Lucky Larry

Where is Strobach or is this hush hush? Just up in 3 sisters and the snow/snice was excellent before the sun hit. I kind of blew it though cause I only had one tool w/me but it was exciting even if I only did maybe 200ft of 45 degree; but did a lot of lower angle training anyway.

Fees blow; they go against freedom of choice, liberty, pursuit of climbing and are discriminatory. For example: remember when it was poor people that went camping? Boycott these places, dollars speak louder than words, meetings, and bureaucracy. History is in the hands of the powerful. Freedom of choice is to go elsewhere while you still can.

JO has the real shit Dave: alien beings, people living in center earth, Armageddon, the poor Israelites being oppressed,buy gold(he hasn't in the 25 yrs he's been telling me to), Jesus is the only way to heaven; and more. just 4 fun stuff.

a couple of people have told me that dyneema slings will cut themselves when knotted; any truth in that?

would like to add a comment about tradition: a lot of traditions actually suck the big one--to blindly do things because they have always been done a certain way may also be the definition of insanity: doing same thing, expecting different results. Joe: believe it or not we do share a lot in common. Thanks 4 sharing on a lot of stuff I was clueless about. Best wishes, Old clueless Larry

Thanks Dave, I couldn't have said it better.You know what they say, point a finger and there are three pointing back at ya. nineteen eighty-four (is today); eric aurthur blair pen name george orwell

Sure. If the only thing a person is hearing is bitching then they are probably not going to hear anything else someone may be trying to say; like how things might be done better in the future, or something that might be constructive. I do not want any routes or bolts to be chopped, erased, or otherwise: no one learns anything from something like that. I wanted to try and open things up to a dialogue, not a diatribe; my apologies to Joe. If we as individuals cannot admit to our own mistakes, or the possibility that we made one, then we won't see how we can do anything better in the future. If Joe doesn't see his re-bolting, replacing, or whatever the hell you want to call it as an indiscriminate act, so be it--what the F do I care; it's not my problem. If stupid bolts or traffic or cold coffee ruin your day then look at yourself for an answer. We are all entitled to our own f'in opinions and belief systems. In the end who gives a fig? There are much bigger issues in the world today than stupid climbing. I'm sure you can come up with your own examples. IMO climbing is just an ego/vanity trip anyway-ooo, I'm so cool pursuing something that risks my life and helps no one. I'm just pissed my ankle is injured and I can't climb--boo-whoo, poor pitiful me. I am just killing time posting stupid shit that doesn't amount to shit. All this is a joke compared to all the real shit that's happening, isn't it? Best wishes, Old pitiful Larry

Well, if all you hear is bitching, and not opinions...I rest my case.

alright already, thanks 4 all ur bolts and work Joe. I have never placed a bolt and I am just curious why u did not use the safer swiss system of bolt placements, vertically, instead of the more questionable horizontal, side by side, placements? RE: YW 1st pitch bolt placements; if they worry u u can actually use nuts and a cam right next to three of the dam things. RE: the route climbers L of Flying Dutchman-why three bolt stations in 180 ft Joe? If your answer is because they were historical that's hysterical-totally unnecessary bro. If we lead by example then what is it we are teaching? While I'm at it why the bolts at the start of the 3rd pitch of YW? Perfect bomber crack there right in your face with an even more bomber upward directional at your feet. Historically there was never a bolt rap station at the base of the slab on SE corner. Just saying a lot of stuff should have been left alone because 1. it was historical 2. routes should not be changed from the way they were first put up unless your talking about the over bolting on YW or any other over bolted routes 3. a lot of routes were never put up to be rapped off; ground up, commitment and all that 4. how about personal responsibility when climbing and using your own head to figure when something is safe, or not safe, instead of making everything safe-because it isn't-and it sounds like the sport route mentality; which isn't fool proof either: everyone has seen them. I am not saying this to piss you or anyone else off. Tradition does have value and in a lot of cases is better than most of the beliefs we have been consumed by, and are consuming the planet. As far as legacy you were not around when the climbers were going to all the meetings in Vancouver and Olympia and such; so you have that part wrong Joe. The BRSP let the climbers down Joe; they never set up the yearly review meetings that they themselves agreed too, and the climbers never got on their ass about it because they wanted to just get along. I have made a lot of mistakes Joe, it's just that i admit that I have. One person on a quest, for right or wrong, does not make a locals tangible effort- it's takes communication and more than one member to build a locals effort. I am not against re-bolting, just revolting. Best wishes, Old Larry

my only objection to the 3rd bolt is that it was placed so close to a crack; how safe is that?

thank u

Osama Bin Ladin is not a Muslim (one who submits to God) anymore than the Spanish conquistadores were Christens; he is a fanatical megalomaniac-like Hitler. He no more represents Islamic faith than those involved in the inquisition represented the Christen faith. 'Mission accomplished', says Bin. 'I have conquered America by dividing it's people into angry, bitter, auguring mobs of citizens and politicians; they will eat each other alive.'

can't say I've tried everything and no one has ever been able to point at anything specifically after all the tests have been done but I have just had to listen to my trick back more and lower my expectations or suffer being laid up for weeks at a time in bed. I now cross train; never really use to : bicycle, hike, stretching (way less intensely than I use to; it was causing problems too), backpack (too boring?) and walking and smelling the coffee. I know this sounds like a real drag; it is at any age when your hooked on the high of rock climbing. I was/still am to the point of ignoring the inner voice of reason and throwing my back out dozens of times in the past. A lot of people pop a lot of pills just to keep going. Some go to surgery. I get depressed thinking of all the climbing I can no longer do. But wtf, there really is more to life than just climbing-I tell myself-especially when I am able to walk again after weeks in bed. Personally climbing is a neuroses in me and I have to watch myself or suffer the consequences-bed rest. Many would argue that it's a selfish sport that does nothing for anyone-exactly why I liked it: no cash, publicity, fans-completely meaningless in the moment shit. Pure selfish ego and no reward; just a drive to repeat the experience over and over.TMI? best wishes with your decision.

nut sure homes

nice, and thanks 4 the biner capture rope clip jug reminder; although John long has never had a jug pop off the rope it doesn't mean it can't/won't/shouldn't/couldn't/wouldn't happen

That's good advice. You probably got no response about adding guy points on the walls because it is a bad idea. The (formerly) Malibu Epic 1.6 oz fabric that BD used on that tent and its replacement is not strong enough to handle the stresses that a mid-panel anchor point would create. That is why the only guy line attachments on the BD tents are at the seams, and close to the ground to boot. Take a look at the Bibler tents and you'll see that the mid-panel anchor points are reinforced. Trying to turn an ultralight BD tent into a 4-season Denali tent is like trying to drive a sports car across the Sahara Desert. In both cases you'll end up with a lot more holes in it than when you started. duly noted

I was looking at some g12 classics at a shop and noticed that the front toe strap was fastened to the inside of the front toe posts and commented that this did not look correct-this was the only classic they had. It just doesn't seem like the boot should be bearing against the plastic strap instead of the steel post. Yvon Chouinard said a crampon should fit so tightly to the boot that it won't fall off; even before it is strapped on. Ido not understand why boots like the la Sportiva Trango are sold with a heel plate for a pneumatic binding when it is such a soft boot. I thought, perhaps mistakenly, that the recommended boot for all pneumatic binding has tobe a stiff soled boot. Also, I have Camp crampon w/classic binding and it seems to shift/slip some on the boot. It just seems like in the race to make crampons lighter, by eliminating some of the posts (they use to have 8 in the old days), they shift/slip more on the sole of the boot. The pneumatics dig into my heels. Feedback appreciated.

BD got back to me and said to place it endo to the wind and stake guy lines at corners at 45 degrees. I did not get a response to my asking about customizing it with additional guy points on sidewalls.

That sucks really bad.

or anywher e4 that matter:almost slipped on the dry needles/leaves(very slippery indeed Watson) at beacon once upon a time

I've always thought "elitist" was a better description... spray is for spraying, stick to the facts madam.

I was up on copper spur on 7-14 and turned around at 9500ft because I was tired and not inspired by the bottomless cream corn under a shallow, approx 4" crust, of breakable sugar and ice filo dough. Met this guy at 8400ft at 230am on his way up while I was heading down. He was going over the top and down to timberline lodge to pick up his bicycle and ride back to the north side to get his car: he said he was 59 y/o and does not do social climbing internet; but was very friendly. He said He had had trouble finding partners in the past and mostly solos. I far as I could tell by his headlight he had moved lightening fast up to where i met him. I checked on his progress as I headed back to camp at 5800 ft. The conditions may have slowed his progress because at 430 am it seemed like he still had 1000ft, or more, to go to the summit. I moved my camp to the base of the snow dome and headed up at 230 am the next day only to get shut down by fatigue and even worse surface conditions at about 9200ft- I just didn't have what it takes to go on: energy, confidence. I am no expert but the surface conditions and what was underneath it did not seem good for someone of my level, or lack of, recent experience.

I agree it has its' place but it's not 'blowin in the wind'

That face looks familiar:slow larry

heyzues, I am just now figuring out how to navigate this ship Jim--beam me up. 4 soome unexplained reason I thought i would get an e-mail if anyone made a comment about a post that I have made.Q: do I always have to look back at all posts I've made to see if there has been a response? By bthe way ; did u ever get a knew rope? I mean--new, new or just knew to u?