stevetimetravlr

According to Blowhard, they need to fill out 15 pages in triplicate, get everyone and their grandmas permission from Olympia on down, kiss some ass, lick some ass, and get his special personal permission so he can personally deliver it to the Rangers and grace them with his presence and his oh so valued personal opinion of which most climbers would take a piss on.. Or they can post it here, see if the community approves and save someone's life. Like they do in Yosemite. Of course since Beacon Rock has 120 years of climbing history, and was saved from quarrying from the railroad by the early climbing community or it would not even exist today, it makes sense to ask people who have no idea or clue about protection or anchors, and who have also refused to update the climbing management plan so that fixed protection can be safe. The climbing community has bent over backwards on this, but the endless diatribes on this thread by one individual lambasting us all show that we are just a belligerent fuck the man fuck authority totslly deceptive and unruly group of professionals and business people who love to climb, but just dont meet the standards evidentially of the Park Service. Seems its going to take blood on their hands to get them to get off their ass. And put the boot to someone else's ass.

Scott Woolums, Bob McGown and Terry Yates, 1977. Sufficiently Breathless Why do you ask? Of course there's always the chance that someone may see this and suddenly experience an epiphany and claim the first ass sent.

Don't be fooled by the down talking. Shit loads of people have died on the south side route. It should be taken seriously. Safe send brother!!

July 15. Thereabouts.

4 thumbs up!

I don't need no stinking bolts...

Dang, you boys getting after it. Awesome. The oak, I feel your pain, Adventureering disease.

Not sure who chopped the bolt at Ozone, but its a bad fall now getting to the first bolt 30 feet up. Yes, its easy climbing but beginner climbers do it regularly.

Sad

Maybe instead of putting in a bolt anchor 45 feet up next to a tree, which is against all the long held traditions at Beacon Rock, you simply cut the slings like you've been doing over on the NW face? Seems like it would make a little more sense. Lisa Lantz is a big advocate of bolting Beacon Rock against the wishes of the climbing community? Wow, that's interesting.

It's best to remember there are always rattlesnakes around close by when you have kids, and to warm them about them. So they don't play in the bushes and are somewhat aware, especially hiking in and out on the trails.

If you're living in E-burg, it can't be all bad. Now you can just set back and rest on your laurels, which hopefully isn't to painful. Excited to see the book!

Excellent read and congrats on the route!

There used to be a old mine near the start of the trailhead to Lake Serene at the base of Index. It was so interesting. It had long passageways, vertical and horizontal shafts, angling shafts, multi level cave-ins, wood walk ways over deep pits, and an amazing room with a log with a rope hung from it on the ceiling that continued up what looks like a vent shaft, scary. Last time I was up there I tried to find it, but they have rerouted the whole parking area, and where I think the entrance used to be hidden, it is gone. Does anyone know, did they seal it up? It was a cool place to explore.

I come to cc.com to read Ivan's trip reports. and to try and put a positive swing on the crazy blanket closure at Beacn Rock. Hopefully sanity will prevail and it will be scaled down. Belay on!

It is 18 degrees outside right now in Hood River, White Salmon area, and the wind is howling easterly. I think under these conditions the ice will set up much faster then normal! Its supposed to get down to 10 degrees tonight, and not get above 20 degrees tomorrow. Friday might be the day! Anyone seem how the ice is forming at Starvation or Crown Point?

The loose block is beneath the small tree at the very top of Cruising, but 6 feet left. It is part of a placement you might use that is on the right side of the small drainage doing the traverse over to the base of the corner anchors from Snag Ledge. The loose block forms the right side of the placement. Its hard to see any evidence the block is loose until you touch it, so that's why it's dangerous. The block is huge, and will go down Cruising when it goes. I rocked it by hand, but was afraid it would take my fingers off if I rocked it any harder. Good day climbing and hanging at the ledge with Kevbone and Maggie and Adam. Only 10 more days and Beacon is closed for the next 6 months. What a bummer for the climbers, and what a bummer for the State Park forgoing all that parking revenue.

Very nice and dry indeed. Jills is even doable, but man its a small window of warmth.

I already got 2 laps on the corner this year, so better get the party started, or you'll be in rehab with Lindsay Lowhand. This post must mean you are back from Red Rocking.

The return of Kenny! Don't worry Kenny, you brag very well on yourself. Hey man, still lots of climbing at Beacon left to do this season, as evidenced by the climbing this week. yeah, once you gdo YW a few times and get it wired, it ain't no big deal. Only tricky section on trad gear is where the pins are on the 3rd pitch IMO. If you fall there, you are going to hit the ledge, I always feel a little uncertain on that section until I get the handhold up high. kevbone is a crusher, so he has no problem with it Im sure. Seems to me Little Wing has a higher sketch factor then YW, as Little Wing is rounded and slick. Denali Dave, you stuck up on a windmill somewhere? or do you need to have it surgically removed?

Yep, that Larry fellow always has something up his pant leg.

Temps well above freezing in the Gorge this morning.

In places only