YocumRidge

Trip: Valdez, AK - Date: 3/31/2013 Trip Report: I hear there is a warm rock to climb somewhere but who needs rock if there is ice and it is already April. You just have to get there and find out for yourself. In the end of March my friend JR and I flew into the former part of the Russian empire which our tzars so ingeniously got rid off in the 19th century. In Anchorage, we had rented a clown car ($7/day) thanks to J. Frieh’s advise: and made that famous 305 mile drive to Valdez. Sometimes on sheer ice while passing the rigs flipped over and sitting in the ditches off the Richardson hwy, then over the passes in the blizzard, but imagine that - we slid off the road only once the entire trip! Matanuska glacier en route to Valdez: “Light dusting of snow” as per the local Wx forecast was a recurrent theme and Valdez happened to get 4 feet of fresh over a few days we stayed there. No shit Alaskan transportation and accommodation. Please note: a U-haul. Ivan used to live in one of those for a week BITD on his way back from Denali : Port of Valdez in between the snow dumps: 200 m ice routes 5 min from the hwy in the Keystone canyon: Bridalveil Falls, Simple Twist of Fate, Keystone Greensteps, although this time anything less than vertical was generously snow covered, so be prepared to climb steeper lines or do a lot of snow excavating. Pick your poison: We ended up climbing the bluest ice visible from the road: Horsetail Falls 80 m (2x) The Bight 45 m (2x) Bridalveil Falls 185 m Hung Jury 55 m Horsetail falls with the wind formed caves and umbrellas (belay from the car if you wish): On the Horsetail falls: JR on the Horsetail falls: The Bight: On the approach: On the Bight: JR on the Bight (weird under the tree crawling top out): Bridalveil Falls (JR is at the base, for scale reference): On the p1 to the first cave on the left (bolts): Starting up the p2 curtain and traverse to the second cave on the right by the “Killer Pillar” (no bolts): On the p3 to the second cave: The grass is always greener, and the ice on the right side of the Killer Pillar seemed better. It was not. One screw was placed for extra style points. JR starting up the Killer Pillar: JR midway on the pillar: On the easy top out (p5): On the way down, we stopped at the cave and took a minute to explore it. Why you need to go to Valdez: Sunlight refraction: Feu de Glace: JR bouldering in the cave: Hung Jury No doubt, the best chunk of ice I ever climbed. From the AlaskaIceClimbing.com: "This route consists of scoops, umbrellas, and bells that extend from base to top. These formations occur as a result of the unusual wind patterns in the area of this route that blow upward. As a result, ice conditions can vary on this route and one may be required to take a circuitous route to the top." Due to its “circuitous” nature and continuous spindrifts, we broke it up in two pitches. JR heading up the p1: Can you see him? "The circuitous route". Although Robert Frost is not my favorite poet, I find embarking on the figurate path away from the mainstream somewhat rewarding: Getting ready for the next pitch: The real deal: The last day it was heavily snowing again so we went skiing in the Mineral Creek. Thanks to the local heli ski guides who pointed out Wellness Center where you can rent any kind of skis for free and for as long as you need. No Nomics though. At the Mineral Creek: Wowie Zowzie – 1 hr ski from Valdez: Gear Notes: Nomics and Cobras Expect to make your own V-threads. Approach Notes: Alaska Airlines and clown car

Looks like a nice day out, Oleg!

It certainly would make for one of the best contenders if not for anything, but for its rock quality. What an amazing rock, fantastic rock, so solid and clean! Just begging to be picked, and if you don't like its location, go ahead and move it around .

Brad and Nate, Portland, OR. They made it through the three gendarmes.

What he said - if planning on skiing the right gully aka "5". You might wanna bring some gear to rap off (KB/angles - as the ice might not be your best option) These guys http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=966443 climbed and skied NE face - 50 deg snow with no raps required. My personal preference would be to climb NF and ski down Cooper Spur: [video:youtube]

Vitaliy on the Ravine, Hood.

Sunset on Mt. Robson, Canadian Rockies

Hi Rafal . Thanks for the input. I will be there too next week and was curious about the recent warming trend. What are our chances of getting into the Ghost in the Prius with studded tires? Too "adventurous"?

Yep, I saw that and we had already bailed on the BS idea, Brian. Heading to WA instead, looks better up there for a change.

Works from my ancient Mac: [video:vimeo]59181866

Next time, Cameron. How is Copenhagen treating you?

Yeah, I wish that was the case. A recon needed. May be, Ivan ?

Thanks, Ben. Not much snow on the gendarmes and not much rime either, hmmm..

Is it when you lived in the U-haul for a week?

Thanks, Ben. Yep, the icefall was unusually bad, especially for winter. JR is highly doubtful he will ever be back on Hood . How was Reid otherwise? Any pics of Yocum? I hear it is a good route .

I second what SS said. You have probably also read this: "Despite the beautiful line, the rock on the lower Cleaver is dangerous. One climber described it as a slimy sludge. Another climber said the rock [on the Cleaver] looked like it was squeezed out of a giant toothpaste tube". You might get lucky as it is now frozen and try to swing your tools into that compound . Re: approaching the headwall. Traversing above the shrund is an easier option later in the season, although right now the shrund seems to be easily crossable if you gain the headwall from the lower Eliot between Snow Dome and the Cleaver as a couple of friends just did 2 weeks ago. Eliot Headwall as of 01/20/2013: From my personal communication with Jeff Thomas: first ascentionists in May 1958 approached the headwall via the summit, Cathedral Ridge and traversing above the shrund.

Thanks, Tim! It is what happens when Lillooet was a suspect .

Solo? Arggh, I could not get off work on Fri anyway...

Trip: HOOD - North Face right gully - car to bar Date: 2/2/2013 Trip Report: I love North Face on Hoodie. A legit winter route and my favorite at that when hit in right conditions. For the last few weeks I was crippled by a weird lung infection and as such was not able to get out climbing much. The last weekend the stars finally aligned with the high pressure conveniently settled in for at least 24 hr and although still coughing as a bad TB patient, I was feeling better. My friend JR arrived from Seattle on Fri night after work and we headed to the Tilly Jane TH where we unsuccessfully tried to get some zzz. Not much luck there, we started up the trail at 3800' after midnight, looking forward to the usual 5000’ approach. 12.30 a.m. alpine start: JR at the TJ A-frame: After the crampons were on at 6700’ at the always windy Cooper Spur, we dropped down on to the lower Eliot at the usual spot and hiked up to the shrund by the North face on nice alpine ice with some styrofoam thrown in. North side of Hood in winter usually creates its own microclimate with the temps running 10-15F lower than on the south side at the same elevation. No exception was this time: morning inversion SE winds and single digits at 8800’. Originally from AK, the JR’s most substantial layer turned out to be a Patagonia Nano Puff Fish Fur 1. “It is the one and only I have on today” – hmmm, way light and fast for my taste, but I guess it is how they are bred up there in AK . Still in the dark, we spotted an ice block, dug in and I pulled a Fission SL out of my pack to make JR’s existence less miserable and hoping that may be he would get some sleep: Waiting for the sun to rise: Cooper Spur at sunrise: Eliot at sunrise: We climbed the right gully in two blocks: I took the bottom part including the shrund, part of the North Cleaver, swinging traverse and through the first ice step; while JR got the second rock band/ice step and the summit pinnacle. Approaching the shrund with the left and right ice steps above me: The closer we got, the more life-threatening objects was hammering us from above as expected. For as long as it would not annihilate us. To make things better, the snow bridge that I successfully used 2 weeks ago - http://nobolts.blogspot.com/2013/01/mt-hood-north-face-right-gully-attempt.html - was no longer there. A constant reminder that this mountain is ever metamorphosing living being. Feeling desperate, I downclimbed inside the shrund and traversed over trying to find something better than the overhanging paper thin snow failing at my weighted tools. With not many available options, I went all way to the North Cleaver and pulled through the half a pitch of rock and ice up there before dropping back down for the swinging traverse to the first ice step. Disappearing in the shrund: Traversing over the shrund: The Cleaver bypass of the shrund: On the swinging traverse to the base of the first ice step: Starting up the first ice step: It is exactly when the real shit show had begun: the whole mountain was falling apart and the gully turned into one giant garbage chute. According to JR, the first ice step I “led” aka free soloed was all rotten ice for more than a rope length. I have no memories on this one - I climbed it blind. My crampons blew twice and I was nearly loosing it – not recommended. Emotionally traumatized and physically tortured, I was really hoping our life will improve as we gain elevation and may be just may be we will go home in the end . Thank gawd JR came up alive and took the next simul block. Our lives and upward progress did improve as we reached the second rock band/ice step. Finally we were moving and making up for all the time lost down below. JR en route to the second ice step: JR on the second ice step: We barely could believe the hero plastic ice was awaiting above. Yep, it was that good. A thought crossed our minds to hang a TR and start running laps: The obligatory shot of Cathedral Spire: The summit pinnacle: The summit cornice (better than expected): Topping out: JR on the lonely summit at 3 p.m. His first time on Hood: March Madness and I-rock. "The best mixed climbing on the West coast. Period." - Wayne Wallace Alpenglow descent to the T-lodge: The slog down was via the Old Chute where we bumped into a very nice rappelling party of 4 from Bozeman who gave us a ride back to our rig after we crawled out of a bar at the T-lodge next morning . Gear Notes: 60 m rope, 5 screws, 2 pickets, 4 Cobras Approach Notes: Tilly Jane TH

Yesterday we climbed McCrea Creek falls in the Entiat valley as a group of 4, including one 12 y.o. After obtaining the permission to park in the private driveway (near MP 22) and hike across their property, the approach was chill 10 min. McCrea from the base: One full 60 m pitch: Our 12 y.o. ripping it with Nomics Pouring shower midway: Anita on the topout: Rapped off the bush with pre-existing sling: What do ardenvoirs eat?

Nice work, Steopich. Like Crack mentioned, the conditions on Denman were definitely "varied" aka free soloing Gotta love WA ice.

Had a phone conversation with Bill a couple days ago that the publisher is getting very close to the finish line. To all the contributing authors who did not yet: PLEASE, send a photo of yourself showing your face and 2-3 sentences of bio to Bill Mullee by email at your earliest convenience. THANKS!

Oh, we came prepared and pitched in the tent on screws.

Totally forgot about this one. My first alpine fall, kind of embarrassing. I was naively hoping that the overhanging slush would withstand my efforts of pounding a Spectre in the small ice patch I found in that shrund but in vain My 2012 highlight was a 2000' "descent" of the Willis Wall , surviving its famous rock fall, plunging into its shrund and busting my ankle. Highly not recommended. Getting stuck between ice walls in the middle of the Coe's Gl. Icefall in October, 1 bivy on the ice ledge and 20 V-threaded raps. Beautiful route, but so terminally freaky, like Baltoro on K2: On the "approach": Bivvy on Coe: [video:vimeo]50950067

Cool, guys! Surprise, surprise... They always do when they smell your presence at a distance I am still perplexed how on earth was possible to get dragged by the cops TWICE within 60 min on that infamous drive to Hood with you.