stevetimetravlr

I left the rope fixed to top of 2 last night, and then came back this afternoon and did pitch 3, and then rapped and pulled the ropes. There was light rain, but that last pitch is so overhanging I didn't feel it until I topped out. What a stellar climb. I had a stopper blow as I was testing it turning the overhang, that gave me a start but other then that it went smoothly. All the white slings on those 3 anchors have turned black, sketchy.

So I am almost to the 2nd pitch anchor on Ground Zero, and I hear someone speaking to me, and look up and its Ivan free soloing and at the top of the 3rd pitch looking down at me. Holy snikes, the guy has balls of steel, thats a wild place to get to.

I think he is talking about that 30 foot 5.7 splitter finger crack that takes you up to the scramble to Grassy Ledges. I heard Ivan was raising a ruckus at da ledge last night, sorry I missed it, nice that things are getting back to normal at the Beaconwand.

Yes, Jim said those anchors are to some long gone aid route, weird hangers on them, and not on-route for YW. Don't traverse left to them but just keep going basically straight up for another 60 feet or so till you can setup a belay where it joins the corner.

Perhaps you speak of Seagull? left of Right Gull? To me its kind of confusing up there as to what routes are originally what, but the way I like to do it is Little Wing to Right Gul up to the top of the pillar but instead of stepping left to the anchors and the pin variation, go straight up off the first pillar instead. You can use good gear and its about 5.8.

Yep, that lightening last night really lit things up, I hauled ass off the top as fast as I could go. Great to see the old crew as well as so many new folks out there climbing on a regular basis, very cool. Now if only that Pink guy would come on back and show us how to climb.. and rename that friggin route of Ivans!

Heavens Gate looks like a blast, very cool.

Historic pins those. Jim O. says they were there before Young Warriors went up, a old aid route to that ledge, They are protected in that little niche, and stay dry year round so they are probably still great pins. For Young Warriors here is my gear list in sequence. Kind of fun putting it down on paper. Pitch 1: runners and draws, a few stoppers. Pitch 2: Climb up and clip a bolt with a sling Move up and left and place a BD 2 inch gold cam in the horizontal and sling it. Then move left to clip the bolt with a sling. To me it seems important to use slings for these moves to reduce the rope drag but it does make it more runout. Climb and then mantle to a rest, look to your left for a stopper placement in the choss. Gingerly tiptop up the flakes, and have a .3 BD small blue cam ready to place in the crack at the lip. Crack climb up and left to another rest and place a BD .5 purple cam Finish the crack, go right towards anchors and place a BD .4 grey cam to protect the second. Pitch 3 Small stoppers off the anchor for 3 or 4 placements, and then widens to cams and stoppers to the top of the corner. You end up under a overhang and have to move right past 2 pins and up a steep little face. I back up the bottom pin with a cam on a sling just for peace of mind. Higher above the pins is another placement for cam or stopper, its kind of awkward to make. Above it eases and medium and bigger camps can be used to protect the second as you go up and left to the ledge with the two old pins in the niche. Pitch 4 Stoppers and full set of cams. This pitch ia bolts and pins and placing gear. I sling it all except for the bolt at the base of the slab, there I use a draw. Also important to save a .4 BD grey cam or similar for the placement in the last section, there is a small dihedral where you are runout and its a good placement, two little slots in the rock in a row, its the top one. From there climb left and up to the ledge, hopefully still with some gear to build the anchor. Pitch 5 Traverse right and place a .4 BD grey cam or similar in a horizontal and then climb up and right and then back left to find a hidden pin you can finally clip. Follow bolts for a while and when you reach the hanging boulders I recommend not touching them or placing gear in them. Continue up to join with the last pitch of the SE Corner. Rock it~

Holy sheep shit! Way to get er done guys.

Experience is what makes you experienced. Way to persevere and take it on home. Great TR.

Beacon Rock Climbing Association and the local contingent of climbers welcomes all climbers to Beacon Rock. As of tomorrow the southeast, south, and southwest faces are open for climbing. Actually there has been no nest activity for weeks per Jim Opdyke(who has been volunteer observing the peregrines but whose observations are not utilized by the biologist), and none today. Seems like Beacon Rock should have been open weeks ago such as the other areas such as Index and Smith, etc. The biologist and his "monitor" have made no effort to verify whether there are birds or no birds all this time, and then appear to be using tactics trying to throw the opening date into question so folks don't show up to climb, such as waiting until the day before the opening to "check" the nest, even though the lack of activity should have been followed up on long ago. When Park closures are rappant, and each park has to support it own budget, it seems verystrange to be chasing people away from Beacon Rock State Park. But don't let all this political crap scare you away from Beacon folks. It is a geat place to climb, we watch out for and support the peregrines, and have the best crack climbing around! Come on out tomorrow, and buy your year round Discovery Pass from the Rangers for $35 and support Beacon Rock State Park. All the climbing beta you can handle, as the locals will be there and should be a fun day with many climbs going down. Welcome one and all!!

Beacon Rock Climbing Association and the local contingent of climbers welcomes all climbers to Beacon Rock. As of tomorrow the southeast, south, and southwest faces are open for climbing. Actually there has been no nest activity for weeks per Jim Opdyke(who has been volunteer observing the peregrines but whose observations are not utilized by the biologist), and none today. Seems like Beacon Rock should have been open weeks ago such as the other areas such as Index and Smith, etc. The biologist and his "monitor" have made no effort to verify whether there are birds or no birds all this time, and then appear to be using tactics trying to throw the opening date into question so folks don't show up to climb, such as waiting until the day before the opening to "check" the nest, even though the lack of activity should have been followed up on long ago. When Park closures are rappant, and each park has to support it own budget, it seems very strange to be chasing people away from Beacon Rock State Park. But don't let all this political crap scare you away from Beacon folks. It is a geat place to climb, we watch out for and support the peregrines, and have the best crack climbing around! Come on out tomorrow, and buy your year round Discovery Pass from the Rangers for $35 and support Beacon Rock State Park. All the climbing beta you can handle, as the locals will be there and should be a fun day with many climbs going down. Welcome one and all!!

They have made the decision already, but as usual you are making an effort to confuse the climbing community, and additionally come off as if you have some say in the matter. I also find it interesting how you are "supposedly" monitoring the peregrines for the biologist, but seem to think that the owl is a new appearance. He's been around at least 2 years that I know of. Maybe your eyesight is going, or maybe you aren't doing the job you want everyone to think you're doing.

Sounds like a fun time drinking some cold ones and meeting other climbers. Cool!

Hey Joe, Maybe you need to shut your piehole. Head Ranger Karl and Ranger Vivian both confirmed yesterday that Beacon Rock's south faces will be open for climbing as of the July 15th, so take your jibber jabber, double talk, and misleading bullshit somewhere else.

Beacon Rock's southeast, south, and southwest faces open Monday!!!! Get ready to rock boys, its gonna be rad.

Nice work and great photos!

Did the Snakecharmer magically appear in the Valley, and manage the ropes as Pat and Ivan climbed the Arrow in the heatwave? Or did it not? Did they get past the wide section with no big gear?

Great to meet ya Keenan. Keep the stoke up dude. Doing it while you're young is way better then trying to do it when you are old and creaky. Keep on firing!

None shall pass!

Really rocking

Way to get some!

Check out Ozone and/or Beacon when it opens July 15, and you will get to know a whole crew of folks that climb and ski.

Dry hump!

54 anchors had bolts spinning? Really, seriously...come on... Many of your "new" anchors have spinners on them. How many bolts had you placed in the past before you went on your rampage at Beacon? or was this a new thing?