stevetimetravlr

Now thats rowdy! and bold.

I think thats the anchor Bill put in to rap into the area where the big rockfall came from couple years back.

Wow Wayne, that looks SWEET is right!!!

You are right Ivan that they got part of it right, but if you go left to that old anchor you miss all the good sections before the slab, some of the best climbing. The way MrGecko is talking about going is the way Anastasia goes, its dirty and chossy but a little easier, crappy gear. Denali Dave, you back in town yet? Or just building windmills in the sky?

You missed the line. You DO NOT go to those anchors. After clipping the second bolt, you head up and right pulling into a short corner and clipping a pin, again up and right pulling another overhang where you can stick a green camalot, then short wide crack and a mantle to the top of a pillar where you can reach left and place a purple camalot. From there its up to a fixed pin and then up to where you clip the bolt before mantling onto the slab and frictioning right to a pin in the slab. Stopper in the lip after the slab, pull over, and then a gray camalot protects the final moves to the belay where it joins with the corner. Ivan knows that, he just did the pitch with me 2 days ago!

I watched a guy lead that pitch yesterday, and he didn't pull the crux over the overhang, but went a little left and then straight up until he could cut back right. The lady with him followed no problem. not sure what its rated that way or if its more secure but it might offer a solution to the problem.

Maybe its time for the right side variation to get popular. Good luck soloing that tricky bastard, its got a loose chunk on it as well.

The puke patch is a nice touch. Then there's that loose block in the gully on last pitch of the corner just waiting to get pulled off. The whole section thru there is getting kind of loose as a goose.

Should be good times at the OK corral. I'll take a Corona, or whatever Kenny's having..

Yahoo! Russian crushin and DPS getting er done, getting everyone all stoked for action.

fast.

Rad to be looking down on Kevbone floating the 4th pitch of Warriors. You placed gear in different places then I do at times, very interesting.

It was a good choice to pick them up. Thank you Christopher. I was supposed to climb with Rick. He was sitting there in the parking lot 5 hours late. Decides he's to tired to climb and jumps in his rig and leaves. That's gonna leave a mark. Which left me forgetting I had the rope and helmet setting out.

I used to use that line allot in my younger days.

You should have broke out the big guns! Sounds like a great trip, albeit a painful one... wish I could have gone but I was off gallivanting...

That's fricking intense, great read, what an achievement.

Hey Brian, Not sure where you get the idea that Beacon climbers want everything to fall into obscurity? Kind of a strange thing to say. I think that the climbs you speak of have fallen into disrepair because for the last 15 years Beacon Rock has been closed half the year. Myself, I like to climb, not clean out the moss and weeds. I do it when I have to. I personally cleaned up the Flying Dutchman and Physic Wound last year' as well as Ground Zero, and also some cracks on the West face. I know Kyle put a tom of effort into some rarely done south face climbs, and many other people do what they can when they have the time. But let's face it, it's a loosing battle on many of our climbs due to the closure. The closure has also dismembered the climbing community of Beacon, hard to keep the stoke and comradery up when it's closed half the year. But people have been making a effort. Did you participate in the Volunteer days at Beacon where the climbing.community volunteers came out and did rock and trail work with the Rangers? Really successful and tons accomplished, even in the rain. Check out the amazing new platform at the base of the corner composed of enormous boulders the crew chain ganged in. I think we had at least 30+ people show. People are trying to do their best. As far as Sufficiently Breathless, why not ask the first ascentionist Scott Wollums if he doesn't mind if you replace the pins with bolts? That's the standard method. Maybe first go out and check the pins if you can replace them solidly or if it will take gear in that spot once you pull them, that to me seems the sensible thing to do, don't you think? Ask Arent his opinion, I imagine he will tell you the same thing. Everybody is stoked to climb, me included. If you want to clean Blood, Sweat, and Smears I am right there with you, on belay brother!

Thanks Chris! Good job. If we all work together out there, it's a bright future for Beacon climbing. Especially with all the new crop of enthusiastic people climbing at Beacon, along with the old regular crew. Stoked to climb!

Joe,. Pretty filthy mouth you got. You may have tricked Liza Lantz but you are not fooling anyone else with your false flag rhetoric and hate spew. I don't speak for anyone but me, but I know many people are finally getting to see your true colors. Sorry buddy, I will not STFU. I am not part of the BEacon Rock Climbers Association currently but I fully support their efforts and the 100 or so people who comprise what is a sincere attempt to work with the State Park. Your attempts to sabotage and derail any open discussion or conversation are well documented. In this thread alone over and over again, let alone all the behind the scene crap you pull. Yes, your Lisa Lantz approved bolts are blowing out in multiple places on the rock. However you are the last person I care to discuss the matter with. Pretty serious liability guaranteeing pins are good as well. As Nate stated previously, all are suspect. And NO, I do not believe your rope has been chopped 4 times at Dropzone, but it sure makes you sound like the victim to everyone now doesn't it?

Speaking of someone on the public Dole bob, why aren't you in class, or at least half way up Jensens?

I trust pins out there about as much as I trust the Lisa Lantz/ St. Of WA certified anchor bolts that have begun blowing out around the place. If clipping the retro anchors at Beacon, weight em and make sure they are not flexing, as there are several blown already in some bad locations. But then that's why the Park has so much time and money to micro mange these things that we shouldn't worry about it, it's all taken care of and out of our hands. Hold it, isn't that what they said when they started closing Beacon basically In its entirety to climbing, and artificially established a peregrine rookery on the south face, bringing in tons of bags of river stone onto Big Ledge, moving the peregrines from their long established rookery on the East face where no one ever climbs? And all so a biologist and his cronie could sit In their vehicles at the boat ramp and watch the birds thru binocs, instead of having to get off their and get out of their vehicle and actually do something? But hey, that's what our taxpayer dollars are for, and if these public servants want to squander our money and shut down resources and access, they know best. It sure makes the Rangers job allot easier....not. And it really helps with the parks revenue....again not. Unless you count the revenue for ticketing Kenny,for public indecency for being a dick a crime. That's not right!!! Hey, what else am I going to do when it's the middle of the night inChina and I can't sleep, besides get all long winded at cc.com. I'd rather be climbing. Hope you guys are getting some.

:tup: Shapp is right on the money. Keep this book by your bed and read it a little every night before you hit the sack.

Hey Brian, maybe just put your two bolts back in, it's a couple bolts. I've heard that tons of bolts have been chopped out there. The place IMO is kind of a nasty place to climb anyway, lots of broken glass, mossy and choosy. If I rcall correctly, I remember Jim or whoever it was saying they made a mistake in chopping your bolts back in the day if it's the same incident I am thinking of. I myself just climb, so I am not part of the ethics police unless it's something absurd, and I can't imagine that anyone really cares to much about the Dropzne/Farside. As far as community, I think this forum is NOW a great place to discuss things like this. What's say you all you Dropzone/Farside fans and first ascentionists? Where's that Bill Coe when you need him? Probably half way up Bacon right now, while I'm wallowing in the backwoods of Eastern Europe over a bad wifi connection. How was opening day at the Beaconwand? Let's all go climbing!!!!

Sorry, I'm not buying anyone chopped his rope once, let alone 4 times. Sounds like the same old typical accusatory psycho smoke screen bullshit.

That's what I'm talking!