t_rutl

fyi...Forbidden's West Rigde couloir is shot...attain the ridge by climbing the loose gully to the climber's left (off camera)...we did a traverse climbing the East Ridge decending the West Ridge...did not climb the gulley but that was the approach of choice by all on route...however it was not pleasantly spoken of...on the descent rap down the rib between the first two gulleys to the descender's right of the couloir (which we did)...5 perfectly spaced single rope stations gets you to the snow in no time

wtf? haha...oh god it's like a train wreck...i cant help but watch...

i've never been on the north side this late but have seen TR's from late Aug on the North Ridge so I'm sure it'd doable like Sky said. and YES! bike are a necessity if taking the Heliotrope approach...i cant comment on the other approaches that have been suggested but i know Sky is a top notch climber so his way is prob better but you would have to ask him for beta on that...but bikes are the ONLY way to go for Glacier Creek Road from what i gathered the ice just shifts and shapes from season to season...we had a short vert step to gain the 60-70 degree crest...there was a longer step of 80ish degree to the climbers right but we chose the shorter steaper section

Tom hit it. longer primary axe since the majority of travel on those routes will be a glacier travel...a longer technical moutaineering axe (grivel air tech evo, BD venom, ect.)...pair it wich a second tech tool (grivel matrix light, another BD venom, cobra, petzl aztarex or anything you want)

yes...new zealand...mt. cook, tasman, aspiring...rock climbing galore...surfing and scuba too

amen

dang gina...

if you end up in the Boston Basin area...adding on Sharkfin Tower would be a hoot.

you're a freak of nature Leor...well done man question...what shoes were you sporting this go'round?

seriously? a local gear shop had a deal posted promoting the new SS saying "up to 8oz lighter per pair"...liars!!

right place at the right time...dont get much better

and yes...they are on sale because they are the chromoly...i think i read you can shave up to 8oz per pair with the new stainless models

sabretooths would get you up baker's north ridge or similar routes fine...just came of the north ridge in G12's which dont have a whole bundle of difference and they performed top notch...prob with the cyborgs for such routes: heavier, dont "hike" as well and the vert points can shear in the softer stuff...excellent water ice and mixed 'pons however...think Ouray you could use them for alpine/glacier routes...they would climb that pitch or two of steep ice like nobodys biz but be less effecient for the other 98% of the route what current crampons do you have?

kick ass man

brutal... sweet pics man!

heading out Sat morn so let's hope so...heard the moat/schrund can be a biatch

if you're obsessed with WA's Top 100 then it's gotta be...but yeah, worth mounting up on at least once

hellz yeah

you could try contacting WadeTheBuilder http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/893156/Guides_are_booked_other_option#Post893156 sorry to hear about your buddy

how's the quality on their packs?

if you get to the ranger station early enough (around opening which is at 7 on the weekends) you should have NO prob getting a permit. if you camp at sahale arm you can do sahale, boston and the sw slope of buckner camp at eldorado or klawatti col and you can do eldo's east ridge, one of the ridge scrambles on klawatti and austera if you bail on that area there's always baker, shuksan or the twins

"Average minimum weight specification is based on tent, rainfly and poles only" !!

nada...haven't been able to mount up on Klawatti yet but would love too...thinking a ski trip up there this coming winter/spring...last year was really late season and this year it was an afterthought...didnt have the time to take one of the longer ridge routes up plus no helmets...rock fall was evident and would rather not have my skull split!

i like my exposure 50 as well. the only gripe is that the frame comes up off the shoulders a bit making a pain with a helmet. they replaced it with their Varient Series but i much prefer the exposures! Jim - I dig the BD Quantums but the M/L frame is still too short for me or I would be rocking one. Even though it is discontinued if you can find an Exposure 66 i think it'd be worth looking at. they haul a load like nobody's biz, technically inclined and are quite light, inexpensive packs.

Baker is an option any time of the year. The later it gets the trickier it gets. With how warm our summer has been and the lower than average snow pack the glaciers are likely to be very broken up with quite a bit of glacial ice exposed. Exposed route finding and hard ice would make for an exciting time out. Should we get an "Indian Summer" overall condtions shouuld be fantastic as far as weather goes. That and the road up to Coleman/Demming should be open if you want to access the North Side. Other options: Shuksan, Eldorado, Adams, Sahale/Boston, Dragontail/Colchuck (have to get in the lottery for permits). If you're into technical rock those abound even more.