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t_rutl

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Everything posted by t_rutl

  1. BD Momentum AL (or Primrose for the ladies) is a great choice for a new harness IMO...light, comfy, adjustable, rear haul loop, thick belay loop and only like $55 i have a couple for loaners when new people hit the crag...i use one for most alpine stuff not all harnesses are "auto doubled back" although there are starting to be more and more companies are starting to go to a new method of load bearing...rather than padding an almost linked webbing contracts to distribute the pressure (look at Arc'teryx's Warp Technology)...makes for a nice gig when hanging or taking a whipper but expensive (think ~$130)...i use my Arc'teryx R320 for sport and long, hot trad days
  2. my reverso bites just fine on a 8mm...6mm prussiks bite fine too as long as they are a more limber cord
  3. great TR and that is an awesome variantion well done
  4. http://www.komonews.com/news/local/49630757.html MOUNT RAINIER -- A climbing ranger was injured while skiing down from Mt. Rainier's summit Wednesday afternoon. Two rangers had reached the summit earlier in the day and were skiing back down to Camp Sherman when one punched through a hole in the snow and fell 40 feet into a crevasse, said Rainier Park spokesman Lee Taylor. The ranger's partner was able pull him out of the crevasse with the help of two other guides on the same route. Taylor says it appears the ranger suffered a leg injury. A rescue helicopter from Ranger Creek was heading up to the site to airlift the climber off the mountain and take him to Harborview Medical Center in Seattle.
  5. that's my first choice and looks like a fantastic trek but this is my buddy's first trip out after a 6 week layoff...i think a repeat will be in order later in the season that's the info i'm looking for...QS looks like more of a "challenge" but the Arm looks more condusive for what's needed thanks all!! peace, -T
  6. Looking to take a quick jaunt up Sahale Saturday. The roomie needs a moderate trek to get back in the swing of things after recovering from an ankle injury. Haven't taken the time to mount up on Sahale yet and she looks like a good option. How's the Sahale vs. Quien Sabe Glacier approach and route compare? I've got that both are realativily straight forward but any preference or is it 6 one way, half dozen the other? -T
  7. sweet shot of the Shuk!
  8. you'd be happier with something stiffer soled...if its mild enough out backing boots suffice just fine...gaiters would make life a little nicer...crampons should you need'm and axe for self arrest/brake on the glissade...or a trekking pole
  9. 22 y/o guy on the main wall had a hand hold break loose...rock was big enough it busted his leg as it bounced and hit...missed his belayer...lowered him down and called 911...Anacortes Fire stabilized and walked him down where Skagit Couty Sheriff could pull him out on a litter...that is the summmary directly from Anacortes Fire i find that odd but anything can happen when hit just right...
  10. t_rutl

    Goodbye

    yeah my add didnt make to that one...my bad
  11. t_rutl

    Goodbye

    did you see the world of warcraft freakout by the kid? that was some crazy shit...
  12. eVent. Big raves on the new waterproof membrane from several sources. Tried a jacket and was impressed at the breathability although I have not had it out in any extreme conditions to comment on its weatherproofness. Was in the market for a new pair of boots; a 3 season technical boot. Local gear shops have raved about the new Kayland boots utilizing eVent so gave the Apex XT a go. Full shank, light and fit my foot. After having it out on a few occasions I'm not impressed. I can tell they breathe better as the feet don't feel as stifling hot on the approach. But even on a one or two day slog through snow I end up with damp socks and, at times, serious moisture under the insoles. Anybody else had positive or negative experiences with eVent lined footwear? -T
  13. weather clearing across Whitehorse descending the East Ridge of Eldorado
  14. wow did that thing melt out quick... well done
  15. yeah...something back in 1776 was along those lines too...
  16. gotcha...the original link ran to the Index article which was news to me but props to Hanman and his crew tho!
  17. hmmm...i love my Dragonfly's?? but they see ice or glacier travel
  18. lol...yeah that tends to happen with addictions... you'll like the rope...did you get the one with the dry cover?
  19. wonder when they'll put the fundraising together... be a huge if this gets pulled off
  20. i'd save the dough and grab the Beal...especially if it's prime function is top-rope duty and you're looking to build a rack...i have the 70m version and it's a good rope...not as limber as my Mammuts or Petzls but those were pushing double the cost...that and 65g/m beats 70g/m for alpine use...just make sure its got the dry cover
  21. are you talking Kayak Point? has a large pier there too? i'm from up this way and that's all i can think of...it's a pretty popular park
  22. www.summitpost.org tons of good beta
  23. while mind spinning exposure or a sketchy hold aren't heart warming...its the objective hazards that haunt you... those two are studs and will be missed
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