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Everything posted by justinp
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FOUND Quickdraw on the P1 anchor of Young Warriors
justinp replied to King Beatard's topic in Lost and Found
I fear change -
[TR] Mt. Hood - South Side/Hogsback 9/13/2009
justinp replied to shinsain's topic in Oregon Cascades
Ivan don't encourage them -
[TR] Mt. Hood - South Side/Hogsback 9/13/2009
justinp replied to shinsain's topic in Oregon Cascades
Meh. Find one on that route for me that's recent. When you don't, I won't be mad. here is a TR from a dude from Oklahoma buried in a recent hood conditions thread -
[TR] Mt. Hood - South Side/Hogsback 9/13/2009
justinp replied to shinsain's topic in Oregon Cascades
Shinsain obviously found out the hard way that you don’t climb hood at this time of year. No reason to bag on the guy joe.... -
thanks for pointing out the obvious...
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Now I have only done the route once, but IMHO I though P2 was the crux of the climb... 5.9 seems appropriate for that pitch or at least it would be elsewhere.
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[TR] Observation Rock - North Face 10/18/2008
justinp replied to Braydon's topic in Mount Rainier NP
going to be up that way the 11-13 pm me if you want to get on it.. -
[TR] Dragon Tail Peak - Serpentine Arete 8/22 8/26/2009
justinp replied to denalidave's topic in Alpine Lakes
Mine to! Thanks Dave… -
Morton's Neuroma... huh thought I was just being a puss all these years?
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Where I work we are constantly running into poison oak in the field. I use technu primarily because its free, but it seems to work well after rolling around in the stuff.
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Belay off anchor problems with autolocking device
justinp replied to SplashClimber's topic in Newbies
The only problem I have ever had is when using a small diameter or odd shaped x-section biner (i.e. not round). By using a slightly larger diameter biner I was able to decrease the bend and the rope feed smoothly. -
nice Feck
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Not sure if you care, but I remember reading somewhere that you are supposed to replace PAS's after a fall. Also 1.5 kN = 337 lb force thus your fall likely generated a force higher that 1.5 kN unless it was only an inch or two…
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PDX Wilderness First Aid/WFR Recertification 9/26
justinp replied to darstog's topic in Events Forum
Getting back on topic.... Here is a link to the WMI schedule for WFR and WFA classes. No back off topic don't let one ruin it for the mases -
Again it's all about your comfort level. Assuming the anchor is built right the anchor is redundant. If you don’t trust the rope to clove hitch into the anchor than why are you climbing on it right?
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This is also what I do on lead. After building an anchor I will usually clove hitch into the master point then undo the PAS to unclutter the bolts. When following I am always clove hitched to the anchor. As soon as the lead says off belay I clip into the bolts using my PAS and start tearing down the anchor while the lead sets the next anchor to bring me up. This practice seems to be efficient especially when you are not on a big ledge. As far as one sling in a bolt, it’s up to you and your comfort level. Personally I always use both bolts with my PAS (one locker one non). Note that even though you may be clipped into two bolts with a PAS if a loop fails the PAS is not redundant. In contrast two slings are redundant.
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Regardless of how “risky” you perceive something to be the question that must be answered is, is it worth dying for? If it is something you truly enjoy and are passionate about than it is what it is...
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Bump! I know there are people on this site other than Ivan and JosephH that climb rocks in Western Oregon.
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The few guys I climb with are unavailable so I am looking to partner up Friday. Up for whatever Honeycombs, Callahans, Beacon, Ozone, Broughton’s ect… I sport climb mid tens. Will follow trad or give aiding a try. I have a sport rack and a fair amount of trad gear that I would not mind learning how to place.
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PDX Wilderness First Aid/WFR Recertification 9/26
justinp replied to darstog's topic in Events Forum
Thanks for the heads up. I’ve been looking for a good wilderness first aid course. Anyone take this class before and want to pipe in on how good it was? -
Can’t we all just get along? Second thought never mind this constant unfolding drama is mildly entertaining. Plus it detracts me from my busy government job…
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wow! this is good stuff
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Karl Select PhotoPost then upload pictures. Click browse and find the given picture you want on your hard drive and upload it (you can upload more than one pic at a time). Once uploaded click on the picture to select it and it will be inserted in the post. Hope that helps...