Jump to content

t_rutl

Members
  • Posts

    650
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by t_rutl

  1. Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated. I'll stick to the original plan with Master Cams. Bill - Looking forward to that review.
  2. Specs: http://www.trango.com/pdfs/CamSpecs.pdf They are the .5-4 Flex Cams
  3. http://www.trango.com/prod.php?id=101 Anybody use these? The cam lobes rotating in the same plane looks interesting. Looking to rack up some smaller SLCD's. Was going to go with Metolious Mastercams but a friend told me to take a looks these. I've yet to find somebody local so I can get a feel for them. I am told they have more flexible stems than the Mastercams and the trigger pull is smoother. Pros: Very narrow head. Strong for their size (8-9kN). *SUPPOSEDLY* can take resonable force with just a pair of the lobes engaged (aid climbing plus?) Cons: Anything you've experienced, heard or gather from the design/image? Troy
  4. sub-4oz harness is ridiculous. damn decent for glacier slogs. the standard Loopo looks quite slick at sub-7oz too.
  5. looks good now jon
  6. IE8 error currently in effect
  7. stellar photography as always Steph!
  8. http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3665084 is what Petzl uses on their Nomic. from what i remember its just a 3M brand tape they peddle which you can get at Home Depot/Lowes. Dane can give a for sure on this.
  9. I wear L/XL and with my BD Punisher as well as lighter softshell gloves the middle setting fits smooth. If you wear M in most gloves, even the smallest setting should feel ok.
  10. Boots? Fit fit and fit...and your personal level of comfort. People have gone up in the red Trangos but most will be happier with a little more boot. But once again fit. Especially on the long slogs. Something in the Nepal or Trango Extreme's from Sportiva. Freeney, Triolet or Mont Blanc from Scarpa. Apex XT from Kayland. Best advice would be to try on a bunch and see what fits best. Any of the guides Gyro listed will do you right. Good luck!
  11. Vernonika (spionin) climbs some hard ice (5's) with them...she has a Quark pinky rest...for the price you can really beat the deal
  12. sweet production as always Wayne
  13. atta girl V! been wondering how the trip was goin!
  14. The 3 line on G1 was beat to snot and not worth climbing yesterday. Fat Chance and Thin Chance on the corner were hooky and fun...lower Green Sleeves was fat and untouched. G2 and Hangover were looking mighty fine. Cave and Gully has a horizontal fracture on the top curtain and seemed steep. Matrix was touching and after the short bulgy start could go as a 3. Feeding the Cat was sticky. Like Kev said...snag the guide and go crazy!
  15. Joe - We'll be in Bozeman again tomorrow through Monday if you can swing anything earlier. Troy
  16. t_rutl

    Leash length

    i'm 6'4" and use a 60cm and a treking pole...if you're just talking glacier travel...BD slider leash which attaches to you wrist...long enough to switch hands while frenching...not too long to trip over...and its adjustable
  17. maybe the Coleman seracs on Baker if you can access them
  18. they look like mine...maybe even in better shape ask BD about their "curb test"...they have intern beat the shaft 100 or so times against a curb then flip it and smash the other...it is then brough in and still passes the strength tests for certification you're good but if you're still concerned you can send it to BD and they eval it for free
  19. nice job Josh. great pics.
  20. Depends on what kind of alpine rock you'll be doing. If your normal 60m pitch gig than stay with a single rated rope...one that can handle the abrasion and possible falls on rock. Dan gave you a rec on Mammut's 8.9 available which is light and a quality rope. Something in the mid-9's seems to be standard. Anything Mammut, Beal, Edelweiss or Petzl will do you right. Just make sure it has a good dry cover on both the sheath and core. Now if your alpine rock will mostly encompass ridge traverses, exposed scrambling and the occasional short (10-20 meter) technical pitch than you could go with an 8mm double (just one). Think Mammut Phoenix/Petzl Dragonfly. Super light, which you'll love on those glacier slogs and is more than adequate for glacier travel. When you hit the rock, double it over and use it in a 30m double rope fashion. Just fine for something like Forbidden's West Ridge and the likes. Simu-climb then pitch out the short technical steps.
  21. nice wayne...sweet little cred ya got too! cool to see steph as well
  22. congrats J!
  23. I find that even with the silver Trango Extremes vs. Nepal EVO's in the larger sizes. That sole flex translated to noticeable instability on vert ice for me. Thanks for giving that insight on the Cholatse. It may fit like a glove or suck worse than this weeks weather. Let us know what you find Bill.
  24. Jens is a stud plain and simple. To me, his opinion is worth some serious consideration most likely quite spot on. Asolos are all over the place that I have notices (although I have not tried the Cholatse). Their Powermatic backpacking boot fits narrow and like a dream (for me). Their Makalu fit wide and sloppy for my foot. Here's another corroboration of Jens' take (last post from another reliable source): Kayland M11 vs. Asolo Cholatse I say find them and give them a whirl! I'm tempted too... Troy
  25. you better have video too there V!
×
×
  • Create New...