YocumRidge

My 2 year old GRIGRI2 shows a substantial wear of the metal plate next to the handle. With the same use, I would expect to see a hole in this place in 6 months after which the device would need to be get rid off. Did anyone run into the same problem? GRIGRI2 are 20% smaller and lighter than the original version but also seem to be 200% less durable. Very disappointing. Some partners are still using the original GRIGRIs for more than 10 years and theirs look brand new compared to mine.

That is how you are watching you waistline, John

Very nice, Laurel! Canada is paying off . How did the ice look on J-burg?

It is the E Lolo pass road. Yes, it is open all the way over the pass and yes, is drivable even in my sports car

Yes, Snow Dragon had partially collapsed a couple months ago: http://www.opb.org/news/blog/newsblog/mt-hood-glacier-cave-featured-by-oregon-field-guide-collapses/ but you still can get in it.

Trip: Sandy glacier caves - Pure Imagination pillar Date: 3/1/2015 Trip Report: Apparently, in WA you are supposed to hike to 9000' to find and climb free standing ice pillars. Oregon is cooler than that - you can just get underground on our own volcanoes to do the same thing. Crackman (Tim) and I went to the Sandy glacier caves on Sunday and climbed the most prominent water ice pillar inside the Pure Imagination. For those who are not familiar with these ice caves, the extensive exploration, mapping and survey have been done by Brent McGregor and the Oregon professional cavers a few years ago, which was later aired on OPB: SANDY GLACIER CAVES We drove all way to the snow-free Top Spur TH in the Tim's truck that came in handy as the FS road 1828 was generously covered in downfall. The hike in to the caves was uneventful and took us 3.5 hrs from the truck. First view of the ice caves, Sandy glacier, Cathedral and Yocum ridges: At the McNeil shelter: Traversing to the caves - Snow Dragon is on the left and Pure Imagination on the right: Entering the Pure Imagination: Inside the Pure Imagination: Looking up at the pillar through the skylight: [video:vimeo]121104388 After refueling with cold pizza and pork chops in the cave, we climbed the pillar and both led it on the shitty screws: Tim's turn: Happy Tim at the base: An awesome adventure and totally worth the hike. How often do you come across the free standing pillars in Oregon? Thanks, Tim! Gear Notes: Standard ice rack and a single 60 m rope. Approach Notes: Top Spur TH via E Lolo Pass road. The access is currently snow-free.

That was and is my continuing nightmare - finding the ice gloves that work. $$$ already wasted and still no ideal glove found. To begin with, I have cold small hands with thin fingers and, with such package, getting screaming barfies at least once per day is a must. I found that the severity of pain however largely depends on the outside temps and the glove design/insulation. Specifically, Primaloft 1 or wool plus Event insert is my current preference for technical rock and ice in -30C range. If glove fingers are too tight, you cut off blood circulation which leads to the same outcome - barfies. If the glove fingers are too boxy or long, you fiddle with gear for eternity. Another consideration is gauntlet style versus velcro closure. I prefer gauntlet gloves because of the ease of adjusting them over the layers which also provides for a better fit. Velcro cuffs are way more time-consuming to stick under the layers, plus oftentimes the glove would bulge and the fit would suck (like is the case with the 2012 First Ascent Primaloft Guide gloves which would be the perfect glove with a gauntlet). My current favorite (which was ingeniously discontinued) for -30C range is the 2012 Ice Gauntlet glove by RAB. Super warm - thanks to Primaloft 1, always dry (Event), great grip and flexibility. Unfortunately, Rab has now totally changed the fit of these gloves: fingers are too tight and long and the sizing is off. My second go-to ice glove for very low temps is the Shak 2-layer glove by Ibex. Water resistant softshell outer and leather palm plus dense wool insulation. What I like about this glove is they mold to your fingers, rarely cause severe barfies and are very durable. For mild temps (to -15C), I use Mountain Hardwear Hydra gauntlet gloves (not very warm and not very durable but totally waterproof with a good grip) and OR Prophets (GoreTex insert plus wool insulation - although like all good things, they are also discontinued). I am currently looking at TNF Vengeance gloves and would appreciate any input if anyone tried them? As for rapping, I am not Gene Pires and rapping with bare hands at -30C would send me straight to a hospital with a frostbite. So, I end up using waterproof and lightly insulated approach gloves with high dexterity like Rab Baltoro.

What he said. I had realized a while ago if you want to get up the routes, find a partner(s) named Dan.

Sold.

Up for sale is my 20 L Cilo Gear Worksack. $50. Almost new and in perfect condition - used once on the north ridge of Stuie. The minimalist, no-thrills, sturdy climbing pack. This one has a custom reinforcement on the front for carrying extra loads and comes with a strap hip belt (the original version does not). Standard features: 10 oz 1 internal zipped pocket 2 external mesh pockets water bladder compartment with the opening

1. Hung Jury - Valdez, AK Cleopatra Needle - Hyalite, MT Price Gl. - Shuksan Ice Cliff Arete - Stuie Goldrush - Eureka, CO 2. Yocum Ridge - Hood Polar Circus - Mt. Cirrus North Ridge - Mt. Columbia North Buttress - Bear Mt. Epinephrine - Black Velvet 3. Spray ice Niagara falls

Cleo's was super fat today, what a treat. The center of the Dribbles headwall fell down, but the left side still went for us on Fri in a hollow sketchy WI4+ shape. The colder temps this week might improve things shortly.

The best sales pitch on climbing gear I have seen in a while... "Ultimate Ice Axes of ultimate destiny! Colloquially known as the BD Viper. These weapons of mass destruction are the strong mans tool of choice. With the ability to displace vast amounts of ice, they offer an experience those of the utmost physical burl and mental robustness crave. If you need to pre-emptively shut down a russian revolution, or bash the sweet mercy Jersus out of the local classics, this is the instrument for the job! They are the veritable Excalibur of axes. Now these particular tools are experienced, which might sound to the untrained ear as "used to shit", but lets reframe that. Just like a new sex partner, you want ice tools that know what they're doing. It's simply safer that way. These axes have seen things! And they're not fazed! Honey Badgers of the ice world! They've frozen their tuckass in Norway, slammed around all the Rockies classics, FA'd all across the maritimes, and even repelled intruders from a poorly thought out evening in Bangkok. I guarantee these tools won't let you down. Of note… They come with an extra fucking pick! How sweet is that!?! No charge! You might ask yourself, "Why, are those sexy ass tools of ultimate destiny covered in green bike tape?"… Because; 1) Hipsters love the colour choice! 2) It insulates the tool on those especially cold days! 3) It is so grippy, you couldn't possibly fall off due to loss of grip. Literally, you'll stick to these tools! Now you think?! "These tools are amazing! Why could he possibly be selling them?!" Well, it hurts to say, but I'm getting old and soft. I can no longer handle the magnificent destructive power of these ice axes. I'm being forced to be a bitch and go Nomic. Help a brother out?! Obviously in Calgary I can ask quadruple the price. But for the Bow Valley I'll make some deals. $350 Firm "

Nice work, boyz. I was supposed to come out to Beaconland today too but sick as a puppy, ended up vomiting all weekend long.

So devastating. I simply cannot believe he fell. I just saw him before the new year, so stoked he wanted to climb Yocum, but weather never materialized and then he left for AK. My condolences to his friends and family. RIP, Dasan.

Here is Buckaroo coming out of his climbing retirement and who after O/N drive from Seattle jumped straight on a 5. A nice warm-up . Icy BC - p3 Sounds like the worst is now over and you are on the road to a full recovery. Heal up quickly, man!

I had a good year with lots of ice and rock that has been climbed. Jan - Ouray/Silverton/Eureka, CO. Mostly longer backcountry routes: The Ribbon, Highway to Hell, Stairway to Heaven and my CO favorite so far which was in the exceptional shape last year - the Goldrush. Stairway to Heaven (peak 13419'): On the crux of the Stairway to Heaven: The Goldrush: Jan/Feb - two trips to Cody, WY with one short stop in Hyalite canyon, MT: Duck Soup, Broken Hearts, Bozo's Revenge (2x), Moonrise, High on Boulder (2x), Smoked Turkey, Main Vein; The Dribbles, Magically Delicious, Mouse Trap. South Fork, WY: On the crux of High on Boulder: Feb - my annual pilgrimage to Can Rockies before the siberian temps kicked us out to Lilloett, BC. Gibraltar wall right side (Canal Flats, BC), Moonlight (Canmore, AB), Guinness and Guinness Stout (Field, BC), Marble Canyon (AB), South Ghost (AB): Sunshine, Aquarius, Malignant Mushroom. Gib wall: "Laurel-promised-not-to-fall" top out: Nice views down on Kootenay river: Arrival to the Ghost - big walls everywhere: Getting up to the Recital Hall: In the Recital Hall: Fearful Symmetry and Rainbow Serpent: Life was good in Canmore in the balmy -25C but we left for Lilloett: Lilloett, BC: Icy BC, White Room, Honeyman falls, Oregon Jack. Icy BC: In the White Room: On Honeyman: March - return to Can rockies: Professors, Carlsberg, Weathering Heights, Anorexia Nervosa. On the Professors: Back to the Ghost: Phantom area (with Malignant Mushroom): On the Anorexia Nervosa: On Weathering Heights: April - my first trip to Vantage: May - Red Rocks, NV. Rental clown cars are great for getting into the Black Velvet canyon. Main park: Mescalito tower - East Face and Dark Shadows, Ginger Cracks, Icebox canyon, Bitches Brew, Purblind Pillar. Black Velvet canyon: Frogland, Windy peak (Jubilee Song), Prince of Darkness. Mescalito from the approach: On the East face of Mescalito: On the Jubilee Song: July. Finally got to the summit of J-burg. NE Butt on Goode: August. Ice Cliff Arete on Stuie: Southern Pickets - Inspiration group: September - Smiffistani and NW Face on Liberty Bell. October. My first trip to the City of Rocks, ID and a very hard fall which took me a while to recover from. Wolf Rock (Oregon): November - I have officially become a yankee:

Leesa and myself climbed north-facing Starvin' Marvin at the Starvation ridge area today. Despite the rising temps, it was still in fat conditions but with the scary topout, in a solid WI4 shape. The crux of the day was the approach death gully which nearly killed us.

What's your take on the Laser Speed screws? Any good on steep ice?

What he said. Also, not all 30L packs are made equal - some are more (or less) 30 than others. Cilo packs normally run large, which I really like. Detachable lids help expand the volume and thanks to the customized options, you can strap a lot of stuff on the sides which is handy on the approaches. 30 L W/NWD was my choice for the Pickets trip last summer. Plus it is waterproof like others mentioned - which you want for the range where it rains all the time. The newer W/NWD Cilo packs already come pre-sealed, so no need to do it yourself.

Ah yes, I heard about using the handwarmers and specifically attaching them to the platy-tube connector. Curious what will be the freezing range then?

Duct tape-baby. I consider myself retarded when it comes to fixing things but was surprised the duct tape actually worked like a charm when marmot chewed a 1/2 inch hole in my partner's 2L platypus. The important thing was to drain all remaining water, thoroughly dry off the affected area before patching it. Not sure if duct tape works with camelbacks or MSRs. On a related note, has anyone figured out a way to insulate hydration tubes on winter routes? The "insulation sleeves" seemed to be a bogus, someone suggested to stick the hydration port under your jacket but that never really worked for me...

Anyone been to Strobach?

Cloud Cap road #3512 is now closed again due to ice and snow on the road as of Oct 28th: http://www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/mthood/alerts-notices/?aid=25768

SOLD.