stevetimetravlr

Excellent

Bring it on.

I don't know what the waterfalls are like, but the seeps coming out of the road banks near White Salmon are frozen and looking like there has to be some ice in them there hills. Its really flipping cold out, supposed to get down to 15 degrees tonight, 7 degrees tomorrow night. Break out the file because by the weekend get ready to rumble. I wonder how Kenny and Larry did climbing Hood today?

Did ya get my business card note I left under your wiper? Ozone was even frigid.

Yakima = not so good Wenatchee = great! Just don't live next to a orchard where they spray, that sucks.

Getting all aggro early season, nice!

Great TR! Way to carry on in the rain. It's gets sketchy when it's wet, that slab gets slippery. I don't think kenny was trying to be a douche, he's not into feminine products that much that I know of. But maybe. Theres just lots of little secrets to climbing that route efficiently, Kenny knows em all. But then he didn't get the name Lostcam for nothing, but it's better the Brokeback which he had for a while. Besides,anyone that calls themselves Toddipoo shouldn't mind when folks make fun of them, it only gets worse. Way to fire up YW with the incoming storm. That's living!

That's a shriveling report Ivan. OH8 was sunny and warm today. Not a breath of wind. the rock toasty and warm. If Just the easterlies would back off at Beacon for bit, it would be more enticing.

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Whoa, calling Kenny safe is like calling a horse dick "Tiny".

Yep, you're right. They are considered "really friggin hard" sickie

Great to hear you enjoyed the Right Gul line, and the Little Wing start. Pink, who posts here, has soloed Litttle Wing. Think about that next time you're leading that slippery section. I bet you wished you would have finished on that finger crack to the Grassy Ledges. it's much easier then it looks and eats the gear. Probably about Beacon 5.6 or 5.7 with good rests and no real crux move. Definitely not 5.9. Regarding the off width alternative to the second pitch, it's somewhat non-positive, but what I don't like about it is that it climbs a completely detached block hanging there that you are placing gear behind. It's probably not going anywhere soon but that was said of the freshly fallen huge blocks that have come off beneath it lower down. I've never climbed the dirty fingers alternative to the hand crack and off width as its always been so friggin dirty and overgrown. Maybe this fall on rap someone could give it a cleaning?

A day to live in infamy, the Plaidman has summited Zodiac. A false start on ZM, some rippers, some wounds, some rain, a snowstorm, some rest days, out of water but never out of courage, stuck haul lines, c3 in the dark, and a glorious solo topout the night before his 51st birthday. You will probably see the trip report here, but I think I will wait for the movie. His futures so bright he's got to wear shades. He just has to get himself and his gear off El Cap now. Rowdy Yates.

Great photos and TR~

Yes, Right Gull is still climbable to reach those anchors. That pillar is now a slightly leaning detached 60 foot pillar so tread on it gingerly although it's probably not going anywhere. I never go to those anchors atop that left pillar, no good reason to. From the top of the right pillar, place gear in the crack just to your right and go straight up there to the ledge, about 5.8 and good gear. Set up a gear belay there, you can sling a block as well. Next pitch your best option the leader goes left 15 feet and a step across to do the perfect 5.8 hand crack instead of the off-width overhead. The hand crack takes you up and then traverse left to the anchors at the top of Bluebird. From there the 3rd pitch face climbs the wide crack directly above to a ledge and perfect 5.8 finger crack, from which at the top of you can wander up to Grassy Ledges and belay from a tree. I recommend starting the climb on Little Wing and linking it all the way to the gear belay,about a 160 foot lead. For that lead and the rest, bring a set of stoppers and a double set of cams up to 2", and a 3" and 4" cam,and lots of slings.

I thought Beatard stood for Beacon retard, my middle name.

That's a great TR! Might have to make it up there and get on it, thank you.

What a great lead as Geoff powered the finishing headwall crack of Jensen's Ridge in the setting sun Saturday eve, spectacular watching from down near the tracks. Kyle and Ivan following had goldens auras against the backdrop wild sunset. Wish I had my camera. Thanks for the TR Kyle on whatever cracks those were I climbed,I was lichen it.

Ivan's frickin northern Cimmerian.

RAdnesss of the highest order!

13 laps and none the lighter in your loafers. Nice.

Way to solo that biatch, nice job.

Dastardly seems about the same difficulty as Godzilla at Index to me. Both 5.9 & stout, Ivan's favorite beverage. If Kevbone thinks the first pitch of Dastardly is 10a in the overall scheme of things, that's cool. Its certainly a glorious hand crack to fingers in the sky.

Splitter! Send it, Dastardly! yeah baby! Corner crack off of Big Ledge. Best linkup at Beacon with FreeforAll and Dods, same splitter crack the whole way, takes you to the trail. Probably the best multipitch 5.10 climb in the Portland area?

Two red 1 inch camalots tames the crux on Dod's. and then you get to do the amazing 5.9 Dastardly Crack for one pitch, and then a easy overgrown pitch to the trail. Can't beat it.