YocumRidge

Where did you dig the pit: by the I-rock or on Reid? Wise decision on the bailout though.

For cutting rutschblocks. I have BD flicklock poles. Should I be able to get away with just a static cord setup? Does anyone have experience with it in the dense layers? Or should I get the saw? How long is the BD saw blade? I cannot find this info anywhere.

Dirty electronic fusion (DEFUSION) from Vienna by Karl Moestl [video:youtube]U9OR7ostaFI

What would be your choice for the snow saw as defined by: 1. Lightweight 2. Ease of ski pole attachment 3. Less bulk Thanks

Yep, just like on Eiger in the recent "North Face" movie. The train to the summit is missing though.

I am planning on attempting Rainier via Nisqually Ice Cleaver and camping at the base of Cowlitz Cleaver in March. In case we bail, what would be your recommendations for ice cragging areas/seracs nearby? Thanks guys.

Bill, when is the publishing party?

Right on, Bill. Totally agree to avoid SS at all cost. I think this pic has more light on the upper CS and shows the couloir Bill is referring to more clearly. Also, Sunshine is another nice alternative on the N side of Hood. Not so technically demanding, just long, especially when the gate is closed. Last Sun/Mon was the perfect timing to hit it though and while we were so tempted to bivy on the Snow Dome, Oleg had to be back to work on Monday.

Thanks, guys. It is a great variation, especially when done in winter. The conditions were superb: low temps - no rock & ice fall, steeper slopes - less avy danger. I wish my folks would share the delight but unfortunately they don't

Nice vid, thanks for posting! Didn't it feel weird to climb alone - on HOOD? And break your own trail?

Thanks. Might as well do that. They dont leak water yet and yes, the supergaiters help extend their life.

Yes, the hockey tape worked great for me: either Friction blade tape (double-sided, Gordie Howe?) or Joyco Co-adhesive grip tape.

I hear you but it looks like that:

Still, a nice attempt. Thanks for reporting the conditions.

I now get it - Oleg - why you climbed so well and in a new style: "tool-less"!

Trip: Mt. Hood - Eliot ice cragging + Ski + Rehab Date: 2/7/2010 Trip Report: My long-time friend (OlegV on here) has decided that the time finally came for him to try out his leg in front pointing on vertical ice. After all, the leg was a reconstruction masterpiece with all possible types of metal hardware put in it after he suffered major open fractures and all the works in a car-bike accident. The plan was born to head up to the Eliot glacier seracs for some ice “cragging”. After having climbed the North Face of Hood through and through, Oleg was confident that getting to the upper Eliot from the closed gate at the Cloud Cap road is going to take a couple of hours. This is where he proved himself wrong. My slow ass does not run ultra marathons with 50 lb “training” packs and skis on the regular basis the way he does. But to make him feel better I did carry one like that while skinning up the approach. On the approach to the Tilly Jane: By 9 a.m. we reached the cabin where we had breakfast Tilly Jane cabin in winter: and then continued up to the Cooper Spur where I stashed my skis and we dropped down to the Eliot. Knee-deep postholing was in order. North Face, Cooper Spur, Eliot and Oleg: Upper Eliot seracs: Ice on the CSs drop offs was not in but the serac field on the upper Eliot looked temptingly blue and this is where we headed to. The optical illusion of them being 30 min away ended in us approaching the base of the perfect avy-prone slope and then realizing that we are looking at another 800 vertical feet before we can even get to the first set of seracs. And sure enough, the avy-prone slope did have a recent avy debris trail right in the middle of it. Being reluctant to dig the pit, we geared up for the crevasse rescue and traversed eastwards across the Eliot to the lower seracs. We rapped off the two screws down to the serac field that took some time to explore. The exploring however involved crossing snow bridges over the crevasses but luckily they were more solid than not. Rapping down to the lower Eliot: Lower Eliot Seracs: The ice was dry and brittle like one I found in Hyalite canyon at -14F and needed a few whacks to get good sticks. Oh well, but it was better than nothing. We climbed a few lines of different angles and some overhanging blocks. Then I went up to clean the screws and downclimbed the other side of the serac where I fell into the crevasse. In the meantime, Oleg found a sweet terrain park of ice features that we surely had to get on. Ice features: The sun was going down way too soon, so we bailed, headed up to the CS and skied down or not the approach back to the parking lot in the dark. Overall, it was a good day to celebrate Oleg’s recovery. NB: O/N bivy on the Eliot is recommended to enjoy an entire day of “cragging” rather than suffering a total 15 miles approach c-to-c. Gear Notes: 15 screws (used 4), screamers, CR gear (used), 3 pickets (not used) Approach Notes: Long

Nice. Thanks.

I own a pair of the 2004 Salomon's SM Lite boots which I adore. Salomon as a ski company makes very comfortable footwear (at least for me) but unfortunately this particular model has been discontinued. Does anyone know of a repair shop that can re-bond the deteriorating rands and peeling leather?

As of 02/07/10, we found the avy debris trail right in the middle of the Upper Eliot that is heavily crevassed as well around the seracs. Snow Dome and Cooper Spur looked good with great fresh powder skiing! Watch out for crevasses above the Snow Dome if you are heading up that way.

It makes me happy. It's that simple.

Cool, thanks. I would love to try out my Garmont Veloce then.

Thanks for fixing it, Josh ! Much appreciated.

M: get ready for the Elliot!

What is missing Ivan - is the tourists, dogs and mega-roped teams. Go get it.

Yes, and the other two brought snowshoes (they sucked too but better than nothing) and the one who did not bailed at the I-rock. Both skis and snowshoes were stashed at the Crater rock before crossing above the DK. Now in retrospect, I wish I brought my teles but I never tried ice climbing in tele boots before. Anyone would enlighten me please?