YocumRidge

Is it when you lived in the U-haul for a week?

Thanks, Ben. Yep, the icefall was unusually bad, especially for winter. JR is highly doubtful he will ever be back on Hood . How was Reid otherwise? Any pics of Yocum? I hear it is a good route .

I second what SS said. You have probably also read this: "Despite the beautiful line, the rock on the lower Cleaver is dangerous. One climber described it as a slimy sludge. Another climber said the rock [on the Cleaver] looked like it was squeezed out of a giant toothpaste tube". You might get lucky as it is now frozen and try to swing your tools into that compound . Re: approaching the headwall. Traversing above the shrund is an easier option later in the season, although right now the shrund seems to be easily crossable if you gain the headwall from the lower Eliot between Snow Dome and the Cleaver as a couple of friends just did 2 weeks ago. Eliot Headwall as of 01/20/2013: From my personal communication with Jeff Thomas: first ascentionists in May 1958 approached the headwall via the summit, Cathedral Ridge and traversing above the shrund.

Thanks, Tim! It is what happens when Lillooet was a suspect .

Solo? Arggh, I could not get off work on Fri anyway...

Trip: HOOD - North Face right gully - car to bar Date: 2/2/2013 Trip Report: I love North Face on Hoodie. A legit winter route and my favorite at that when hit in right conditions. For the last few weeks I was crippled by a weird lung infection and as such was not able to get out climbing much. The last weekend the stars finally aligned with the high pressure conveniently settled in for at least 24 hr and although still coughing as a bad TB patient, I was feeling better. My friend JR arrived from Seattle on Fri night after work and we headed to the Tilly Jane TH where we unsuccessfully tried to get some zzz. Not much luck there, we started up the trail at 3800' after midnight, looking forward to the usual 5000’ approach. 12.30 a.m. alpine start: JR at the TJ A-frame: After the crampons were on at 6700’ at the always windy Cooper Spur, we dropped down on to the lower Eliot at the usual spot and hiked up to the shrund by the North face on nice alpine ice with some styrofoam thrown in. North side of Hood in winter usually creates its own microclimate with the temps running 10-15F lower than on the south side at the same elevation. No exception was this time: morning inversion SE winds and single digits at 8800’. Originally from AK, the JR’s most substantial layer turned out to be a Patagonia Nano Puff Fish Fur 1. “It is the one and only I have on today” – hmmm, way light and fast for my taste, but I guess it is how they are bred up there in AK . Still in the dark, we spotted an ice block, dug in and I pulled a Fission SL out of my pack to make JR’s existence less miserable and hoping that may be he would get some sleep: Waiting for the sun to rise: Cooper Spur at sunrise: Eliot at sunrise: We climbed the right gully in two blocks: I took the bottom part including the shrund, part of the North Cleaver, swinging traverse and through the first ice step; while JR got the second rock band/ice step and the summit pinnacle. Approaching the shrund with the left and right ice steps above me: The closer we got, the more life-threatening objects was hammering us from above as expected. For as long as it would not annihilate us. To make things better, the snow bridge that I successfully used 2 weeks ago - http://nobolts.blogspot.com/2013/01/mt-hood-north-face-right-gully-attempt.html - was no longer there. A constant reminder that this mountain is ever metamorphosing living being. Feeling desperate, I downclimbed inside the shrund and traversed over trying to find something better than the overhanging paper thin snow failing at my weighted tools. With not many available options, I went all way to the North Cleaver and pulled through the half a pitch of rock and ice up there before dropping back down for the swinging traverse to the first ice step. Disappearing in the shrund: Traversing over the shrund: The Cleaver bypass of the shrund: On the swinging traverse to the base of the first ice step: Starting up the first ice step: It is exactly when the real shit show had begun: the whole mountain was falling apart and the gully turned into one giant garbage chute. According to JR, the first ice step I “led” aka free soloed was all rotten ice for more than a rope length. I have no memories on this one - I climbed it blind. My crampons blew twice and I was nearly loosing it – not recommended. Emotionally traumatized and physically tortured, I was really hoping our life will improve as we gain elevation and may be just may be we will go home in the end . Thank gawd JR came up alive and took the next simul block. Our lives and upward progress did improve as we reached the second rock band/ice step. Finally we were moving and making up for all the time lost down below. JR en route to the second ice step: JR on the second ice step: We barely could believe the hero plastic ice was awaiting above. Yep, it was that good. A thought crossed our minds to hang a TR and start running laps: The obligatory shot of Cathedral Spire: The summit pinnacle: The summit cornice (better than expected): Topping out: JR on the lonely summit at 3 p.m. His first time on Hood: March Madness and I-rock. "The best mixed climbing on the West coast. Period." - Wayne Wallace Alpenglow descent to the T-lodge: The slog down was via the Old Chute where we bumped into a very nice rappelling party of 4 from Bozeman who gave us a ride back to our rig after we crawled out of a bar at the T-lodge next morning . Gear Notes: 60 m rope, 5 screws, 2 pickets, 4 Cobras Approach Notes: Tilly Jane TH

Yesterday we climbed McCrea Creek falls in the Entiat valley as a group of 4, including one 12 y.o. After obtaining the permission to park in the private driveway (near MP 22) and hike across their property, the approach was chill 10 min. McCrea from the base: One full 60 m pitch: Our 12 y.o. ripping it with Nomics Pouring shower midway: Anita on the topout: Rapped off the bush with pre-existing sling: What do ardenvoirs eat?

Nice work, Steopich. Like Crack mentioned, the conditions on Denman were definitely "varied" aka free soloing Gotta love WA ice.

Had a phone conversation with Bill a couple days ago that the publisher is getting very close to the finish line. To all the contributing authors who did not yet: PLEASE, send a photo of yourself showing your face and 2-3 sentences of bio to Bill Mullee by email at your earliest convenience. THANKS!

New without tags (received as a gift, but not needed) Patagonia Women's Troposphere jacket, s. Medium, color - Maraschino. This stretchy waterproof, windproof and breathable active shell for alpine climbing and skiing is similar to Westcomb Neoshell jackets: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-troposphere-jacket?p=84545-0-961 Patagonia MSRP $299 Asking $200 (including shipping)

Selling brand new in box men's Acopa Aztecs rock shoes, size 7.5 Currently discontinued. - All Around Lace Up Shoe - Stiff Polymer Mid Sole - EVA cushioned Heel - Comfortable Padded Leather Tongue - Unlined Leather Uppers - 4.2mm Acopa RS Rubber - Contoured Rand - 1.1 lbs. per pair Acopa's retail $124, asking $100 obo

Oh, we came prepared and pitched in the tent on screws.

Totally forgot about this one. My first alpine fall, kind of embarrassing. I was naively hoping that the overhanging slush would withstand my efforts of pounding a Spectre in the small ice patch I found in that shrund but in vain My 2012 highlight was a 2000' "descent" of the Willis Wall , surviving its famous rock fall, plunging into its shrund and busting my ankle. Highly not recommended. Getting stuck between ice walls in the middle of the Coe's Gl. Icefall in October, 1 bivy on the ice ledge and 20 V-threaded raps. Beautiful route, but so terminally freaky, like Baltoro on K2: On the "approach": Bivvy on Coe: [video:vimeo]50950067

Cool, guys! Surprise, surprise... They always do when they smell your presence at a distance I am still perplexed how on earth was possible to get dragged by the cops TWICE within 60 min on that infamous drive to Hood with you.

Gorge and ice, hmmm... But I'll get hold of ya.

Yeah, but by now you could have set up a fixed line to make life easier for us and avoid this :

1. HOOD - Eliot Headwall/Cathedral Spire - "Ravine" - with Vitaliy 2. HOOD - Eliot Headwall - Olsen/Wallace line - with Andy and Oleg 3. SHUKSAN - Hanging Glacier - with Anita and Oleg 4. FORBIDDEN - East Ridge/West Ridge traverse - with Oleg 5. Led the Louise Falls pillar, Canadian Rockies, AB - with Dane and Rafal

Apparently, Hyalite TRs are not welcome on CC any longer, as those must be getting too much to read. So, below is another “update” on the ice conditions we had over the last few days while in Hyalite. Taking a short break from Yosemite climbing, my dear friend Vitaliy took a flight from the Bay area to PDX to hit proper ice with me in Hyalite for a few days. We drove from PDX through the night straight to the canyon and warmed up on the closest to the parking lot G2 and Hangover. G2: Vitaliy on the left side of G2: Anita on the right side of G2: Myself on the Hangover: Next day we climbed the Dribbles and the Thin Chance in Amphitheater. Dribbles from the approach: Myself getting to the headwall: Vita leading the Headwall pitch, left side, felt harder than Scepter that we climbed a couple days later: Myself on the last pitch: On the way out, Vitaliy got on the Thin Chance: Cool stemming off the tree: As it occurred to us that we might have a fetish for adrenaline, Vita and I decided to get on another Hyalite classic, the Cleopatra’s Needle. What an amazing line, and no human being had been on it for the last two weeks, as we were breaking out the chest deep trail to the base and knocking off tones of shedding untouched ice. Vitaliy at the base of the Cleo’s: Alpine-like “approach” pitch: It got very cozy behind those curtains on the traverse to the base of the pillar: The pillar is looming above and barely touching down: The ice on the pillar was very “interesting” and confidence boosting: Yep, that’s right. It’s me, just like after a bar fight: Vitaliy threading the Needle: Vita on the top of the pillar: Vitaliy starting out the last winding section of the least resistance to the tree: Just below the tree: The Responsible Family Man seen from the top of the Cleo’s: Next day was supposed to be a rest day so we climbed in the Mummy Cooler. I led the MC2 while Vita led the Scepter which was a solid WI5 with the run out suspect pro. The Scepter and the MC2 seen from the Unnamed wall: Myself starting up on the MC2: On the MC2 topout: The Scepter: Vitaliy on the low part of Scepter: Vitaliy higher up: Before our drive home next morning, we finished on another Hyalite’s classic, the The Thrill is Gone. The thrill was not entirely gone. At least for Vitaliy who enjoys bare rock just as well. Vitaliy on The Thrill is Gone:

As I recall, you swapped the Lynx heel pieces for the BD ones and that seriously improved the fit. The Petzl rear bails are too wide for the small sized boots, period. Which makes a big difference on steep brittle ice for me: I had a couple of close calls in the past with the feet blowing off while trying to hold on to my dear life. So here we go again. For the upcoming ice trip, I am planning on using the mens Phantom Guides (s. 38) and Dartwins fitted with the BD heel pieces.

The SS Sabretooth generally suck for fitting on the small sized boots. IMO, the SS sabertooth Pro and the LS Evo Trango Light Extreme GTX (size 39) is the worst combination possible: the SS sabres felt like having flip flops on. The ridiculously worthless toe anchoring band does nothing but adds fat and weight rather than securing the fit. Do yourself a favor and replace the original sabres' bails with the Petzl bails - those the Darts, Dartwins or Lynx come with. Petzl warranty department rocks and although they do not sell the bails as a spare part, they always have a few on hand and might send it to you for free if you ask nicely. My SS sabres modified with the Petzl front bails:

Thanks Chad. Yes, I need Acopas men s. 8 - they run small.

I thought the crux was not to ditch you old truck off the cliff at Cascade Pass

Are you in the mood for the repeat ? It is that time of the year again.

Hey Chad! Yep, it's me. And that was you who got me hooked on Acopas a while back so now I cannot wear anything else since . Unfortunately, I had missed that sweet Ebay deal on the Spectres, but instead I found a not so sweet deal on Amazon that has a variety of Acopa shoes in multiple sizes, so you might want to check it out. I got the Aztecs (that climb very similar to Spectres IMO) as an all around shoe in Mens s. 8 and the Chameleons (mens 8) for bouldering. Very happy as nothing else seem to fit my oddly shaped feet and I need my shoes wide and stiff BTW, I will be selling my Boreal Aces (UK mens 6.5) that fits US womens 7.0, 1 Ramuda resole with the C4, so if Amy is interested, please let me know.