BigSky

Apparently it is a microporous PU...interesting. Even with a hydrophobic treatment, eventually as CFM goes up you will give up water resistance. I'm interested in Polartec's answer to this issue.

Word on the street is that Neoshell is oleophobic (a la eVent)--negating the Gore style PU backing--but not a PTFE...did they (Polartec) give any detailed technical info to that affect or otherwise Dane? Thanks

Indeed. Whatever the case it appears that there will be another player or two in the highly breathable wp/b game, which is great. I bet Neoshell et al. will be the final blow to the hybrid shell.

My ice partner this weekend was in Neoshell. His inclination: more breathable than eVent, but doesn't touch the better stretch woven's or micropiled windshirts (i.e. vapour-rise, driclime) for breathability. Is it cool stuff? Yes. But...it's never going to wick like a shelled micropile or napped stretch woven (i.e. dryskin extreme). The weave density will limit dry times compared to traditional softshells as well--fast drying time is incredibly important to me and would pretty much negate this as a softshell replacement in my gear line-up. Also, you really have to keep up on the DWR with anything stretchy or it will wet out fast--not really a big deal but needs to be kept in mind. I'll probably pick up a piece or two in Neoshell and would be likely to use it as a hardshell in some situations but I don't think it will be a paradigm shift for me. I'll likely try it within the next month and can give a more educated opinion at that point.

I was up in the Mummy II/Matrix/Cave+Gully/Feeding the Cat area on Saturday and didn't see another soul until we got back to Fat Chance. Everything was hanging in there just fine. There was evidence of a little warming last week but no significant changes really. Be prepared for a slog to anything off the beaten path--was not expecting waste deep powder after turning off toward the Matrix (hardly off the beaten path of course). Lots of new snow and heavy wind on top of that last warm-up has stuff drifted in pretty well and avy conditions could be better. Heard a couple slides rip through early Saturday.

The Momemtum is a boxier cut than the Latok Alpine. Slightly shorter arms and a bit more volume in general. The Latok Alpine is about as skinny/long arm a cut as I have been able to find in a large hardshell of any make.

Loads of moderate ice within 30 minutes of the Hyalite parking lot and TR's abound.

Can't see using cold weather synthetic bags. Roll with a VBL on extended trips and any decent down shell fabric will shed exterior moisture in the cold. Very narrow range of conditions that I'd even consider a synth. bag for, such that I've sold both of mine without regret.

Scepter is close and 5. Might as well do Mummy II (4-) which is right next door and fun. Twin falls (3) and Cleo's (5) would be another nice combo in your range. Dribbles is the classic multi at 4. The unnamed wall is close and offers a lot of options, many mixed.

The Matrix Tech is around $220 now, but still a great deal and they've treated me right. The picks were really the biggest concern for me but they have held up to lots of ice, a little mixed, and plenty of moss/crud top outs--can't deny they could be more versatile, but I'm happy with the compromise. Now that I've swung the Matrix for a couple of seasons I'd be interested to give the Quantums a run to compare. Thanks for the review.

Thanks for the free recon! Great TR.

I know one individual who climbs on them...funny thing is he's pushing it in on Hyalite 3 TR. High praise on the book, that's great!

Looks like some work, well done.

Tag

Another option if you're up for the drive to Bozeman is the Ice Opener on the 17th/18th of December. It's $20 for a day on the ice with the Montana Mountaineering Association, demo boots/crampons/tools (or bring your own if you wish), and lunch. The info is here, or you can click on the Prolite link and contact them for more info. Climb Sat. w/ MMA, and bring your rope/etc. and toprope Sunday on your own. My wife did it last year and had a good time.

Nice photos! Looks like you had a blast. Plowing beyond the reservoir has been a little sporadic, but has been good enough...they just got it yesterday afternoon.

First, no personal experience with the Trient. Since you requested alternatives... I'm not a big proponent of waterproof/breathable membranes on a belay jacket as I believe they hinder more than help in many cases. For another option in that range the Rab Photon is a nice jacket. A little more insulation and several ounces lighter than the Trient (and less expensive). My father-in-law has one and it's been a solid piece. My choice in that range is an ID PLQ with a retrofitted Dolomitti hood; not quite as polished a product as the Photon.

Cool write-up, thanks Dane.

On the Matrix Light's in particular its kind of nice for high dagger position--insulates the hand a bit. Not sure if that was the purpose or not.

I've tried on the Radikal Pro's and like the feel--and the boa system. They are VERY stiff. I'd like them for an ice cragging style boot. I have a pair of Radikal Light's and the compression/breathing system the Radikal line uses works quite well.

Bearbreeder is right on.

I've had the Matrix Tech since last fall and like them a lot. The geometry is perfect for my swing; they were a natural fit right away. The picks could be more user friendly to change, but I like their lines and they are tough. Even without an upper trigger I can choke up for a move or two without wishing for more. I'm no guru, but any specific questions? Hope this is of use for you.

Good post, pretty much sums it up.

I climbed on the X-ice's one night just to try them out. They are not far removed from the Camp Awax, which I like. Call Prolite Gear in Bozeman at 1-406-582-0508 and ask for Brad, he climbed on them all last season and could give you a more comprehensive review.

Very nice work.