the 5.10a/b pitch of HOTC (the one everyone does) is a nice 5.10 overhanging crack that not as many people do. It is definitely worth it. It is possible to do, from the ground up, all of GM and the last half of HOTC, in one huge monster pitch with a 60 m rope.
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Trip: Index Town Wall - Pisces, Breakfast of Champions, Heart of the Count Date: 3/18/2010 Trip Report: Todd and I had a great day of hard climbing with no falls, weights, or other crap. He sent Pisces, the last pitch of Heart of the Country (5.10) and the GNS. I sent the middle pitch of Heart of the Country (10b) , Pisces, and Breakfast of Champions clean. Overall 5 pitches at or above 5.10a. I'll leave it at that. Thanks for reading. What a day for sending. Todd's got a lot more juicy video/photos. Gear Notes: lots of it
