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Everything posted by Water
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Saw a smallish 1-2 person`ish 1st ascent dealy last summer in Mt. Adams Cold Springs lot before typical weekend onslaught. Yellow & white similar to these but not the lemon-lime neon green-yellow. similar vestibule look, think it was single-walled, seemed like it could (emphasis) clock in around 4#s. That has some market if it is mountain-worthy.
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i use the reactor year around almost. i am only ever boiling water or melting snow, never 'cooking' and it just works flawlessly. Stability--no it is not like a jetboil, it doesn't lock onto the burner, but I don't think it is unreasonable. I've used mine perhaps 40-50 times in different conditions/locations/seasons and never once had an accidental tip-over. it melts snow like a champ, anyone who sees it for the first time in action is always instantly sold. I have a lot of gear I can 'waffle' on about if this brand/model or that brand/model is better or not but I never ever think twice about the reactor.
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selling cause no hood on this, need cash after buying ski stuff. classic from backcountry.com. This is actually made by westcomb, made in canada (have compared early westcomb softshells to it--identical stitching/fabric/pull cords)--before backcountry revamped as stoic and shipped production to china. again look for review online
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any pdx folks rec on where to get dynafits mounted? e-omc/usoutdoor/mnt shop? cdmike, I'll politely get confirmation if the REI tuala tech has experience w/ dynafits. properly being more or less whats on wildsnow as opposed to? next mounting i'll do myself. want to ski my setup this weekend but do not have the time to do it before then.
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you can get brand spankin new USGS topos from USGS website. They do not have trails on them and of the few I have looked at (like Mt. Hood) they were grossly mislabeled (Leutholds Couloir for Sandy Glacier Headwall, etc). You just go to USGS and use their online system.
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Skis came today, bindings tomorrow. While there are some 'issues' with the Radical ST, they seem to impact a relatively small amount of users and are not a compromise in safety (like the stainless sabertooth rumblings). Question for Portlanders.. Recommended place to get them mounted? Tualatin REI is across the street from my work and have said they do dynafit mounts. It is super convenient for me to drop them there than driving downtown or to east side. But rather have a good mount if there is a hairs diff in anyones book going to mnt shop/eomc/us outdoor thanks--looking forward to getting out with my own gear this weekend, should have gotten into all this a year or two ago1
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bump... again..any takers?
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real sad mostly, what a shit. While I never seriously worry, unfortunately in this day and age the thought crosses my mind whenever I leave a camp setup and go off for the day, unless camped high on the flanks of a volcano. My renters insurance actually covers this assuming a certain value is met (think it is $300 or $500..)
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1) The advice here is free and opinion, not guide-on-retainer everything said is backed up with a guarantee. On everything, you need to ultimately decide for yourself--whether snowshoes, anchor types, poles, etc. 2) Poles. Entirely opinion.. but I use them all the time, nice on the up, nice on the down. Useful as anchors, don't weigh much. But put snow baskets on or don't bother taking them. A single 3 piece pole can be deconstructed into 3 anchors, for instance. Some people like 1 pole--myself I take 2 and stash them or collapse them and put on pack when I have to. 3) a shovel is an invaluable tool to have when on snow. And as a safety/emergency tool to dig a snow cave/pit/trench to protect/reduce exposure. 4) Can you go out for a weekend and test your equipment on the snow and maybe go up a small hill or lesser peak? You can have carbon fiber titanium uber everything but really the greatest too and value is your brain and knowing (experiencing) how things actually work prior to 'needing' them to work. Not just 'in theory'. Obviously a test-run is not a pre-req to success on Shasta but all things equal.. it is a bit like planning to run some rapids in a kayak or canoe without just running the kayak/canoe on some flat water or a relaxed river to get a sense of how it performs. I think if you can get a test run or two in you will contribute to a greater chance of success on shasta and do yourself a big favor. Less items to worry about, less things to focus on that are secondary to the climbing itself.
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that is bizzaro. REIs around here sell the maps individually as do any other gear shops that stock them. I don't know what your shipping would be.. call up REI in eugene or bend about the green trails maps for 3 sis for instance and ask. The geographics one for 3 sisters i think is probably better than separate green trails, imo. http://www.amazon.com/Three-Sisters-Wilderness-Area-Map/dp/078341384X even has a guy with an ice ax on it, so you know it is legit. hehe - only thing that sucks is it is paper that can deteriorate easily unlike those trails illustrated maps which are quite nice.
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Sig... you're going solo to Shasta or will you have a partner? 4 pickets is crazy weight and totally overkill imo! save yourself the cost and more importantly the weight. myself I bring 7 snow stakes-that holds my 4 corners and 3 side-wall guy lines, then 2 small crapper stakes for two little spots on either side of my tent. I'll use poles and other items if I need more guy lines (off the 4 vertices on each corner). I could probably pare down the snowstakes and use items I bring..maybe next trip I'll forgo and see how it works out. cheers
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hard to know for sure. First week of July you'll still have a lot of snow. Some places...like the upper part of S. Sister's S. Ridge..... North Sister's SE Ridge..etc never accumulate much snow since they are narrow/it blows off..I have seen those be sections of scree even when I was on snow galore down lower in the trees. But early July no, to my knowledge does not entitle all those to be raging scree climbs of the variety you'd find if you came in later August or September. http://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/snow/ all snotels on a tehgoogle map: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=http://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/ftpref/data/water/wcs/earth/snotelwithlabels.kmz&sll=45.467836,-108.446045&sspn=5.369953,8.712158&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=4 maps...maps... hmm.. there is a geographics map that has all 3 sisters. additionally Green Trails for cascades. Not sure about Shasta and Lassen. If you have access to a printer you can use http://caltopo.com/ or other map products to print a custom section.
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Good Ski Mountaineering Boots for wider feet?
Water replied to Marmot Prince's topic in The Gear Critic
I don't think the boots will help you to cover snow covered terrain better than snowshoes. You will need skis too. But you could give it a try. if i didn't know better this is a marmot-parody of me since I just went through this process and have about the same foot dimensions As a size 9-9.5 street/hiking, I tried on a lot of boots and 26.5 was the size of most that seemed like the best match. I have a flat foot that splays when weighted, but otherwise low volume and narrow heel. I ended up with Garmont Axons (older model)..they just fit the best overall. Narrower boots lead to foot cramping within about 15 minutes of having them on.. probably could be worked on to improve that but outta the box the axons felt good. I am pretty sure I tried on zome ZZero4s and still they didnt feel as good as the ol axon. Garmont Radiums which I think Axons upgraded to..had much more volume for my foot so they were a no go. good luck trying much on right now, things are really picked over, but good prices abound. brands (not necessarily good): garmont scarpa black diamond la sportiva (recommend the STRATOS EVO for you) happy hunting -
Hood - Something interesting - This weekend
Water replied to B Deleted_Beck's topic in Climbing Partners
probably be out w/ group of 3 to do leuths Fri nite/Sat AM. thinking outta the lot around 2ish, buffer time/dig a pit on the west side of zeee iLL saddle. full moon so should be plenty-o-light. ill say hi if i see you ben -
Brandon, If this is going to live in your pack, I don't think the EXTRA 12oz is worth getting something other than paclite. The Paclite will work. It just doesn't breath well and isn't as durable is what I've read at a wide range of places on the net. FWIW my first main climbing partner had a basic paclite jacket (no pit zips) that did the job for him in all conditions from backpacking to climbing in 5 degrees in december to being in the sun in june on south sister.. and all between, he never complained a bit. so, take it with a grain of salt as far as the poo-poo on paclite. contrary to millions of dollars of marketing, if you are very physically active in any hard shell or almost any softshell, you will feel hot, will sweat, and will feel moist/clammy. same goes for backpacks that keep that gap of space and put mesh on your back instead of the backpad-it aint any magical air conditioner. Significant improvements over a fully poly/rubber rain coat. Relatively minor hair One thing to consider... with your REI dividend..not sure your financial setup but you can get that money back as cash in July. I know it can be easy to focus on using the dividend and 20% to get the 'item i most need' from REI.. but their selection is often pretty weeded over w/ the sale/dividend and such. I guess something to weigh if you have the financial liberty to look elsewhere.
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a friend had the mont blanc boots and they looked pretty burly, reminded me of my lowa mnt experts kinda. That said they didnt fit his foot worth a darned and he got hambergered on the shins and heels after a pretty minimal climb in the snow. Then again there is a lot you can do with insoles, lacing, and socks to help mitigate if you have a generally good fit.
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i have never heard good stuff about paclite but maybe it has changed over a few years. It is light but I consider it the red-headed stepchild of brand-name w/b laminates. If options are available I'd choose performance shell, pro shell, eVent, or polartec neowhatever over paclite. You're on track to upgrade from a precip which can be fine in the summer or nicer spring days, but the DWR on them goes quick and they're kind of a cheapo-get the job done just 'ok'-shell. I had one for a number of years. Not sure if you have a line on a great price or something but anything from Arc'teryx is generally needlessly more $$$ in my opinion. Though often well made with a stand-up warranty department, so it isn't entirely money for naught. For just basic snow climbing in all seasons I'd say go with what fits and has the features you like. Are you planning on throwing a puffy under it or over it? Dane (I think) had some interesting blog posts on that.. Pit zips are ++. I have an eVent jacket I generally love that pans it is so breathable it doesn't need pitzips. I beg to differ, even some softshells damn well need them when you're moving hard pitzips are the best way to quickly dump heat. But they add weight. If money is no object turn your gaze upon westcomb, they make a great range of shells in different weights and combos with pitzips/or not. Really even if it meets basic needs and you're having trouble choosing between a few, go with your favorite color.
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damn that greenhouse is awesome...
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kaiman, I'll take a stab without diving into it too much. Summer in the NW 'reliably' starts after 4th of july. As in if I was having a friend visit for a week to get outdoors, I'd probably err towards making the plans for July over June (for weather predictability). I like June more for snow conditions though (more of it) weather aside. But central OR does seem to get off easier esp that time of year--more likely to have better conditions in June to the south than the north (you're correct). I can't dig in now but do a search for snotel stuff-Oregon Cascades got a lot this past month so above say 4500ft there is average or above average snowpack I believe.
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Thanks for the help here. Ended up with Garmont Axons.. they are heavier than dynafit stuff, absolutely.. but they fit best of what I tried on (i have a very flat foot the splays out a bit wide when I weight it, lower volume, narrow heel)... They were a steal as well being last year's model. I'm happy with it as a place to start as I was willing to spend what I needed to have comfort, it was a happy surprise at the register when they range up bunches below the price the guy thought they were when I was trying them on. I've been on tgr tay and a handful of sites and just need to get some damn skis. I demod some nanuqs at 177 (a bit long but all they had) this weekend.. overall happy but i'm sure i was not able to fully utilize them in the pow.. more fun than the waybacks or the manaslus I tested, but that could be my ability improving. Anyways my taste and preference for what I like just isn't refined to make researching skis more do anything to help me..so I am thinking of getting either of these for a hair under $400. At that point if I hate either I don't have heart burn paying for a ski that meets my needs and prefs more fully once I've actually established them. Line Prophet 90 (172cm).. heavier, going to hold up better to learning curve mistakes and physical abuse, geared more towards resort G3 Saint (170).. cosmetic blemish.. lighter weight and more BC appropriate probably. maybe more to grow into as a ski. I'd like to just order some damn skis today and be done with it. Any thoughts/suggestions of the two? next up.. which dynafit bindings..though the 2012 model redesigns keep seeming to have minor issues pop up on wildsnow? then everyone seems to pimp those plum bindings too.. thanks
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bump--- OBO
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there is no public transit other than a taxi? that would take you from hood to trout lake. btw from trout lake to climbing is still another ~20-30 minutes of driving. Your best bet on any transportation stuff is someone with a car, or renting a car.
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Kathy, Just had her try them on. She has a fairly narrow foot and she just tried them on for me--said they are 'average' not closer to wide or to narrow. She is an 8.5-9 and occasionally 9.5 in hiking boots. She said if you're a 9-9.5 most of the time then they would probably be too small, but if you're a '9' like she is they would probably be ok but her toes are right near the tip. i work at I5 and 217 and am over by hosford middle school (SE 28th & division) on wednesday evenings. If you ever wanted to try them on i got no prob with that. flex on price if they 'sorta' work for ya.
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that Rab Latok Mountain is an updated rendition of the Rab Summit Mountain. Looks like they added 10cm width, 5cm length, and 10cm height. I'd have to check one out in person to really see how it spaces and all but the summit mountain is a tight fit and i would not recommend it for 6footer/(s). I'm 5'8" and it is fine. I've shared it toe-head with someone 5'11 or 6ft and it was ok since we were good partners but it was tight, not much extra room for stuff if you've got puffy winter bags too, they'll be touching the walls plenty...which i dont worry about for me since my bag has a w/p shell
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gregory S., The Mountain Experts are EXCELLENT boots I've used for the past 3 years and probably 700 miles on them all told. BUT..yes spend the time to figure your boots out. The advice that if they don't feel good to begin with is really stellar. Anytime I've bought a boot, hiking, mountaineering, skiing, etc..I spend a long time and try a lot of options, will temporarily have a huge credit card bill from Zappos if I have to... but I've really never had a blister, this includes 1500miles on the appy trail and maybe 1500 miles since I've lived out here. And I have a total swamp foot..hell my feet sweat when I wear sandles--but a good boot fit and liner sock negates the blister causing friction. good luck, keep trying boots on. I too am a fan of trying to use any of that REI dividend/coupon/etc...if you think you have a good fit from there the plus side is you can return the boot to them if it doesn't work for you. They purvey this idea even when I've been trying on boots there in the past. But if they have nothing that fits and feels 'great' you should go to other stores and try other stuff on, really.