Lucky Larry

good suggestion cause I really do not want to spend more$

yep' not to mention I had a flat when i got back to the car, but a good spare;which may not have been a good thing cause I almost drove off the road while dozing.

Rather than be blatantly dishonest and take advantage of a store's generous return policy, we could be ethical about it and pay Cascade Designs $10-15 dollars to repair the problem. If it's irreparable, they often will give you a new pad for free... a much better way to interact with a company's warranty/return system than scamming REI. As climbers, we can perpetuate each other's dirtbag ways, or perhaps we can perpetuate better practices. For the record I was joking. The only time I will push the limits on what is ethical in regards to the REI return policy is when it involves a crappy REI brand piece of equipment. In which case I end up spending more money on a good piece of gear. In no way is REI ethical, I use to work there; however, always strive to be ethical yourself if you can, and meet the challenge--I haven't.

I really like the way it fits me better than any pack I've owned and the way it packs, but all those adjustable straps that become too long when i cinch them down for a smaller load start whipping me in a heavy wind. I'm beginning to think it's not that great if I have to take a whipping from the mountain and the pack too.

had to shorten the front rear anti-bot clips so they wouldn't interfere w/the pin plate which was holding the boot away from contact with the crampon frame. also had to unhitch anti-bot from heal post; again it was holding the boot away from making contact w/the frame. also ran the adjusting bar under the anti-bot on the heal; same issue as above. This crampon fit my la Sportiva tangos really well but not my Sportiva Nepals: the heals are too narrow for the frame. In no way did I modify the frame itself.

not very good in heavy wind.

day#2 well, I'm home after getting blown out of my site at 2am this morning at 7800ft. I was in a BD firstlight tent, single wall job, w/2 poles. Let's just say that I felt like I was wrestling w Benp inside a balloon that was collapsing, and u already know who was wining. Needless to say, the tent brakes down fast in the wind-which is great; putting it up in it is another story: not good in wind blast. As I'm wrestling with it I'm trying to get things in order to make the great escape, and still can't find my f'in headlamp. Note to self: always have things in order on the boat. As I descend, with crampons and poles, i take my time so as not to be blown down/trip the kind'a soft snow slope when I hear and see something go skidding buy--it's my tent pole. Now I'm traversing to the opposite shore, and remind myself not to to drop too much while I'm traversing. A few minutes later and boom--it's there right in front of me--duh. The wind is still blowing when I reach Jeff park, I haven't slept much the past two nights so I call it a day and head for the TH. Day #1 made it to the campsite w a little wind that night; not bad. On the way up: tell 2 guys at TH they won't need snow shoes and they thank me, pass 2 guys coming down who said they got to the top of Jeff glacier and bailed due to 2ft. powder snow that they said may slide. At 2 am I here a party of 3 tromping by. I keep waking and looking out to see their progress. At 4am I decide to run after them; I mean go up the same way. On the way I have to do a wardrobe change. I pull my boot off to get a pant shell off because I stupidly did not bring the ones I always bring: the zip offs. Now my boot is starting to slide away to the terminus of Jeff glacier--somehow I grab it. I catch up to, I mean run across, the party of 3 coming down from a saddle at 9K ft: it's a guide from timberline and 2 clients and he remarks how beautiful it is-- I agree . He tells me it's windy at the saddle. I get up there, sit down, retie my boots and get the heck out of that wind tunnel while my snot is flying everywhere; I don't even look around because I'm cold now and head back to camp, have some food and head back out to explore up the N. ridge. I work up the ridge to about 8400 ft and the wind is back, take a picture and explore a little to the east and down where I find a future potential camp. Meet this guy that is out scrambling when I start talking his ear off about climbing and he's not even a climber. I apologize. You meet the nicest people sometimes.Back at the TH my car had a flat; fortunately the spare worked.

great site photos

Anyone interested in heading to Mt. Jefferson Park? Leaving on July 4 for 3-4 nights; I'm 54 so I have to do this in stages instead of single day push. This trip is more to improve my snow/ice/c-rescue skills and re-con but if I feel good could turn into summit bid. If I don't get back to u this pm it's due to bad internet connection so call 503.577.8762 Also willing to go back up there again very soon after this trip. I'm in Salem, OR. I would appreciate someone with stronger skill/experience level if possible. I could also meet you up there.

Whitewater road is clear and open. Snow is starting to melt out around lakes in Jeff Park, snow was firm in early a.m. Summit is covered in rime ice; as viewed from the road. I did not summit; however, I met a guy named Forrest (Turinthelost @ CC) at 7400ft, from Corvallis Or, who said he made the summit via Jeff glacier last weekend. He said it was an epic. They got a late start and temp was high; also, they got a rope stuck and left it behind on bollard they rapped off of. He said he might post.

icy crust, who'd believe it? just shows u don't know 'till you go. 20 mile approach:burly.

yeh, i thought it might be , just getting anxious with all the aerobic f'in exercise I'van doing.

anyone want to check out copper spur? or is this nunsense?

Yeah that was us, we waited a bit and watched, lots of wet slides in the expected areas but I think Asgaard was reasonably safe. I knew it would be more solid than the Colchuck glacier route. We had great step kicking snow all the way up till near the top. We had a great camp up on the ridge with an awesome sunset and didn't bother putting on the snowshoes until the next day. I'll post some pics tomorrow. We just did the loop and hiked up Little Annapurna, foregoing Dragontail because of the avy/rockfall danger. wow, i'm really surprised that the snow was good for step kicking; Colchuck wasn't: how did u know that, or did you?

can't delete post; why?

I was amazed to see you guys(2 couples?)heading up there so late in the day with big packs on. did you use the snowshoes going up Asgard pass?

I was up there a week ago; big stuff coming down triple, snow was like whipped slurpee on Colchuck Glacier.

thanks.

I recently saw something the looked like a rough draft for BR etiquette and it looked like a rule etiquette book from hell; no one is going to read all this bull. climbers don't make rules, i sez ta me-sef, they break them. here's the only rule we need-The Golden Rule: do not put up a route here until you talk to a local; more than likely the route has already been done years ago [so buzz off bolt head].

another shitty subject: a book called "going higher and faster" or such and such said to toss the toxic stuff down a crevasse. a friend who use to work with OB did the same. I say if you pack the kids along you should pack em out esp on popular glaciers-which are probably most of the ones people are on-bag it and drop in heavy duty bag or nalgene bottle FCOL.

what are some of the clues a person from the states should look for to camp for free in Canada?

overheard 2 weeks ago at smith rawk: leader to group, "what's warmer, being totally soaked with your clothes on, or naked and wet?" Student, "naked and wet." Instructor, "that's right." What the hay? What about wind chill? Maybe that's why some people are found woundering around the mountain naked.

yes he made it to the top.

$300 clams utl incl

good gawd the men's room at c-4 always stank from the nasty shit climbers eat and drink IMHO. the valley is done with me.