BigSky

+1 It's all about the moisture gradient (and temp gradient to some extent). PU coated PTFE membranes in particular need a dry outer because the "breathability" is on a chemical level (think capillary action) only.

I'm quite sure Bdry is a pu coated PTFE a la gore, etc. The PU thickness of proprietary membranes is generally what determines "breathability".

I wear a large in both BD and Rab gloves for what it's worth--though no experience with the Rab Modular in particular. I roll with eVent whenever possible.

I've spent several nights in the Nallo 2 GT, and have been inside the other Nallo's, and the Jannu. I currently own an Allak. Nallo pros: -lighter than the Jannu -the GT fly gives you a huge vestibule if you want it -the ventilation system is a little more versatile...with screened foot vent and the door/fly vent you can really adjust the ventilation level to suit your needs summer-winter Nallo cons: -not quite as roomy; length is the biggest thing for me. At 6'2", the Nallo's are just a little bit short for me (87" I think) and the foot of my bag touches the end wall. -not free standing, which may or may not limit you based on what you want to do with it. I personally like a free standing tent (actually I'd like a Nallo 2 to go along with my Allak, but $$$$$). Jannu pros: -stable, freestanding, and bulletproof; very wedge shaped and would buck the jet stream -a little more room and I believe it's about 4 in. longer Jannu cons: -noticeably heavier, whether this matters to you is personal of course -the ventilation system is great, but not as versatile...it is a "warmer" tent -because it is more wedge shaped, the vestibule space isn't quite as useable (think wall angle)--it's a trade off. Both are easy to set up and are awesome tents. If you have any more specific questions I may be able to answer them.

I have the Matrix Light (and Tech for that matter) and consider them technical mountaineering axes. They can and do climb vertical just fine, but as Dane alluded to, a factory rest is far preferable to the sliders/horns for long days of swinging. For "mountaineery" gully routes with short vertical steps or similar I consider the Matrix Light style tools to be ideal. If that's your game I'd say you're on the right track.

+1 on the M11+ fit and finish--fairly stiff, narrow-ish, very cool all around ice boot in my opinion. Giving the Hyper Traction a go this winter.

You can get the Rab Latok's at Prolite Gear for $55 shipped. They have always been great to deal with and it looks like they are cheaper than elsewhere. Gloves go fast as ice season hits, so I'd move sooner than later.

I climbed in them a bit last season and they held up pretty well, but they're no leather. In reference to the OP I like the Rab M14 and Rab Phantom Grip for leads in all but the coldest temps. I'll sacrifice a good deal for increased dexterity. The Phantom Grip's are just hard-face WindPro but they dry fast enough that I rotate two pairs for leads and stay comfortable.

I climbed on them all last season, just wondered what other people thought of them. I found them to be FAST but semi-annoying to rack and place in featured ice. Overall I still dig them and ended up pairing radion's with a a few Grivel 360's for pockets and tricky spots. Yeah that Camp sale was a good one.

Just curious if anyone has tried the Camp Radion's and general thoughts on performance, etc. Thanks.

Best value in that price range on the market for a framed production pack.

Two should be plenty. In the event of shortage, flip the canister upside down and squeak out a few more btu's.

I've used the OR Fraction and Thermawrap both. Don't think the Thermawrap hood went over my helmet, but I don't have it anymore to check. The Fraction has been good to me though, and it seems like they are always on sale. I now use an Integral Designs PLQ for summer+ belay duty. I put snaps on my Dolomitti hood and PLQ collar, so it now has a removable hood at about 16.5 oz. all up. It's a little bit loftier than the others, which I wanted.

Don't know where you are in MT, but if near Bozeman a trip to Mystery Ranch might be in order. You pay a small price in weight, but they have incredible suspension and durability.

Awesome, way to get it done. Matrix/Cave&Gully is one of the cooler looking slots on that side of the canyon in my opinion.

I'd buy it.

I don't particularly love the Mutant, but I do think it's the closest thing to a true climbing pack that Osprey has built in recent history.

I thought about the Allak when I bought my last double wall. I'd like to give both it and the Jannu a run some time.

I was looking at the Superlite not the Mtn, but I thought the mountain had one on the side...apparently not.

I'd reiterate that while the floor dimensions of the ID and Rab are @ the same, there is much more floor space in the ID due to the angle (and I swear ID sandbags their numbers on a lot of stuff). I assume the mtn. would be more comparable to the MKI. Sounds like the Rabs might be a good fit for you, so I'm not trying to convince you otherwise, I just wanted to clear that up since the floor specs are about the same. If you can get a deal on the Mtn that's always a bonus. Then if you don't like it and have to sell it you don't lose much. I'll look forward to your thoughts/review whatever route you go.

I just went and set up the Rab Summit Superlite and Integral Designs MKI XL today to compare them. First of all, both are very solid; you can comfortably lean all of your weight on the frames without much flex. Construction and attention to detail is good on the Rab and great on the ID (no surprise there). In the Superlite my "long" bag touches, but my top bag (hoodless) does not. Part of the reason the bag touches is that the walls are at such a low angle, but it'd still touch a bit I'm sure. I can comfortably sit hunched, but not sitting all the way up in the middle (I am 6'2"). I weighed it (poles, body, stakes, guylines) and it came in at 3lbs 4.5 oz. It has one vent/portal at the foot end. The MKI XL is significantly wider, particularly when guyed out, and much taller. I can easily sit all the way up with room to spare. My bag just barely touches on one end, and not at all diagonally. It has two vents at the top, which are nice, and has a small peaked hood over the door so you can open it a bit at the top without letting moisture in. This would likely offset the lower breathability compared to eVent, but then you're losing heat; definitely a trade off. Neither is a comfortable backpacking tent, which is fine with me, but just to make sure there's no confusion. Both are bomber assault tents, and I'd use either without hesitation. For the lightest trips with carry overs, etc. I'd go Rab. For more than a night or two with two people I'd go MKI XL of the two. Since you are using it as your primary winter shelter, I'd steer away from the Rab (same floor dimensions as the superlite) unless weight is of utmost importance to you, or you have small climbing partners. If you're going in the 4+ lb range anyway, I think you'd be much more comfortable in a Tenshi-like set up.

You can still get a Rab Summit Superlite in Exchange-Lite eVent (if you don't mind a 27 in. height; I think it's like 87 in. long). They make the Summit Mountain now too, which has a taller peak height; don't know how they got away with that one. There's always the Integral MK1 XL, which with the light floor option comes in pretty darn light. For a double wall under 5 lbs.: Hilleberg Nallo 2 gets you there and it is a very nice tent. I had it out last winter some and was very impressed. I've also used the Big Agnes String Ridge 2, and was very pleasantly surprised with its 4-season ability; mine weighs 5lbs. 4oz all up (body, fly, poles, 10 stakes, a full set of guylines). If I had to pick one of the two I'd probably take the Hille. An acquaintance of mine also rocks the Tenshi and loves it.

Thanks for the write up!

I guess that would narrow my choices. I'll have to give 'em a ring. I think in the long run I'll probably end up going the custom route with CCW, or the like (as per your choice Dane), but I feel like I need to smoke a few more solid alpine packs before I know what I really want. I'd still consider trying a semi-custom CCW now for the low cost involved.

Yeah I miscalculated that.