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stevetimetravlr

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Everything posted by stevetimetravlr

  1. I like the dual colored ropes that change pattern at the midpoint like the Mammut Duodess. Much easier to find the midpoint in the dark or wierd conditions. Although the midpoint black mark is good also, it gets faint with age, and sometimes is tough to find or distinguish.
  2. Off white, you were supposed to deep water solo Bassomatic! Whats with the rope?? Here's how it should be done as far as I know.
  3. Ed Peters was very cool is right! What a nice guy, a class act. I remember he had a girlfriend Ginger that was in the basic climbing course with us. Really good people. AJ was a good guy also, loved to give me a hard time since he lived down the street from us.
  4. Man, those were the times. I remember climbing at the UW climbing rock with Jon Carpenter and Russ Erickson in later years. I didn't know Bob Williams took the Mounties course! He and I and Stan Holmes did a bunch of climbing before Bob moved onto Yosemite to become one of the last Stonemasters. I think the Mountaineers for all the critiism they take, and all the jokes at their expense, they do some really good things by getting allot of people trained and exposed to the great outdoors. Sure, I almost got killed by a group of them when they set off a avy on Chair that came inches from killing me and my partners, but thats another story, and also why you don't climb under other people when at all possible, that was the lesson I learned from that one.
  5. I was in the Mountaineers Basic/intermediate climbing courses in 75-77. Myself, and Phil Eckes from Bellevue, I was 15, he was 16. On the Nisqually Glacier training, as I recall we had regular climbing ropes,(goldline?) no manila at all as I recall. I came from a Boy Scout background where my troop was tops in the state at lashing togather monkey bridges, signal towers, etc and I knew the restrictions and limits of manila and no way would I lower into a crevasse on it and prusik back out. I vividly recall the experience, and the ropes were not an issue at all. Myself, I had personally bought one of the white MSR "kit" ropes that you took home and threw in the washer with a pack of RIT dye and so you got to choose your own color of rope. I chose red, and got a pink rope when it came out of the washer, great. Ed Peters and AJ Culver were two of the instructors at that time, great guys. AJ went on to be President of the Mountaineers in later years, and was also mayor of Issaquah for a few terms.
  6. Take em to the climbing gym and get them used to the whole rope and lowering thing in a friendly non scary enviroment and then take them outside.
  7. This must be what you're talking...
  8. Nice TR on Adams Sossity. But, the best glissade in the Cascades isn't Adams. Colchuck Peak way mo bettah!
  9. You can fix ropes and sleep at the base as a option.
  10. Thanks for the kudos Bill! I lead 5.9 real good when I got em wired, ha!! That was a good shot with the rock, I couldn't believe i had forgotten my helmet there, lots of rock been shedding off that crag lately. I think Joseph is on to something, with all the moisture and freeze/thaw cycles, we have a extraordinary amount of loose rocks this Spring it seems in the Gorge. Hey,bring it on out Ivan,I got 3 days on the rock this week and 1 day in the gym, pretty stoked with myself. The sun has been shining out my way, but looks like it is back to rain for the weekend. Bummer, just when I was getting all fired up..
  11. I'd enter the measuring contest, but I don't think you guys have a tape that long.
  12. Way to go after it Mito!
  13. This should answer your question...
  14. We bought some cold cereal, and it had some kind of moth infestation that came to our pantry, and we had moths flying around our house for weeks. They infiltrated all the other powdered food we had, so everything had to go. they drill right thru the box and plastic into the inards and lay their eggs. it was downright gnarly and disgusting.
  15. Hay, Make Spray while the sun shines.
  16. Holy snikes, I have a feeling that kid is going to send the Dawn Wall one day.
  17. Chop out the stump or let it rot out. A chainsaw might draw unwelcome attention, but your call. However, if you're a boulderer, I got a better solution for you. Its called the "Cordless Big Boy." Get one or similar since Cordless went under. No mo broken ankles or impact wounds. You'll need it one day for Midnight Lighting anyway. Best investment I ever made for $300, and it rides around in the back of my van, and 2 people and a few dogs can sleep on it as well.
  18. Wallstein, I know you're a animal, but when that second pitch chimney of TC is wet, I get a little gripped up in there its so slippery.
  19. Best link for current conditions http://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/timberlinebase/now/
  20. If you are belaying the second from above while they are free climbing, and they are unable to make the moves,just counter weight the rope you are belaying by sucking it up thru the grigri, and then weighting it. Repeat, until they are past the crux. This works best if you are well below the belay anchor and the rope runs up and then back down to you obviously. Basically just a couter haul.
  21. Here is a photo of the Orange Wall, everything to the right of the gully, and in your photo above you can find the same section of rock in the right of your photo. In my photo, The Ultima Thule Wall is the wall that throws the big shadow to the left of the gully in the left middle of this photo. Its hard to see and stays relatively hidden until you get up close and then it gets very cool and impressive. Anyone done any routes on it???
  22. How would I know, all I do is top rope. I'm a very good top roper however, and maybe I should write a book about it, me and Pink. Yes, I think that photo is of your first ascent crack in Northrup Canyon, what did you call it? I sure would like to hear about anyone that has climbed some of the routes on the Ultima Thule Wall, next to the Orange Wall. That thing looks like some of the best granite climbing in one crag I've seen, stellar looking lines. anyone been? I am sure it must be a little dirty due to its remote location but if that thing was in Leavenworth..
  23. I have new respect for Fairweather.
  24. Beacon appealing? What are you talking about? that place is terrifying, it don't take no gear, there is snakes and big spiders and peregrine falcons, and don't forget about the crazies.....oh man. yeah, I love having a rope gun, just point em in the right direction and squeeze the trigger as Im getting to old to climb jackshit.
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